Steering / Suspension Suggestions

[pgrindstaff]

I have looked over the board and found some pretty useful information regarding my question but would like your input.

Seeing as my car is about 12 years old I think it is time to replace the suspension and steering components. When I turn the wheel all the way left or right I hear a grinding noise, not sure what it is but I doubt its good. Also, whenever I hit a speed bump or similar I hear a sort thud or pop but am not sure if it's from the front or rear.

Anyway, I was going through Bavauto's site and choose the parts I think I need but I am unsure of their quality and if I have everything I need to do this right. Here is a list of what I am planning to order:

1. 31 12 1 141097P Bavarian Autosport Performance Upper Control Arm - Left - with rubber bushing x 1
2. 31 12 1 141098P Bavarian Autosport Performance Upper Control Arm - Right -with rubber bushing x 1
3. ASCB2 Bavarian Autosport Performance Upper Control Arm Bushing x2
4. P36 3019 Bilstein Front Shock - Sport x 2
5. B46 1486 Bilstein Rear Shock - Sport x 2
6. 20 13 1 40 Eibach Pro-Kit Springs - Set of 4 x 1
7. 31 12 1 139 991 Lower Control Arm - Left x 1
8. 31 12 1 139 992 Lower Control Arm - Right

Few questions about the above list. Are the Bavauto control arms any good? If not, what should I get instead. And I won't be racing or anything so should I go with the sport shocks or with the heavy duty shocks?

Thank you for your input, it is much appreciated

[632 Regal]

skip the bilsteins unless you like a real sporty ride (ie: harsh) The Eibachs are a good spring. Save yourself a lot of work and order Lemforder front suspension parts from BMAparts.com. Bavauto sells substandard parts like the ones you can get on Ebay but for a lot more money.

Also the clunk could be the sway bar links, order a couple of them (lemforder) cause the old ones might get all hacked up trying to remove them. The clunk could also be the strut collars but you will tighten the new ones and that will go away.

I replaced the Bilsteins with Sachs and like the ride a lot more. Both the Billie sport and HD use the same harsh valving.

Just my 2c

[BillionPa]

um, get lemforder upper control arms with 750i bushings pressed, the bav balljoints are meh.

im doing my entire suspension RIGHT NOW and have a massive list (about 10 times yours) of all the crap needed to do it. I am using the bilstein HD/eibach combo

for lower control arms get lemforder aluminum ones.
you will also need spring pads upper and lower, new strut and shock mounts.

go for new wheel bearing kits in the front as well, that may be causing your noises.

lemforder sway bar links (upgrade time for the swaybars?)

they are hard to find but you need them, the paper washers that go between the body and the shock mounts.

rear subframe mounts, rear bump stops, rear dogbones (pitman arms)
i also got new rear mounting bolts for the shock to the trailing arm.

you may also want to replace the steering links at the same time, so that you dont have to do it later. a lowered suspension will put more strain on them.

specifically center left and right tie rods, and the idler arm

while you are down there change the diff fluid, power steering fluid, bleed the brakes, etc.

I am replacing almost the entire braking system while doing the suspension, because my brakes were shot and they are all connected to eachother.

you will also need a crap load of tools to complete the job

[Alexlind123]

skip the bilsteins unless you like a real sporty ride (ie: harsh) The Eibachs are a good spring. Save yourself a lot of work and order Lemforder front suspension parts from BMAparts.com. Bavauto sells substandard parts like the ones you can get on Ebay but for a lot more money.

Also the clunk could be the sway bar links, order a couple of them (lemforder) cause the old ones might get all hacked up trying to remove them. The clunk could also be the strut collars but you will tighten the new ones and that will go away.

I replaced the Bilsteins with Sachs and like the ride a lot more. Both the Billie sport and HD use the same harsh valving.

Just my 2c

Bilstein heavy duty rather than sport will give the cushier ride that sachs offer as well.

[632 Regal]

The Bilsteins valving is the same on both mentions, why aluminum control arms? Not really needed, very very minute.

Spring pads are a cood Idea, get the 9mm upper pads since you have the V8.

Bearings at this point is futile.

Paper washers? Think im missin them.

Worry bout the steering stuff when you take it in for an alignment and have it inspected before aligning it, then you know what you'll need to do.

The rear dogbones could be replaced, these always look like they went through a couple wars.

