GO FISHING, use SLABSAUCE Fishing Attractant
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 35

Thread: Its final - I cannot get crank bolt off

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    5,403

    Default Its final - I cannot get crank bolt off

    I used a piece of 1/4" steel flat bar, drilled a hole in there, grabbed a crank pulley bolt, threaded it thru and used the floor as a stop. Turned the bolt counter clock wise with 4' breaker bar, SNAP goes the bolt in the crank pulley end. Thinking they aren't bolts rated for that kind of force, I move to the flywheel end... put one in so that it stops against the engine stand/bar, SNAP goes that bolt too.


    Wtf do I do now.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default

    Big D says it was 600 ft lbs and he had to use 2 hands so whats your problem?
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

    Default

    3/4" impact gun, 3/4" socket.

    Remount the flywheel if it's not still in place, fab up a copy of the factory tool (picture should be in TIS -- check group 11, then should be somewhere around 031) or use the real mccoy. Edit: actually, the picture probably isn't in TIS -- can snap a few and give dimensions if I go in tomorrow. Or, find a ring gear with holes through it, find a large brass drift that'll fit through one of those holes and snug up against the block (assume you've got the pan off). Make sure it's a brass drift.

    It'll be off in two seconds that way...do it all the time.

    For torquing? 5 foot long 3/4" torque wrench

    best, whit
    Last edited by Kalevera; 03-25-2006 at 01:14 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    5,403

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lowell
    3/4" impact gun, 3/4" socket.

    Remount the flywheel if it's not still in place, fab up a copy of the factory tool (picture should be in TIS -- check group 11, then should be somewhere around 031) or use the real mccoy. Edit: actually, the picture probably isn't in TIS -- can snap a few and give dimensions if I go in tomorrow. Or, find a ring gear with holes through it, find a large brass drift that'll fit through one of those holes and snug up against the block (assume you've got the pan off). Make sure it's a brass drift.

    It'll be off in two seconds that way...do it all the time.

    For torquing? 5 foot long 3/4" torque wrench

    best, whit

    Pics of any of this?

    I have it on an engine stand, so flywheel won't fit

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default

    all you need is a big D...lol, I miss that guy.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    5,403

    Default

    a big what

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Honolulu
    Posts
    3,105

    Default A few feet of chain bolted

    to the crank and block will hold it tight while you break it free.


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    404

    Default

    You need to redesign your holder to pickup at least 3 or 4 of the 8mm(?) bolts in the front crankshaft hub. Bolts have to be tight also, if not then they'll likely shear also.

    I'd avoid trying to hold crank from flywheel end. Crankshaft is long and you'll feel the crankshaft deflect at these torques.

    Also, be careful you don't break your engine stand. These are large loads that you're applying to the unsupported end of the engine.

    Paul Shovestul



    Quote Originally Posted by Jon K
    I used a piece of 1/4" steel flat bar, drilled a hole in there, grabbed a crank pulley bolt, threaded it thru and used the floor as a stop. Turned the bolt counter clock wise with 4' breaker bar, SNAP goes the bolt in the crank pulley end. Thinking they aren't bolts rated for that kind of force, I move to the flywheel end... put one in so that it stops against the engine stand/bar, SNAP goes that bolt too.


    Wtf do I do now.
    Last edited by Bellicose Right Winger; 03-25-2006 at 07:18 AM.
    .....Got to keep the loonies on the paath.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    East Brunswick, New Jersey
    Posts
    879

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jon K
    Pics of any of this?

    I have it on an engine stand, so flywheel won't fit
    You are very screwed. I had the same situation on my 525i last summer. The twin mass was too thick so I removed it to fit the engine on the stand. On hind sight I should have loosened the crank bolt (318 ft-lbs?) in car but it won't help you now. I Jammed a big flat blade screw driver between two flywheel bolts trying to turn it. It damaged the lip of the end of the crank. Major disaster. I had to trim about 1/4" off the end by Dremel. See picture.



    Anyway, so how did I do it...Trying to remember now. Yeah, I opened the sump. Turned the block upside down. Then jammed a piece of 2x4 between the crank shaft and the block to turn the bolt loose. I think that's is your only hope now. There is no way to get eny other leverage without the flywheel on the stand.



    But you know if you have the engine in car, you can insert a punch of 1/4" diameter in the hole below the starter. Line up the engine at No.1 TDC, you can lock the crankshaft to the block and turn the bolt loose that way.
    '01 540it, 6/01
    '03 325i 5 speed, 9/02
    '10 535ix. 9/09
    '10 mini 6 speed
    '15 mini countryman 6 speed

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    if you have the pan off sticking a chunk of wood between the crank counterweight and the block works like a charm, otherwise it's build something that may or may not work/**** up the crank if you build it crapyly, i guess if the head is on you could try filling a cylinder with oil but that'd be messy, real messy if you got the valve timing wrong and filled it on the wrong stroke. if you build something bolt it to the back of the crank so you are using the larger bolts that are less likely to sheer unless you make something that uses all of the 13mm's on the front
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. M50 crank bolt torque?
    By Ferret in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-18-2008, 10:06 PM
  2. Crank sensor problem: A note on Crank sensors
    By shogun in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 01-30-2008, 07:18 PM
  3. final head bolt torque question
    By tjn in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-19-2004, 01:53 PM
  4. Water pump bolt broke, what type of bolt extractor?
    By Dash01 in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-15-2004, 02:32 PM
  5. It's final, I'm outta here. Thank you to....
    By stan in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 04-28-2004, 11:53 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •