1983 533i questions

[mystical_wings]

Im buying a 1983 533i tommorow ,runs and looks great ,1 owner,all service records ETC...,but I was wanting to know your opinions on this model.
I know nothing about them ,and would like to get some input.Are they pieces of crap,and what things should I look out for?besides window motors.
anything will help

Thanks guys

[wingman]

In general the E28 was a vast improvement over the E12 that it replaced although some would say that it looked too similar. The rear suspension was reconfigured to dial out the nasty lift-off oversteer problem of the E12 (very nasty, trust me). It shared doors and some other bits with the E12 but is about 200kg/approx 400lbs lighter. The 3.3 has been doing service since the early 70s but is a handy and as usual, reliable performer. I hadn't heard of the 533i in the states and thought it only came out of South Africa. We in OZ got the M5, M535i, 535i, 528i and the listless 520i. I understand that you guys got the 530i and it got strangled with pollution gear. You may know all this already so sorry if you do. I've seen a heap of these with the material door trims coming away from the top capping and headlining can stain if it's been left in the sun all its life. They were pretty rust resistant if from a dry climate (Texas???). They are certainly noisier on the road than the E34 due to the older style of door sealing. Side power mirrors are 'apparently' no longer made so don't lose them. Wack an M5 body kit and it will look the biz. If you get the M5 style wheels that only take the TRX tyres lose them as the tyres are frightfully expensive. As for my humble opinion? I like them though they do look very dated along side the E34. Enjoy it!

[mystical_wings]

In general the E28 was a vast improvement over the E12 that it replaced although some would say that it looked too similar. The rear suspension was reconfigured to dial out the nasty lift-off oversteer problem of the E12 (very nasty, trust me). It shared doors and some other bits with the E12 but is about 200kg/approx 400lbs lighter. The 3.3 has been doing service since the early 70s but is a handy and as usual, reliable performer. I hadn't heard of the 533i in the states and thought it only came out of South Africa. We in OZ got the M5, M535i, 535i, 528i and the listless 520i. I understand that you guys got the 530i and it got strangled with pollution gear. You may know all this already so sorry if you do. I've seen a heap of these with the material door trims coming away from the top capping and headlining can stain if it's been left in the sun all its life. They were pretty rust resistant if from a dry climate (Texas???). They are certainly noisier on the road than the E34 due to the older style of door sealing. Side power mirrors are 'apparently' no longer made so don't lose them. Wack an M5 body kit and it will look the biz. If you get the M5 style wheels that only take the TRX tyres lose them as the tyres are frightfully expensive. As for my humble opinion? I like them though they do look very dated along side the E34. Enjoy it!

thanks for the info,I was completely clueless

[Russell]

I had an 83 528e 5-speed. Loved the car. Sold it with over 180,000 miles on it for the excellent e34 I currently own. I think Bimmer mag had a detailed article on the E28 (as well as the e34) in the past year.

Front suspension may need rebuilding like the e34. My e28 front suspension was worn out. Also, the front brake rotors tended to warp on some models. Minimal electronics. My indy mechanic says the e28 a solid "basic" car.

The 533i had much more power than the 528e. That's good. If the 533i has the TRX wheels, tires are expensive. Many owners have changed wheels to the 14 inch e28 wheels or 15, 16, or 17 inch wheels from other BMW models.

Good luck

Im buying a 1983 533i tommorow ,runs and looks great ,1 owner,all service records ETC...,but I was wanting to know your opinions on this model.
I know nothing about them ,and would like to get some input.Are they pieces of crap,and what things should I look out for?besides window motors.
anything will help

Thanks guys

[calmloki]

I've owned a 1983 533i for the last 5-6 years, it's been my daily driver up till the last month or so. I'm trying to replace it with a 1993 525iT - much more practical for my business use. The touring has just about identical horsepwer and torque values to the 10 year older car. Also has 110,000 fewer miles and an automatic. I have to say that it has not yet filled me with the joy, the tingle, of my manual 533i. It's quieter on the road than the older car and has more bells and whistles, but at a serious weight penalty. The newer car is a horrible slug, a damnable slush box station wagon. I continue to work on the 525iT in the hopes that it will grow on me, and I will be adding an EAT chip to try and wake up it's performance, but I'm not selling my 263,000 mile 23 year old 533i yet!

The 533i has outstanding leather that later BMWs lost - mine continues in great shape. It was applied over "horsehair" padding and springs: the springs tend to break and cut through the horsehair - look under the driver's seat for coarse tan dust as a sign of that, or a really squishy seat as sign of broken springs. The seat spring units are replaceable - did mine - and I have a spare set of springs. The onboard computer may not be working at all - I have the fix for that. I've amassed a bunch of spare parts, give a shout if you have questions. I get about 19 mpg overall, 24mpg on haghway only long trips. Damn fine car.
Tom Walrod
Tom Walrod

[mystical_wings]

Well I got it home,had to drive 4 hours to get it .Got the guy down to $600.00
runs great,plenty of power for age.Your right the onboard comp doesnt work.and rear pass.window wont roll up,also the steering wheel shakes when you hit a bump ,easy fix,but for the price i cant complain.