Now I know what the billion means in billionpa's name, he is rich...lol
N.O.

um, get lemforder upper control arms with 750i bushings pressed, the bav balljoints are meh.

im doing my entire suspension RIGHT NOW and have a massive list (about 10 times yours) of all the crap needed to do it. I am using the bilstein HD/eibach combo

for lower control arms get lemforder aluminum ones.
you will also need spring pads upper and lower, new strut and shock mounts.

go for new wheel bearing kits in the front as well, that may be causing your noises.

lemforder sway bar links (upgrade time for the swaybars?)

they are hard to find but you need them, the paper washers that go between the body and the shock mounts.

rear subframe mounts, rear bump stops, rear dogbones (pitman arms)
i also got new rear mounting bolts for the shock to the trailing arm.

you may also want to replace the steering links at the same time, so that you dont have to do it later. a lowered suspension will put more strain on them.

specifically center left and right tie rods, and the idler arm

while you are down there change the diff fluid, power steering fluid, bleed the brakes, etc.

I am replacing almost the entire braking system while doing the suspension, because my brakes were shot and they are all connected to eachother.

you will also need a crap load of tools to complete the job

[PeterInSTL]

bilstein touring shocks?

[Speeder 553]

I have looked over the board and found some pretty useful information regarding my question but would like your input.

Seeing as my car is about 12 years old I think it is time to replace the suspension and steering components. When I turn the wheel all the way left or right I hear a grinding noise, not sure what it is but I doubt its good. Also, whenever I hit a speed bump or similar I hear a sort thud or pop but am not sure if it's from the front or rear.

Anyway, I was going through Bavauto's site and choose the parts I think I need but I am unsure of their quality and if I have everything I need to do this right. Here is a list of what I am planning to order:

1. 31 12 1 141097P Bavarian Autosport Performance Upper Control Arm - Left - with rubber bushing x 1
2. 31 12 1 141098P Bavarian Autosport Performance Upper Control Arm - Right -with rubber bushing x 1
3. ASCB2 Bavarian Autosport Performance Upper Control Arm Bushing x2
4. P36 3019 Bilstein Front Shock - Sport x 2
5. B46 1486 Bilstein Rear Shock - Sport x 2
6. 20 13 1 40 Eibach Pro-Kit Springs - Set of 4 x 1
7. 31 12 1 139 991 Lower Control Arm - Left x 1
8. 31 12 1 139 992 Lower Control Arm - Right

Few questions about the above list. Are the Bavauto control arms any good? If not, what should I get instead. And I won't be racing or anything so should I go with the sport shocks or with the heavy duty shocks?

Thank you for your input, it is much appreciated

As Regal said, get the OEM Control Arms. I got the Lendforder's with 750il bushings and they are solid performers. If you looking for shocks, I had old Bilsteins (super harsh) and replaced them with Koni Sports with Eibach Pro-Kit Springs and can say that my ride feels awesome. Super smooth with tons of control. Add some VR rated tires and you've got some sweet ride man.

[onewhippedpuppy]

If you have suspension noises, you can plan on your tie rods being shot too, so add two tie rods and a center link to your list, along with the sway bar links. My idler arm and pitman arm seemed fine, so I didn't mess with those. Spring pads are a good idea if you're changing the springs, go with 3mm ones for an extra 1/4 of drop if you like. I have Bilsteins with the stock 540 sport springs and like the ride, but to each his own.

As odd as it sounds, the rear can contribute to the front's problems, so you should address it as well. New dogbones, sway bar links, and Racing King subframe reinforcing bushings made a huge difference, and the stuff is cheap. Call BMA for prices, they don't list much on their website, and it's cheaper over the phone. Plus, Patrick or Yves are great at answering questions. Lemforder is the best, but not cheap. BMA is really pushing Flennor, it's a German company that is supposed to compare to Lemforder in quality for quite a bit less. I used Flennor for most of my stuff and the quality seemed good, but I've only put 1k or so on them. Don't be afraid to DIY, you just need a decent variety of metric wrenches and sockets, tie rod seperator, BFH, ramps/jack, and a few other oddball things. I did it all, and it wasn't that bad.

[jrobbo]

Consider replaceing the front spring isolators with the same items from the E30. They are a direct replacement, but the E34 units are 9mm think, and the E30 units are 3mm thick, so it will drop the front of the car by 6mm. The only cost a few $$.

Regards

John