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Thread: A few Fuel Line Replacement Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    13

    Default A few Fuel Line Replacement Questions

    I'm getting ready to replace the fuel line on my 93 525iT. I have a couple of questions for those who've done this before.

    1) What is the size of the line...10mm?

    2) To do the whole engine bay I'm estimating 2 meters of line. Is that a good guess.

    3) As the fuel line goes into the rail, there is some type of fitting that is circular and has a band/strap type clamp. The area seems just a little wet occasionally. I've tried to tigthen the strap (philips screw adjuster) but I think something else in that fitting miht be failing. What does this part do, and does anyone know that part numbers I need to replace/fix this?

    4) The vent line coming out of the front of the valve cover really needs replacement...it is very brittle. Is there a specification/diameter on this line? It certainly does not need to be FI line, just some type of fuel/vent line.

    Thanks for any advice.

    -Phil

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,250

    Default

    I ordered 2.5 Meter for my V12 engine room, and that was enough. So I assume with 2 Meters you are fine.
    Buy enough clamps.
    Use the real OEM catalog to find the right sizes
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do...938848d4d39ea1
    and also www.autohausaz.com is a good help. Type in your car and year spec and that will guide you.
    I ordered everything from Autohaus Arizona.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    3,395

    Default

    Buy more than two meters, because you'll invariably want to use pieces here and there (around the fuel filter, for instance), and it's handy to have some extra around.

    I think you're talking about the fuel pressure regulator. Does the wetness smell like gas? It should. Don't worry about replacing it unless the car has a rough idle/other weird operating characteristics that indicate it needs to be fixed. More than likely, the hose clamp is bad, causing fuel pressure to bleed off and <temporary> wetness.

    Those vent lines should be part numbered, fitted lines -- ie, the parts themselves should be purchased for their replacement, versus a length of generic hose. If oil is leaking past the fitting in the valve cover, or the fitting feels loose in the cover, replace it as well.


    best, whit
    Last edited by Kalevera; 12-15-2005 at 07:34 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    IL
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    160

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    Why does one line corrode more than the other? ... return vs. supply ... I've noticed this on a number of different types of cars.

    Ken

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    So which ones were more corroded?
    I can imagine one thing: temperature of the fuel.
    In the return line it is warmer than in the feed line, because it went trhough the complete hot engine room.
    My car has even a return line which first goes thru the aircon line !! to cool the fuel down before it returns to the fuel tank.
    Here a pic (that was before cleaning the engine room and replacing all hoses)
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/119761/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    13

    Default Thanks

    I'll get a few meters+clamps and give it a whirl. Thanks for the advice.

    -Phil

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    PA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pwalk100
    I'll get a few meters+clamps and give it a whirl. Thanks for the advice.

    -Phil
    Whatever you do - MAKE SURE that if you're replacing an injection line that it is rated for fuel injection. The idiot at pepboys cut me a length of fuel line rated for carb'd cars (15 psi) or fuel return, and told me it was rated for injection. 70psi TORE through that bitch, I lost a bunch of fuel on the Newtown Bypass.

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