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Thread: Brake Fluid Flush.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Hockinson, Washington
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    Default Brake Fluid Flush.

    My brake pedal went to the floor today, on the last stop before my house. A pump of the pedal firmed it up on the driveway. After i parked, i opened the reservoir and looked at the fluid...i would post a picture but i wouldnt want to traumatize any small children or otherwise (think tomato soup with a little squirt of chocolate syrup). Needless to say, the system will be completely flushed before i drive the car again.

    Is there anything i should look out for? Are the symptoms indicative of more serious underlying problems? Can i perform inspections to rule out what might have caused the brake fluid to become so bad?
    Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
    southwest WA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Brisbane Australia
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    Default

    if your able to pump it up it just sounds like you have a CRAPLOAD of air in the system, hopefully and by the sounds of the dirty fluid it just needs to be flushed. just make sure you get all of the dirty fluid out of there. got sticky brakes on my e28 and My father and I have to pull pistons out and do some cleaning, hopefully the crap in the brake system hasn't affected the pistons too much. but unfortunately all you can do is suck it and see. just try the least expensive fix first and work your way to the solution. i'd say you just need to change the brake fluid and bleed it good by the sounds of it

    Germans: Why can't they make everything?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    811

    Default

    You need a master cylinder. This is the first warning that a failing master cylinder gives before total failure.

    Ok, that being said, verify the proper operation of the calipers, sometimes a claiper will stick from not properly lubing the slides. when the pad wears down enough, the caliper will slide abrubtly into a new position, causing the brake pedal to fall to the floor.

    But back to my first point, You description is indicates a bad master cylinder. Your car has given you fair warning, ignore it at your own risk.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joshua43214
    You need a master cylinder. This is the first warning that a failing master cylinder gives before total failure.

    Ok, that being said, verify the proper operation of the calipers, sometimes a claiper will stick from not properly lubing the slides. when the pad wears down enough, the caliper will slide abrubtly into a new position, causing the brake pedal to fall to the floor.

    But back to my first point, You description is indicates a bad master cylinder. Your car has given you fair warning, ignore it at your own risk.
    The fluid is so bad tho...does a bad master cylinder cause the fluid to go bad?
    Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
    southwest WA

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Honolulu
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    3,105

    Default Chicken & egg question

    bad fluid can lead to premature failure of the brake system.

    Bad/failing parts can show up in the fluid as the debrie is suspended in the fluid.

    If the pedal went to the floor you have more then a fluid issue, sounds more like master, leak, air, caliper or combo.


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  6. #6
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    Mar 2005
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    Default

    yes, there is alot of air in the system. There must be water as well, because of the rust color. While those are problems in themselves, they had to have been caused by something.
    Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
    southwest WA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    NJ
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    1,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alexlind123
    yes, there is alot of air in the system. There must be water as well, because of the rust color. While those are problems in themselves, they had to have been caused by something.
    What type of fluid was in the tank originally?? Maybe you just had regular brake fluid which is a maroonish/red color 95% of the time and that's why the color looks so off.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    225

    Default Hydraulic Sale!

    If you need a new master cylinder, Ultimate Garage is closing out on all hydraulics:

    http://www.ultimategarage.com/bmwhyd...sale-1105.html

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
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    Default

    Whilst on this topic...

    How exactly is a brake system flush performed??

    A mate wants it done on his R32 GTR Skyline... Can you buy a special cleaning fluid to run thru the system to flush out crap, or is it just "Feed new fluid in, and bleed the calipers til it runs clean??

    Gone but NEVER forgotten. :'(

    And then...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    the master cylinder has 2 pistons in it, with a primary seal at the forward each. at rest, just forward of each seal is a hole that allows fluid to enter the chamber.This hole is called a compensating port. if the seal is bad, fluid will leak past it and be forced up the compensting port. this spray of fluid agitates the fluid and allows air bubble to form in the resavoir. continued aggitation will cause the fluid to take on a milky or sickly appearance. when the pedal is released, the pistons move back via spring pressure and the bubbly air is drawn into the chamber.

    This is how air enters a brake system at the master cylinder. it is the only common cause of outside air entering the system. There are other causes, but they are uncommon.

    Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. when you overheat the brakes, the water will boil inside the system causing it to cavitate. these air pockets then compress when you aply the brakes. this compression and loss of braking power is called fade. After the fluid cools down, the steam then condenses back into liquid and the brakes function normaly.

    Moisture in the system will corrode the ferrouse parts of the system, the corrosion will then accelerate wear on the seals. The seals in the master cylinder are loaded against the cylinder, they will wear over time regardless of the care taken. Replacing the fluid will prolong the life of the hydrolics many times over.

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