Spring cleaning

[NovceGuru]

So here's the deal. I'm just going to assume my car hasn't had much maintenance since it crossed 100k. The previous owner owns a "quicklube" My car was the loaner for when he ****ed up their car for any particular reason. It wasn't very well respected. My vanity mirrors won't open in the winter because the gum somebody shoved in them has them frozen. (they work great after sitting in a hot parking lot in the summer!) When I first bought it there was some odd hard substance along the bottom on the rear view mirror. I thought it was glue to hold the mirror or something, except it smelled minty....(#@$ing gum. Anyway, the guy said he had the car for sale because nobody respected it. Well after taking it to the car wash yesterday (I had been putting it off for quite a while...shameshame )I realized again what a nice looking car it is. So anyway, I want to compile a list of things to do to it since the warmer months are on their way. I'm going to try to do things in order of importance.

1. What all fluids/filters should I change? I have the green coolant but it isn't even 6 months old from doing my timing chain. About 3-4 quarts of brownish (if I recall correctly) tranny fluid came out when we broke the coolant lines doing the chain. I squeezed in some fresh synthetic. I (I hope that wasn't bad) I think a drain/filter replacement is in order. I assume doing a brake system flush would be a good idea? I replaced my front calipers when I got the car since they froze up on the way home from buying it.

2. The front end of my car is getting extremely noisy when I come down my gravel driveway or fail to outmaneuver #$(#$ing potholes. My steering wheel doesn't bounce back and forth but I can tell my front tires do. From reading other posts and Bruno’s site I assume these are control arms? I like to get one of those kits (not fcq or whatever) and replace everything. I replaced the center tie rod/drag link from AutoZone (unknowing of shitty parts) when I first got it, I remember in size it compared to the one that was on there as far as thickness and the ball joints on the end looked nicely sized.

3. The bottoms of my doors are starting to rust. The back corner of the front doors and back corner of the drivers passenger door. I think the best thing to do is buy all new trim, rip off the old, sandblast/rust convert/prime/paint from the middle (not sure of the name) down? My next question is where’s a good place to buy paint? I have a pretty nice pro paint gun I picked up from some moron at a garage sale. I checked the local car quest and they can get me everything I need with a quart of paint for like 150ish...I think that’s DuPont paint.

4. My door seals on the back doors have stretched away. (the ones on the door frame, not the door) I have cut them on the bottom underneath the sill/cover to push them back on but I still have to periodically do this. You think I could use some goop and glue them down? I'm not sure how pricey it is to replace them.

5. From what I can tell my hydraulic lifters chatter like on a cold start. My dad has suggested I install a button to break the fuel pump relay, crank the car for a few seconds to let the oil pressure come up then release the button so the car starts with decent pressure. We've also considered http://www.streetortrack.com/preoilerunits.asp

6. I don't think there is a #6 for now. If you read down this far i'm pretty impressed. Any help/suggestions/criticisms is appreciated, thanks!

NovceGuru


--------------------------
So far we've got:

• Change sparkplugs
• Detail the krap out of
• change all fluids

[NovceGuru]

O Just remember a microfilter change is probably in order....hopefully get rid of that musty smell. If you guys think of other things please post!

NovceGuru

[NovceGuru]

IMO, your engine has engine sludge causing the noise on a cold start. Mine used to do it until I stated using synthetic oil. I went to Mobil 1 0w40 and after a few changes most of the cold start noise went away. I have recently gone the route of Auto-rx engine cleaning to gently clean out sludge over several thousand miles. Just want to make sure.

As for the rest of your issues, others will have suggestions. Also look in the archives. I think you will find the car will seem much more responsive after maintenance is bought up to specs. BTW, change the plugs and valve cover gasket to ensure no oil arounf your plugs and coils.

Change every fluid on your car you can find, including the power steering fluid and brake fluid. As for me I went to synthetic on all lubricants. However, be careful on your transmission. Some feel that older 525i tranys without regular fluid/filter changes are subject to failure upon flushing and changing oil. MY opinion, do not flush JUST change oil/ trany filters every 30,000 miles.

BTW, get all the records form teh PO you can.

Good luck!

I've been running synth since I bought it...when I did the timing chain everything was super clean under the valve covers and throughout the engine, it had recieved regular oil changes AFAIK. Changing the plugs is a good idea, I forgot to add that one to my list, thanks!

NovceGuru

[angrypancake]

it sounds like though it was neglected, the interior took the brunt of the ****. you should take it to a good detailer and get the works done, inside and out. they do an amazing job of getting gum, etc, shampooing the carpets and making it look damn good. or you could set aside a nice day, pull the seats out, and do it yourself. it wont make the engine run any better, but you'll sure feel better.

[NovceGuru]

it sounds like though it was neglected, the interior took the brunt of the ****. you should take it to a good detailer and get the works done, inside and out. they do an amazing job of getting gum, etc, shampooing the carpets and making it look damn good. or you could set aside a nice day, pull the seats out, and do it yourself. it wont make the engine run any better, but you'll sure feel better.

I might just take an entire weekend and do it, I don't know of any respectable detailers within 25 miles around here, thanks for the input.

NovceGuru

[Russell]

I put this is the 'dead" post, Thought I would redo.

IMO, your engine has engine sludge causing the noise on a cold start. Mine used to do it until I stated using synthetic oil. I went to Mobil 1 0w40 and after a few changes most of the cold start noise went away. I have recently gone the route of Auto-rx engine cleaning to gently clean out sludge over several thousand miles. Just want to make sure.

