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Thread: preparation to switch to synthetic oil

  1. #1
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    Default preparation to switch to synthetic oil

    hello, I am going to switch from minerial to synthetic engine oil at my next oil change, can i just plonk the synthetic in and run for 2-5k then change to clear the sludge out? and also what grade of synthetic would you recommend for a mild queensland winter (similar to winter in Florida or california i suppose)

    Germans: Why can't they make everything?

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi,
    When I switched I did an intermediate step of half mineral/half synthetic for a few thousand miles. All of the talk of synthetic clearing too much stuff out, resulting in oil leaks worried me a bit. Next change I went with 0-40 mobil 1 and it seems to work just fine.
    Good luck,
    JonE

  3. #3
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    Regional NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rob101
    hello, I am going to switch from minerial to synthetic engine oil at my next oil change, can i just plonk the synthetic in and run for 2-5k then change to clear the sludge out? and also what grade of synthetic would you recommend for a mild queensland winter (similar to winter in Florida or california i suppose)
    Rob, do a search on this as you will get almost as many opinions as there are posters.
    When I bought my E34 I initially put semi-synthetic into it because I didn't know any better, nor what was in it before.
    I then started using Mobil 1 5W-40. No leaks at all !
    I finally located Mobil 1 0W-40, but it can be like rocking horse $hit in Oz so you may have to order it somewhere.
    If you read the blurb on the back of the containers, it would appear that the 0W-40 has extended life compared to the 5W-40.
    I am not suggesting to extend the period between changes, just suggesting that the 0w-40 would appear to be a superior oil.
    Interestingly I have finally located a source of fully synthetic Mobil Delvac diesel engine oil for my F 250.
    It is also worth looking at Mobil's websites for more info.

    BigKriss' oil post from a few weeks back might be useful :
    http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html


    "I'm not the village idiot.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeuk in Oz
    Rob, do a search on this as you will get almost as many opinions as there are posters.
    When I bought my E34 I initially put semi-synthetic into it because I didn't know any better, nor what was in it before.
    I then started using Mobil 1 5W-40. No leaks at all !
    I finally located Mobil 1 0W-40, but it can be like rocking horse $hit in Oz so you may have to order it somewhere.
    If you read the blurb on the back of the containers, it would appear that the 0W-40 has extended life compared to the 5W-40.
    I am not suggesting to extend the period between changes, just suggesting that the 0w-40 would appear to be a superior oil.
    Interestingly I have finally located a source of fully synthetic Mobil Delvac diesel engine oil for my F 250.
    It is also worth looking at Mobil's websites for more info.

    BigKriss' oil post from a few weeks back might be useful :
    http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html
    yeah I posted rather than searching too much because of the ******** and heresay and conflicting opinions. I'd rather listen to one opinion from someone i respect than (such as yourself) than hear all the ********.... and be confused and end up in the same place as I started.

    Germans: Why can't they make everything?

  5. #5
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    I, too, just switched to synthetics in both of my cars. My plan is to run both for about 4k miles so that the detergents can go to work on desludging the engines. I dont want the sludge ruining the seals. Just by looking into the fill cap on my Audi A4 2.8 30V motor I could see all the sludge caked up around the valve gear, etc. I'll check it again after 1k miles to see if there is any change. On the other hand, the BMW looked clean, although I will get a better view this summer when I do some top end work on the engine.

    Hopefully, if this works, I plan on changing oil every 10k, with filter changes every 5k. Theoretically, it has been said that synthetics can last for 25k, but Im not going to risk subjecting my vehicles to that. Otherwise, changing synthetics every 3k is a huge waste of money, unless you are racing the car, that's a different story.

