Reply With QuoteWhat engine do you have?
Major Contributor
Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
How do I remove this?
What engine do you have?
Major Contributor
M30-Thanks!
nut'en.
Originally Posted by BMW-F1-FAN
Super Moderator
Since you've already got the head and the pan off, its
easiest now to take the timing cover off too... You also said you have the crank pully already off too...I'd pull the timing cover and then remove the seal, you can inspect the guides, tensioner and chain at the same time..
Otherwise if you prefer to remove it in place you just pry it out being careful not to scratch the crank..I use a screwdriver that has a bend in the end of it for a seal removal tool. Sometimes you have to punch a hole through the middle of the seal and then pry it out... Watch the crank surface though...
Last edited by Bill R.; 03-30-2004 at 02:43 PM.
Grand Master
It's all about the front crank nut. 32mm if I recall, about 325 ft lbs of torque. To remove mine, we needed to use a serious twin hammer impact wrench. Motor was out of the car. Not sure what sort of clearance you have, might want to look at that.
If you do get the nut off, I'd consider replacing all the timing chain components at the same time:
- guide rail
- tensioner rail
- lower and upper chain sprocket
- chain
You'll never have another chance to do it unless you get in there again. Parts are cheap vs. the effort.
Cheers!
Jeff
Bellevue WA
90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy
Super Moderator
Jeff, his earlier post said he already had the crank nut off..
Third one down here
Grand Master
well..color me stupid!
Bellevue WA
90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy
Major Contributor
Thanks Bill and Jeff. m=>
Yeah, the lower timing chain cover was the first thing I took off, followed by the oil pump and now need to remove the oil pan. My thoughts exactly about replacing the upper and lower sprockets and the chain. The guide rail got bitten off when the head was removed--one of those common mistakes for the first time DIYer or maybe it was just The Nader Factor. About the screwdriver with the bent end, is it bent like an "L" shape or a "J-like" fish hook? (The use of Arial font makes the lower leg of the L and J look the same.)
Grand Master
So Hector, just how did you remove the crank nut? I'm sure that will be useful information for others....
BTW, I have graduated from the Bill R. Univerity of Lower Sprocket Replacement. I'd be happy to outline what I did to pull/re-install that little sucker.
Jeff
Bellevue WA
90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy
Major Contributor
I used a breaker bar & cheater bar...
and it wasn't actually that bad breaking that mamajama loose. I'm hoping to post some pics later. I also rigged up a home-made torque wrench for when it comes time to put the hub and nut back on the crankshaft. Hopefully, I'll have pics of that too. It beats spending $125+ on a good craftsman torque wrench covering that torque range.
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