Poor Mans Cold Air Intake 535i

[mholbrook]

On my first E34, a 1994 530 v8, I bought a Dinan "tube" that fit into the stock airbox and was like a stovepipe to the air intake behind the right front headlight. Removed the silencer and installed and even if it did not make any more HP, it sounded great and retained the complete stock airbox and filter.

I reused the Dinan tube on my last E34, 1989 535i by screwing it into the flange that comes out of the front of the airbox when the silencer is removed. Same result. Sold that car with the Dinan mod.

Now with my new to me 1992 535i (5-speed, Granitsilber, BAV Auto Chip), I wanted to get rid of the silencer and I needed a device to attach to the box and get close to the large round hole for the factory cold air intake. A trip the the plumbing department at Lowes filled the bill with a black rubber 3" to 4" plumbing pipe adaptor. They conveniently come with two stainless hose clamps. I removed the 4" clamp as it is not needed. The 3" side just fits the flange from the stock airbox and the approximate 6" length of the adaptor is right in the hole for the cold air behind the headlight. So now I have a $6.82 ram air for my air box. Quite a savings over the $75 I paid for that Dinan tube.

[Bimminator]

On my first E34, a 1994 530 v8, I bought a Dinan "tube" that fit into the stock airbox and was like a stovepipe to the air intake behind the right front headlight. Removed the silencer and installed and even if it did not make any more HP, it sounded great and retained the complete stock airbox and filter.

I reused the Dinan tube on my last E34, 1989 535i by screwing it into the flange that comes out of the front of the airbox when the silencer is removed. Same result. Sold that car with the Dinan mod.

Now with my new to me 1992 535i (5-speed, Granitsilber, BAV Auto Chip), I wanted to get rid of the silencer and I needed a device to attach to the box and get close to the large round hole for the factory cold air intake. A trip the the plumbing department at Lowes filled the bill with a black rubber 3" to 4" plumbing pipe adaptor. They conveniently come with two stainless hose clamps. I removed the 4" clamp as it is not needed. The 3" side just fits the flange from the stock airbox and the approximate 6" length of the adaptor is right in the hole for the cold air behind the headlight. So now I have a $6.82 ram air for my air box. Quite a savings over the $75 I paid for that Dinan tube.

I would really like to see that. Any chance you could post a pic?

[Loppy]

Yes, a pic would be great.

By far sir... this is WHAT this internet thing is all about. These kinds of "pennies on the dollar" mods that actually work, and are tight, are what floats my boat.

My 540/6 "Dinanlowesdepot" induction post comming soon. Off to Home Repo in the morning.

[Incantation]

ram air? not really sure what you described is ram air.. but if it is, using it on an engine that isn't designed for it is a bad idea. someone please correct me if i'm wrong

[bahnstormer]

u are wrong =]

[mholbrook]

The engine is only going to take what air it can. You would have to be going about Mach 1 to have a 4" to 3" cone in an area diffused behind the headlights to make any difference. The smallest diameter in the flow is the approximately 2" hole in the end of the silencer that collects its air from behind the headlight via the hole in the headlight cowling. Now the biggest restriction is the AFM which is why it does no good to put a larger throttle body on an M30 motor without converting the AFM. You could use a straight 3" piece just as well but the 3" to 4" just about fills the hole in the cowling behind the headlight. Take a look, you can remove the noise reduction cone without any problem, just two clips, one on each side.

[genphreak]

The engine is only going to take what air it can. You would have to be going about Mach 1 to have a 4" to 3" cone in an area diffused behind the headlights to make any difference. The smallest diameter in the flow is the approximately 2" hole in the end of the silencer that collects its air from behind the headlight via the hole in the headlight cowling. Now the biggest restriction is the AFM which is why it does no good to put a larger throttle body on an M30 motor without converting the AFM. You could use a straight 3" piece just as well but the 3" to 4" just about fills the hole in the cowling behind the headlight. Take a look, you can remove the noise reduction cone without any problem, just two clips, one on each side.

Dude, box em up and sell em to us will you? Make an expressions of interest post, prolly get like 10-20 peeps into it, then buy a bulk lot. Add a few bucks for your trouble and help us out Dunno about others, but my hardware shop does not have what you've found...

[mholbrook]

My plan is to go to Lowes tomorrow, take a picture of the item, get the skew number and post that info on this list as well as a picture of the item installed on my 535. Hang on, you too can have ram air for cheep. I'm not in anything for the money. Retired twice and just working part time waiting for social security to kick in.

[genphreak]

My plan is to go to Lowes tomorrow, take a picture of the item, get the skew number and post that info on this list as well as a picture of the item installed on my 535. Hang on, you too can have ram air for cheep. I'm not in anything for the money. Retired twice and just working part time waiting for social security to kick in.

Nice move mate, I am sure you'll start a movement on this one. Sounds like a sweet modification you've got worked out... Many thanks in advance for posting the info and arranging it for everyone. Nick