[rob101]

Well I got it home,had to drive 4 hours to get it .Got the guy down to $600.00
runs great,plenty of power for age.Your right the onboard comp doesnt work.and rear pass.window wont roll up,also the steering wheel shakes when you hit a bump ,easy fix,but for the price i cant complain.

watch for shimmy and idle problems, 533i is equivalent to a 528i euro. that sucks about the computer and windows. my windows are a bit dodgy but mostly work, my computer still works a charm especially useful is the overspeed warning its worth having a look at the switches around the gearshift for the windows they could just be gunked up. mine has proven to be a good car, but i am gifting it to my dad i figure in his old age, he might as well have a good car.

oh yeah and keep an eye out of delayed braking, as in you press the pedal and it takes a second for the brakes to come on (as well as the brake light comes on for a split second, thats the "brake bomb" stuffed. these cars use power brakes running off the power steering pump like some citroens. thus they need an accumulator (the bomb which stores some hydraulic pressure) and a regulator in order for the brake boost to be instantaneous.

[mystical_wings]

watch for shimmy and idle problems, 533i is equivalent to a 528i euro. that sucks about the computer and windows. my windows are a bit dodgy but mostly work, my computer still works a charm especially useful is the overspeed warning its worth having a look at the switches around the gearshift for the windows they could just be gunked up. mine has proven to be a good car, but i am gifting it to my dad i figure in his old age, he might as well have a good car.

oh yeah and keep an eye out of delayed braking, as in you press the pedal and it takes a second for the brakes to come on (as well as the brake light comes on for a split second, thats the "brake bomb" stuffed. these cars use power brakes running off the power steering pump like some citroens. thus they need an accumulator (the bomb which stores some hydraulic pressure) and a regulator in order for the brake boost to be instantaneous.

t

[calmloki]

Well I got it home,had to drive 4 hours to get it .Got the guy down to $600.00
runs great,plenty of power for age.Your right the onboard comp doesnt work.and rear pass.window wont roll up,also the steering wheel shakes when you hit a bump ,easy fix,but for the price i cant complain.

$600 for a one owner? I'll take two! Now, the computer fix. You have no lights or any sign that the computer is at all alive, right? There is a hidden fuse. Replacement glass short fuse - 1/2 amp, >slow-blow<, available from RadioShack. Lower the left knee cover below the steering column. You see the two good sized control boxes attached to the cover? You want the silver metal one - about 1" x 4" x 6" if I remember right. Take the silver box into your kitchen counter and obtain two BMW Special Tools #AE-857#0001a - that would be a couple butter knives. Look closely at the silver box and you will see that the one end only can be removed - but only after you pull the plug about 1/2"x 1 1/2" that is inserted into one side. Wiggle the plug up and out, then, using the butter knives, spread the silver metal box and pull the fiber end out. Attached to it are a couple or three circuit boards that extend into the metal box. Don't stab them with your special tools. Once you slide the boards out look between them and see the fuse holder with the burned out fuse. Replace, reinstall, enjoy. When you are playing with the knee cover notice the little grill way down by the driver's left toes. That is the pickup for cabin temp readings. Be nice to the doodads on the inside of that grill and be sure the hose remains hooked up to it as you put everything back together.
Enjoy a really fine BMW. Tom Walrod

[mystical_wings]

$600 for a one owner? I'll take two! Now, the computer fix. You have no lights or any sign that the computer is at all alive, right? There is a hidden fuse. Replacement glass short fuse - 1/2 amp, >slow-blow<, available from RadioShack. Lower the left knee cover below the steering column. You see the two good sized control boxes attached to the cover? You want the silver metal one - about 1" x 4" x 6" if I remember right. Take the silver box into your kitchen counter and obtain two BMW Special Tools #AE-857#0001a - that would be a couple butter knives. Look closely at the silver box and you will see that the one end only can be removed - but only after you pull the plug about 1/2"x 1 1/2" that is inserted into one side. Wiggle the plug up and out, then, using the butter knives, spread the silver metal box and pull the fiber end out. Attached to it are a couple or three circuit boards that extend into the metal box. Don't stab them with your special tools. Once you slide the boards out look between them and see the fuse holder with the burned out fuse. Replace, reinstall, enjoy. When you are playing with the knee cover notice the little grill way down by the driver's left toes. That is the pickup for cabin temp readings. Be nice to the doodads on the inside of that grill and be sure the hose remains hooked up to it as you put everything back together.
Enjoy a really fine BMW. Tom Walrod

Sweet,ill check it out