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Thread: Low compression in 1cyl of M30...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    571

    Default Low compression in 1cyl of M30...

    I'm selling my E34 at the moment, it has too many things coming up due for repair/replacement, and I need the money. Plus, I've owned it for 3 years, and feel the need to try another car. I've found an E32 that's a bit rough around the edges, but going for a good price. It has few primer patches, a rattle in the front, and needs a general tidy up, but most significantly, has low compression in 1 cylinder. The owner bought it with the intention of doing it up, but never got around to it. It's a 735iL, and has the self-leveling LAD system replaced with conventional suspension.

    The car is driveable, but runs rough under 2000rpm. What can cause low compression in a cylinder? Is this easily fixable? Owner states it may have a cracked valve, but is not sure.

    This is of course all dependant on the sale of my car.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Calgary AB Canada
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan in NZ
    I'm selling my E34 at the moment, it has too many things coming up due for repair/replacement, and I need the money. Plus, I've owned it for 3 years, and feel the need to try another car. I've found an E32 that's a bit rough around the edges, but going for a good price. It has few primer patches, a rattle in the front, and needs a general tidy up, but most significantly, has low compression in 1 cylinder. The owner bought it with the intention of doing it up, but never got around to it. It's a 735iL, and has the self-leveling LAD system replaced with conventional suspension.

    The car is driveable, but runs rough under 2000rpm. What can cause low compression in a cylinder? Is this easily fixable? Owner states it may have a cracked valve, but is not sure.

    This is of course all dependant on the sale of my car.
    Burnt valve, cracked valve, worn cam lobe (from loose oil sprayer bar banjo bolts).
    Anthony
    03/64 production

    '91M5 - 11/90, was mine, it's Jim's now.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default To add to this list, bent valve ,seized valve and guide. broken rocker arm

    broken compression ring, piston with a hole in it, collapsed ring land, broken valve spring, scored cylinder wall, blown head gasket



    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony (M5 in Calgary)
    Burnt valve, cracked valve, worn cam lobe (from loose oil sprayer bar banjo bolts).


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,305

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan in NZ
    I'm selling my E34 at the moment, it has too many things coming up due for repair/replacement, and I need the money. Plus, I've owned it for 3 years, and feel the need to try another car. I've found an E32 that's a bit rough around the edges, but going for a good price. It has few primer patches, a rattle in the front, and needs a general tidy up, but most significantly, has low compression in 1 cylinder. The owner bought it with the intention of doing it up, but never got around to it. It's a 735iL, and has the self-leveling LAD system replaced with conventional suspension.

    The car is driveable, but runs rough under 2000rpm. What can cause low compression in a cylinder? Is this easily fixable? Owner states it may have a cracked valve, but is not sure.

    This is of course all dependant on the sale of my car.
    Dan, your 21 year old logic amuses me!
    An enigma wrapped up in a contradiction!

    Then again you could just edit your post and remove this part....
    ...it has too many things coming up due for repair/replacement, and I need the money...
    ...and then everything would make sense!
    Last edited by pundit; 12-16-2005 at 08:58 PM.

    1990 E34 535iA, 215,000kms (130,000 miles).
    Dual Climate, Rear Headrests, Rollerblind, M-Tech Wheel,
    Memory Seats, EAT Chip, T-Stars.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    571

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pundit
    Dan, your 21 year old logic amuses me!
    An enigma wrapped up in a contradiction!
    I can get $4000 for my e34, this e32 is going for $800. I figure that I would spend $1000 on it, have a nice car, and be $2200 better off! What could go wrong!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    1,305

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan in NZ
    ....What could go wrong!
    With an $800.00 E32....?
    Okay guys start the list....

    Seriously spending a grand NZ (about $800.00 AUD or $600.00 USD) won't bring an E32 back from the brink. If money is a concern then you need to get European cars out of the equation because saving money and European cars is like I said before... screwing for virginity. You say that you can't afford to keep the E34 so you're planning on buying a half clapped out E32.... ??????? Well it's a slight improvement over the Audi Quattro but still not a money saving strategy old chum.
    Last edited by pundit; 12-16-2005 at 09:12 PM.

    1990 E34 535iA, 215,000kms (130,000 miles).
    Dual Climate, Rear Headrests, Rollerblind, M-Tech Wheel,
    Memory Seats, EAT Chip, T-Stars.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    571

    Default

    Suspension/handling is fine, no shimmy or play. Transmission fluid is not burnt. LAD is removed.

    However there is a hole in the leather on the drivers seat, and a few primer patches on the paint... Only cosmetic, and could be fixed as funds permit. Front suspension rattles a bit, probably just loose strut nut or worn bushes.

    I figure the $1000 allocated for repairs would get the low compression in cyl 3 sorted out, valves adjusted, and all fluids I would change myself.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Geneseo, Illinois
    Posts
    378

    Default

    Would low compression set off the cel?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    3,395

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    I don't know what a used M30 costs over there, but they're relatively inexpensive around here. If everything checks out okay, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it and R&R it.

    But get the 4 gees for your 525, first

    best, whit

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wellington,New Zealand
    Posts
    3,868

    Default

    yes dan sell the 525 first.....4000?????Dont buy an old Euro,1000 bucks will prooly only take it apart and put it together again.....Buy good jappa keep changin the oil and coolant and the thing wont need anything else until it stops
    Last edited by Paul in NZ; 12-17-2005 at 11:58 PM.
    Gone but not forgotten

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