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Thread: No heat from driver side

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    121

    Default No heat from driver side

    Hi all,
    I can't get any heat out of the divers side. The passenger side is ok. The electric water pump runs when the temp dial is truned to heat but only one of the lines to the heater core (presumably the passenger heater core) gets hot. I guess there is either an electical fault or a fault with the heater valve.

    Does anyone know the procedure to hotwire the valve to open? I can see there is a connector of sorts on the valve/pump block but don't want to just start probing with 12v unitl I can confirm what I should be doing.

    Are there any other common heater failures to look for?

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    9,250

    Default

    Just unplug the connector from the heater valves. 3-pin plug. Without power the valves should be fully open.
    If that does not work: hit the valve block with a hammer, sometimes they get lose again.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    121

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun
    Just unplug the connector from the heater valves. 3-pin plug. Without power the valves should be fully open.
    If that does not work: hit the valve block with a hammer, sometimes they get lose again.
    Cheers mate, will try that. I never knew they were supposed to fail open. I suspect one of mine is stuck.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    Default a bit more in detail

    there are several common problems, from most to least common:

    1 - Failure of the heater valve assembly

    2 - Failure of the solder joints of the two power resistors on the PC Board inside the IHKA Control Module.

    3 - Failure of the microswitch inside control head. This is the one on the drivers' side thumb wheel that clicks when you move the wheel to the full cold position.

    Some background on how the system works ... by default without any power the heater valves are open. So if you are in Norway in the winter and the system fails, you will have heat and will not freeze to death. How thoughtful.

    There are three pins on the heater valves. The middle one should have +12 volts all the time with the key on or engine running. It is not always enough to measure the voltage alone. This signal comes through the microswitch in 3 above. It is possible that a dirty switch could still show 12 volts with no current flow under load. Better to measure the current draw, should be around 2-3 amps if I recall correctly.

    You can also check the continuity of the switch, remove the control panel. There is a small 2 pin connector on the back. There should be close to zero ohms in all but the hottest setting. Full heat is achieved by removing the +12 volts from the heater valves.

    The ground signal(s) to close the heater valves comes through the two resistors (40 ohms or so if I remember correctly) in the IHKA control unit. Due to the high current and related heat, the solder joints fail. Many times resoldering these connections will solve the problem. However, I have had some where I've had to replace the control units.

    To test the heater valves, you can try (at your own risk all usual disclaimers apply) removing the connector and jumping +12v to the middle pin, and grounding the other two pins with a jumper. (might want to check the resistance first, if either of the solenoids is shorted this is not a good idea. Resistance should be +/- 13 ohms or so).

    If the heater valves are working ok, then doing this should shut the heat off.

    If you want to clean them, look at these pics I posted
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/111837/

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    Default

    they also clog with radiator coolant debrese, if the tapping trick doesnt work you can rebuild yours or get a new control unit.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle, Washington USA
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Hey, while were on the subject... I have a similar problem. The heater in mine works great up front but never blows warm air out of the back vent, it's always ambient air to the back seat. Not very nice when you have a 14mo old and it's cold in the morning. Any feedback... Not really in a hurry for this one thanks to the 85degree days were haveing over here right now...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    Default

    The back vent in the middle is never blowing hot air.
    For that you have the 2 channels under each front seat.
    Look here, that is from the E32 but fits. Blue=ambient, red=heated, blue/red=mixed
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/cent...stribution.jpg
    Just close the center vent in the rear when it is too cold.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle, Washington USA
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    Default

    Oh, OK, I'm smart... Thanks bro...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Wellington,New Zealand
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    Default

    in the winter closethe rear vent
    Gone but not forgotten

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    121

    Default

    Appreciate the response guys.

    shogun proves to be a wealth of information yet again! Mucho gracias.

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