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Thread: Brake flush method, and # brake MC destroyed by over stroking.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    517

    Default Brake flush method, and # brake MC destroyed by over stroking.

    What method used for brake flush, and # brake MC have you or friends destroyed by overstroking on the bleed pump? Understand MC damage is pretty common. My son took out his on '86 535.

    Is pressure bleeder worth the money?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    982

    Default

    I recenty had to rebuild a caliper and on the bleed it took out the MC. I was surprised how rigid the pedal was. The new unit is much easier to operate. These don't last forever and its one of the most important parts on the car. If the master doesn't survive the pumping bleed process - it needs a new one anyway!
    Derek A.
    90 535i 5 Speed - Style 5 17"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    517

    Default

    Author Messages
    Gene in NC

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    Posted Sunday, February 19, 2006 @ 22:15:55

    What method used for brake flush, and # brake MC have you or friends destroyed by overstroking on the bleed pump? Understand MC damage is pretty common. My son took out his on '86 535.
    Is pressure bleeder worth the money?

    --------------------
    '
    Dana R

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    Posted Sunday, February 19, 2006 @ 22:52:08

    I did the 2 man pump method for years before ponying up the $45 for a pressure bleeder. Though I never ruined a MC I can tell you that the $45 was well worth it, just for the fact I don't have to beg someone to pump
    Shifty #2

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    Posted Sunday, February 19, 2006 @ 23:19:38

    My understanding was that the maximum pressure on the Bav Auto pressure bleeder was 28 psi and that the point of the max pressure was so that you didn't blow out the MC. I was too scared to go that high and only went to 15 psi when I did mine.
    Oh, and a pressure bleeder is definitely worth the money. Don't worry about making your own. Just buy the Bav Auto one. I think it was Shawn D that mentioned that, by the time you bought the parts and spent your whole weekend building the damned thing, you would've been better off just buying the Bav Auto one already assembled.






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    paddyhart


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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 03:44:01

    newb questions are the automatic dealies presurizing the reservoir or sucking from the nipple?
    Shifty #2

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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 04:07:39

    The Bav Auto pressure bleeder has an attachment that screws onto the brake reservoir. You then pump it so that it can pressurize the reservoir.
    So, to answer your question, it pressurizes the reservoir.

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    Tammer in Philly

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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 05:30:41

    What' the benefit of buying the BavAuto one instead of going straight to the source (Motive Products)? Do they charge the same or do you pay extra for the pretty BavAuto sticker?
    -tammer

    Sweeney

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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 06:19:53

    I still use the miti-vac method... never had a problem, even on the "absolutely no way to bleed the Saab clutch slave with a pressure bleeder" bleeding. I just remove the bleed nipple and apply a wrap of teflon tape, replace the nipple and bleed away.
    Gene in NC

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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 06:48:56

    Sweeney, you da man. I have a Multi-vac but no success on bleeding with it. By the tiime the bleed nipple was loose enough to pass fluid it also allowed air to leak around the threads. Your teflon plumbers tape is the answer. Do you leave the tape on the bleeder?
    On the other hand,, for those who don't have a multivac there is not much diff in cost vs the pressure bleeder.

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    Sweeney

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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 08:08:52

    Yep, leave the tape on.
    BMWCCA2
    Dude


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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 11:14:34


    Quote:

    Originally posted by Tammer in Philly: What' the benefit of buying the BavAuto one instead of going straight to the source (Motive Products)? Do they charge the same or do you pay extra for the pretty BavAuto sticker?



    Surprisingly, BavAuto is cheaper than Motive by quite a bit (20%?), but then everyone sells it cheaper than the manufacturer. Motive is one of the few places I've seen the aluminum cap version or the version with adapters included for most European cars, but for the one that just fits cars like ours, BavAuto is at least $5 cheaper if you don't count the guys who include shipping in the price. This is the cheapest I've seen: Ebay
    I'm the DRIVER


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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 23:06:40

    Can you use the Motive for resevoirs with non threaded cap...the one that just snaps on like Toyotas? Does I come with adaptors for it versus the BavAuto with only a BMW cap?
    --------------------
    Wil...

    '

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    Posted Monday, February 20, 2006 @ 23:15:04

    Shifty,
    I got mine directly from the source -- Motive. The build vs. buy story was about a Peachtree Chapter member who was bragging that he built one for less than I bought mine.

    Him: "Yours cost you $45. I got a garden sprayer, a pressure gauge, and some other stuff and built it for under $30."
    Me: "What did you use to connect to the reservoir?"
    Him: "I cut up another bleeder kit I had."
    Me: "Well, what did that one cost?"
    Him: "$35... oh..."

    His "cheaper" bleeder cost him $65.


    Quote:




    It depends on what kit you buy. http://www.motiveproducts.com/
    As for the BavAuto version being cheaper, even if BavAuto had had the bleeder when I wanted it, I was willing to spend a bit more to give the manufacturer more profit.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default I personally have never destroyed a master by overstroking it doing a

    2 man bleed and i've bled a lot of brakes over the years. The pressure bleeders work fine for just exchanging fluids, however if your trying to exchange fluids as well as removing and accumulated air then they don't do much. They don't operate at high enough pressures to get all the air of of nooks and crannies in the calipers,lines,cylinders etc , Surge bleeding is much more effective at this than the low pressure bleeders. The brake line pressures reached when you hit the brakes hard if the booster is working correctly is specced at between 70 and 90 bars which is a minimum of 1015 psi. So air can get forced into little nooks and crannies . Surge bleeding is where you have someone rapidly pump the pedal up and down 10 strokes or so then stand on the pedal as hard as they can , you then open the bleeder and close it when the pedal it down... This sudden surge of high pressure fluid helps to pull small air bubbles with it that would normally stay.. hence the name surge bleeding. You bleed normally in this manner and then every so many strokes you do a couple of surge bleeds like this. The only advantage to me that a shop would have with a pressure bleeder is that it doesn't tie up two people not that it does a better job. I personally don't use a pressure bleeder but i may be forced to get one since lately i've been running into more jobs where i don't happen to have someone else around to help.



    Quote Originally Posted by Gene in NC
    What method used for brake flush, and # brake MC have you or friends destroyed by overstroking on the bleed pump? Understand MC damage is pretty common. My son took out his on '86 535.

    Is pressure bleeder worth the money?


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