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Thread: Rough idle - after reaplced coils and fixed engine...

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Newton, MA
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    Default Rough idle - after replaced coils and fixed engine...

    Is it possible that the exhaust is making my car idle rough? After replacing the coils, the car idles better and all, but - its still a bit rough, and loud too - exhaust? Its mounts are broken in the middle and the exhaust itself is broken... Central resonator is definitely broken, getting worse over time.. Im waiting for one of my friend to get a TIG welder, so I can weld a straight pipe to the cats, and replace them.

    Just want to know if the engine is still in fine shape and all... It seems to be better, but maybe i just got the placebo effect.

    -Artem
    Last edited by ArtemLepilov; 03-13-2006 at 01:38 AM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArtemLepilov
    Is it possible that the exhaust is making my car idle rough? After replacing the coils, the car idles better and all, but - its still a bit rough, and loud too - exhaust? Its mounts are broken in the middle and the exhaust itself is broken... Central resonator is definitely broken, getting worse over time.. Im waiting for one of my friend to get a TIG welder, so I can weld a straight pipe to the cats, and replace them.

    Just want to know if the engine is still in fine shape and all... It seems to be better, but maybe i just got the placebo effect.

    -Artem
    now i recall my car sounding rough with bad idling when i accidentally connected coolant temperature sensor into the plug for collant gauge sensor and respectively the others.
    also - How is the air flow sensor doing?
    vacuum - leaks?

    deleted air conditioning

  3. #3
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    Umm.. Im pretty sure everything is connected right. The problem can be a bad ICV, or something else? What would cause a rough idle?


    -Artem

  4. #4
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    Default

    PS - The throttlebody screw is all the way out to the nut.. Would that do it?

  5. #5
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    Why do you think you need a TIG welder to repair a stainless steel exhaust? You only need a mig welder, stainless flux, and gas. Pretty standard fare stuff.

    I'd be looking for vacuum leaks, bad coils (or fried DME resistor as a result of a bad coil), clogged or restrictive cat.

    best, whit

  6. #6
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    Fried DME resistor... I remember someone tried to do that in previous posts, but I dont think there were any pictures or any sort of instrustions on how to do that.

    Im saying - hes getting a TIG welder, and he said he would let me use it, so I dont really care what type it is as long as it works for me.

    Im almost sure there are no vacuum leaks and coils are good.

    -Artem

  7. #7
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    Newton, MA
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    Also - by rough idle i mean - the car is shaking when idling, the idle itself is actually pretty good - its solid at about 750-800RPM It drops when i throw the trans into drive, but thats a whole other thing, or it may even be normal... i dont know.

    The engine starts normally. Also - does it have a cold start sort of a thing? Because it idles around 750-800 usually after starting it and going from ~a bit over 1k RPM to 800-750

    -Maybe this clarifies it for some people.

  8. #8
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    Harmonic balancer, or fan blade unbalanced? If you have the tool, you can try to remove the fan and see if that clears it up.
    93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC

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