Power door lock stopped workign

[Anton CH.]

The passenger side power door lock stopped working the other day. I can still lock the car using key or manually push down on the lock from the inside of the car. Anyone else experience this issue?

[shogun]

Can be many things like a broken door bracket, a broken microswitch, a broken wire, and so on.
Without removing the door panel and seeing it it is just speculation.
See under body
http://shrubbery.student.utwente.nl/
Or just a broken fuse?
In my car fuse # 31 is only in charge for the microswitch at passenger door.
Have you checked the fuses?

[Russell]

My front passenger door lock quits working when it is below about 30 degrees. works same with key or remotes However, it works fine when warm and has been so for three winters. Sound familar?

My rear drve'rs side rear door look quit as well last summer. New acuator at $55-60 from BMA did the trick.

[Anton CH.]

In the mean time I took off the door panel to try to see what was underneath there-wans't much. While I was takign it off I guess I was wiggling the locking mechanism and now it works! Thanks for the links. I will keep an eye on it, I'll bookmark the link. Hopefully I won't have to replace the acuator as it looks awfully painfull.

Russell: Our winters don't get colder than 40F around here. Have you tried wiggling the locking mechanism (pull the pin out and in). Maybe it just gets caught or stuck and needs a lil' lubrication.

[shogun]

Anton,
that is just a temporary repair. You have to get the lock out and clean it inside and re-grease it. Inside it is full of old hardened grease and dirt. That is blocking the mechanism. It is nicely described on Johan's page. I did it 2 weeks ago. Just a 2 hour job.

[Anton CH.]

Erich,
OK, looks like I have a job to do in a few weeks. Did you have to drill out the rivets as well? That looks like the most complex step for me as I don't have the correct power tools for this job.

[shogun]

I had a spare one from my parts car to replace it quickly, as it is cold here.
But I washed it now in Kerosin, which we use here in winter for the stoves, similar like Diesel. Good for washing engine parts. Kept it in the liquid a while.
There are openings where you can also have access to the mechanics to spray for example brake cleaner. Someone also heated it up in an oven to get the old grease more liquid and then flushed it.
Whatever you have at hand as strong detergent/fat/grease remover you can use. Then apply some new grease or a good lube, a small toothbrush is good to get into the part.
Or motorbike chain grease which does not drop down, which I like to use.
Sean used molybdenum disulphide grease to lubricate it.

Then try again if it works. If not , then maybe some mechanical thing inside is defective and you must open it with a drill.
Looks more difficult than it actually is.
And maybe before get new iten # 15
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...16&hg=41&fg=40
I think you need 2 pieces (not sure, anyway they only cost cents), that thing was broken also and the connecting levers several times slipped out, so that I had to start assembling again from start point.
I keep the old replaced one as spare now for me.