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Thread: EAT chip installed... Something wrong?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    48

    Default EAT chip installed... Something wrong?

    Well, I got it in yesterday and the install went fine. E34's notes were great and helped alot, but getting that upper board out took significantly more effort pressure than they led on. I thought I was going to break something. I finally popped it out though *WHEW* and the rest was easy.

    The good news.... she fired right up (another big *WHEW*). I let her idle for awhile and went around the block. I have to say, I'm not as blown away as I wanted to be and I'm a little disappointed, so maybe I screwed up.

    Goods:
    Butter smooth idle
    Butter smooth "electric motor" like, liniar power band. No hard spots.
    Took that 2000 rpm "shake" right out of the motor.
    And I *think* it pulls just a shade harder... cant really tell.

    Bads:
    The biggest annoyance, after reving up to 5K rmp or so and going to shift, when clutch engaged, rpm's actually raise 500 rpm and then s l o w l y comes back down making for awkward shifting.

    The high rev when shifting and the slow rate of return is what is bothering me now. I will reserve my comments on the performance until I give the system time to adjust and also figure this out.

    I was thinking, should I have disco'd the battery? I never saw that instruction, so I never did. Did I miss this step? Should I let all the sensors and whatnot recycle that way?

    Any suggestions on how to dial in this chip would be great. Thanks tons
    Scars are tattoos with better stories.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bethlehem, PA
    Posts
    661

    Default

    Removing the ECU is all the reset you need to do. No need to disconnect the battery. The ECU connector is designed to sequence the pins safely with the battery connected.

    As far as the 'floating' is concerned, I can't see how the chip would cause that. Do you have a throttle position switch on the throttle body valve shaft? If so, have you checked it for proper operation? They can get funky, particularly on high-mile manual trans cars. They won't close completely, they can be sluggish, they can be temperature sensitive, and any of those can cause flaky return-to-idle. Even though it works when you test it with the engine off and cooled-down, it may not work under normal operating conditions. I know about this because the one on my 535 went bad and it drove me up a wall trying to pin down what failed. Every time I tested the TPS, it worked ok. As soon as it got hot, it refused to close for a minute after the throttle plate closed.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Thanks SRR2, I will check that out for sure. But it's odd to me this would be the problem. It was not doing this before I installed the chip. I will pull it apart and clean everything up just in case though. Thanks.

    any other ideas?
    Scars are tattoos with better stories.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Just talked to Mark. I guess perhaps since the sensors and unit have a 146K mile history together they may be still re-adsjusting to life with the new chip. We're going to put a few hundred miles on it and take another evaluation then.
    Scars are tattoos with better stories.

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