As for the rest of your issues, others will have suggestions. Also look in the archives. I think you will find the car will seem much more responsive after maintenance is bought up to specs. BTW, change the plugs and valve cover gasket to ensure no oil arounf your plugs and coils.

Change every fluid on your car you can find, including the power steering fluid and brake fluid. As for me I went to synthetic on all lubricants. However, be careful on your transmission. Some feel that older 525i tranys without regular fluid/filter changes are subject to failure upon flushing and changing oil. MY opinion, do not flush JUST change oil/ trany filters every 30,000 miles.

BTW, get all the records form teh PO you can.

Good luck!

So here's the deal. I'm just going to assume my car hasn't had much maintenance since it crossed 100k. The previous owner owns a "quicklube" My car was the loaner for when he ****ed up their car for any particular reason. It wasn't very well respected. My vanity mirrors won't open in the winter because the gum somebody shoved in them has them frozen. (they work great after sitting in a hot parking lot in the summer!) When I first bought it there was some odd hard substance along the bottom on the rear view mirror. I thought it was glue to hold the mirror or something, except it smelled minty....(#@$ing gum. Anyway, the guy said he had the car for sale because nobody respected it. Well after taking it to the car wash yesterday (I had been putting it off for quite a while...shameshame )I realized again what a nice looking car it is. So anyway, I want to compile a list of things to do to it since the warmer months are on their way. I'm going to try to do things in order of importance.

1. What all fluids/filters should I change? I have the green coolant but it isn't even 6 months old from doing my timing chain. About 3-4 quarts of brownish (if I recall correctly) tranny fluid came out when we broke the coolant lines doing the chain. I squeezed in some fresh synthetic. I (I hope that wasn't bad) I think a drain/filter replacement is in order. I assume doing a brake system flush would be a good idea? I replaced my front calipers when I got the car since they froze up on the way home from buying it.

2. The front end of my car is getting extremely noisy when I come down my gravel driveway or fail to outmaneuver #$(#$ing potholes. My steering wheel doesn't bounce back and forth but I can tell my front tires do. From reading other posts and Bruno’s site I assume these are control arms? I like to get one of those kits (not fcq or whatever) and replace everything. I replaced the center tie rod/drag link from AutoZone (unknowing of shitty parts) when I first got it, I remember in size it compared to the one that was on there as far as thickness and the ball joints on the end looked nicely sized.

3. The bottoms of my doors are starting to rust. The back corner of the front doors and back corner of the drivers passenger door. I think the best thing to do is buy all new trim, rip off the old, sandblast/rust convert/prime/paint from the middle (not sure of the name) down? My next question is where’s a good place to buy paint? I have a pretty nice pro paint gun I picked up from some moron at a garage sale. I checked the local car quest and they can get me everything I need with a quart of paint for like 150ish...I think that’s DuPont paint.

4. My door seals on the back doors have stretched away. (the ones on the door frame, not the door) I have cut them on the bottom underneath the sill/cover to push them back on but I still have to periodically do this. You think I could use some goop and glue them down? I'm not sure how pricey it is to replace them.

5. From what I can tell my hydraulic lifters chatter like on a cold start. My dad has suggested I install a button to break the fuel pump relay, crank the car for a few seconds to let the oil pressure come up then release the button so the car starts with decent pressure. We've also considered http://www.streetortrack.com/preoilerunits.asp

6. I don't think there is a #6 for now. If you read down this far i'm pretty impressed. Any help/suggestions/criticisms is appreciated, thanks!

NovceGuru


--------------------------
So far we've got:

• Change sparkplugs
• Detail the krap out of
• change all fluids

[Russell]

Even with synthetic oil since you bought it, I suspect you have a sludge or thick (read incorrect) oil issue, especially in small spaces. May be wrong oil. Also check the archives and others about vanos rattle. This could be the problem. I think your car has vanos? No sure?

Check this site out as well as BOBISTHE OILGUy forum. IMO Auto-RX stuff works. It is not an engine flush. It take multiple oil/filter changes over thousands of miles.

I no longer have a rattle on the first cold start of the day in the winter. BTW, the rattle was not as prominant in summer weather. It is non existant now. Mine was maintained by the book by the dealer by the PO and it still had junk in the engine.

http://www.auto-rx.com/

I've been running synth since I bought it...when I did the timing chain everything was super clean under the valve covers and throughout the engine, it had recieved regular oil changes AFAIK. Changing the plugs is a good idea, I forgot to add that one to my list, thanks!

NovceGuru

[NovceGuru]

russell...maybe, i'm always leary about oil/fuel additives....

What about changing my fuel filter? My car sat for about a year before I came along and snatched it up. Thanks


NovceGuru

[Russell]

Forgot about that one. Should be changed about every 30,000 miles. I did mine when I bought my car (at 72,000 miles) just to be sure. The records I got on the car from several dealers and the PO indicated it had never been changed.
Could not tell any difference in the way the car runs, except my mechanic noted the dirty fuel that ran out of the old filter which means that it was doing its job,

[KenB]

For your door seals , I've used 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on a portion of my driver door seal. It was pulled away from the frame from rubbing against it getting in and out of the car. It works very well and is cheap, I got it at Pep Boys for about $4.00.

Good luck.