    Besides, the real reason I switched is so that I dont have to get under the car as often! (ha)
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  6. #6
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    Default Probably more than you wanted....

    but here are some more links from the Mobil Australia site (most likely linked anyhow to the exxonmobil main site)

    There is a little chat about Synthetic and Mineral oils
    http://www.mobil.com/Australia-Engli..._V_Mineral.asp

    Exhibit 'B'
    http://www.mobil.com/Australia-Engli...es/Mobil_1.asp

    Exhibit 'C'
    http://search.exxonmobil.com/ledr/qu...guage%3A&ty9=w

    Exhibit 'C' is a link list to individual oils which is............. interesting


    For my 0.02c worth as far as Mobil oils go, I would put in Super XHP 10W-40 or 15W-40 with a new filter for 2500Kms then go across to the Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-50 or I feel more preferable with 15W-50 for the engine technology and assembly techniques of 10 - 15 years ago. It's for this reason that I would hesitate to put in the 0W-40 Mobil 1 SuperSyn as I have heard story's from people I know still in the mechanical industry about using superultramegalightin oils in older thechnology engines that have not been overhauled it has been changed over to the aforementioned and in the worst case spun a bearing.

    I will be the first to say that I have never seen anything like this happening first hand, it is all hear-say.

    But....

    I do run Mobil 1 SuperSyn 15W-40 in my '92 S XR 8 (sequentially injected 302 Winsor) and I know it has massive sludge build-up (did when I bought it) it has just clocked 230,000kms and whilst I know it's very poorly internally, I do the oil and filter changes on it every 10,000kms and after 4 Years and a tick over 100,000kms in it (had 128,000kms on it when I bought it) the oil is coming out reasonably clean. The valve stem seals have begun to leak now and it has begun to breath a little heavy (read blow-by) so this is dirtying up the oil now. It has been a very strong (and still is) and smooth engine, but it has now reached the point where it requires a complete freshen-up and I will have a closer look then to see if there is any major damage

    Please be warned I will revive this thread when that time comes (if I can find it of course)

    So the long and short of it rob101 is by all means change it but don't go to the bleeding edge of oil technology as 'there exists the possibility that it may bite you'

    I have only put the Mobil oils links here you may well have a favorite brand of oil that you might want to use. My only advice on that front is, if you travel interstate a lot you best go with something that is easily available. Call it 'insurance'

    Hope some of this dribbling is useful

    Boom n Zoom

  7. #7
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    I understand i might have sounded a little jaded talking about "********" what i mean is i know there are risks in changing over like anything and I am prepared to take those risks, but I know synthetics are better for the engine and I am not going to run minerial oil forever just because my seals "might" leak a bit. I understand there is no one solution but I what i don't want is too many conflicting opinions trying to be diplomatic.... just good sensible advice such as what has been offered here.

    I'll probably run 0W-40 though, 15W-40 minerial i have been running seemed to be okay. so 40 weight won't be too thin and the engine should see a fairly stable viscosity actually i was thinking of trying the Castrol Edge fully synthetic that is new on the market
    http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...0_B1971_05.pdf
    Last edited by rob101; 02-28-2006 at 06:33 PM.

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  8. #8
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    the new M1 0w-40 is not like the first stuff they came out with many years ago that had a LOT of detergents in it and led to leaks. The M1 now doesnt cause leaks unless your gaskets are needing replacing. There is no need to worry about anything breaking or going to hell just because of switching. Most people notice the engine being quieter immediately after changing over. I would recommend M1 0w-40 over the other weights as it can handle sub zero and the most extream heat conditions without breakdown.
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  9. #9
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    Default No mate not at all

    Oil types and brands is hotly contested by fuel type and brand topics

    I should have asked what you are running now to save confusion, sorry about that.

    I think that the 5W-40or50 synthetics are probably more suited to our climate, that's my feeling but it's not really going to hurt to put in a 0W-40.

    Sorry if I have misled you or anyone.

    Boom n Zoom

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boom n Zoom
    Oil types and brands is hotly contested by fuel type and brand topics

    I should have asked what you are running now to save confusion, sorry about that.

    I think that the 5W-40or50 synthetics are probably more suited to our climate, that's my feeling but it's not really going to hurt to put in a 0W-40.

    Sorry if I have misled you or anyone.

    Boom n Zoom
    lol no need to apologise especially for exhibit C it allowed me to compare the specs of the castrol edge 0W-40 and mobil 1 0W-40, not much of a difference but price there may be a significant difference. Time to goto supercheap
    Last edited by rob101; 02-28-2006 at 06:54 PM.

    Germans: Why can't they make everything?

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