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Thread: Locking crankshaft, flywheel removed....How to?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Locking crankshaft, flywheel removed....How to?

    So the M50 is on an engine stand, flywheel removed and I'm planning on removing the head one evening this week (when I'm not skate skiing or drinking). Without too much investigation, it seems that the most common wy to ensure the crank does not move is to lock it via the tranny/flywheel, BMW tool 'bla bla bla'.

    What , if any, is the best way to lock the crank without the tranny/flywheel installed?

    Any advice appreciated, lots of pics to come when i get them off the camera,

    Dave M

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    868

    Default the only reason you should avoid moving the crank

    is so that the pistons don't move up and down and hit the valves since they have been disconnected from each other. It takes more than the accidental bump to move the crank until the head comes off because there is still some compression in the cylinders.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    So the M50 is on an engine stand, flywheel removed and I'm planning on removing the head one evening this week (when I'm not skate skiing or drinking). Without too much investigation, it seems that the most common wy to ensure the crank does not move is to lock it via the tranny/flywheel, BMW tool 'bla bla bla'.

    What , if any, is the best way to lock the crank without the tranny/flywheel installed?

    Any advice appreciated, lots of pics to come when i get them off the camera,

    Dave M

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

    Default

    Get a steel flat bar at Home Depot... drill hole to match flywheel bolt mounting point... bolt it in and allow it to brace against the engine stand or drill another hole to match the tranny mount hole.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    14,839

    Default

    you could fill a cylinder with sand and that should stop the piston from moving up while you loosen the bolt.



    sorry, saw this whan really young and had to spread the stupidity. I actually saw one dude use a nylon rope fed into the cylinder to accomplish the same task...neither look appealing enough to do myself.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    baton rouge, loserana
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    6,922

    Default

    that, or if you have the pan off jam the crank with a chunk of wood between a counter weight and the block

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger
    Get a steel flat bar at Home Depot... drill hole to match flywheel bolt mounting point... bolt it in and allow it to brace against the engine stand or drill another hole to match the tranny mount hole.
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Thunder Bay, Ontario
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by winfred
    that, or if you have the pan off jam the crank with a chunk of wood between a counter weight and the block
    Thanks, while searching the archives i came across your block idea. Thought there may be a common way i wasn't aware of. I do think the block of wood suits me best

    Another question if i may.

    As I'm mating the head to another block, can I assume if the flywheel "OT" mark on the new block is lined up properly, the crank is in the right position? I assume when they (whom i bought it from) removed the head, they had it TDC.

    Thanks,

    Dave M

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    the #1 piston at tdc (all of the way up) will get you close enough if you don't have the ballencer on with it's ot mark, yet ot lined up with the mark on the timing cover is what you want
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  8. #8
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    Jan 2004
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    Thunder Bay, Ontario
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    Default

    I should have the balancer on before I plop the head on, so all should be good.

    Tahnks again Winfred, more questions to come,

    Dave M

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    404

    Default

    I think it's very unlikely seller went this trouble.
    Now the question becomes how do you determine if M50 head is at TDC?
    Check for "rocking" valves on cyl 6?

    Paul Shovestul

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    ....... I assume when they (whom i bought it from) removed the head, they had it TDC.

    Thanks,

    Dave M
    .....Got to keep the loonies on the paath.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    404

    Default

    I believe the M50 has a place for an alignment pin that locks the flywheel. Can you put the flywheel back on with 2 bolts or so and stick a 10d nail, or other suitable rod thru the hole in block near starter that lines up with hole in flywheel?

    Paul Shovestul


    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    So the M50 is on an engine stand, flywheel removed and I'm planning on removing the head one evening this week (when I'm not skate skiing or drinking). Without too much investigation, it seems that the most common wy to ensure the crank does not move is to lock it via the tranny/flywheel, BMW tool 'bla bla bla'.

    What , if any, is the best way to lock the crank without the tranny/flywheel installed?

    Any advice appreciated, lots of pics to come when i get them off the camera,

    Dave M
    .....Got to keep the loonies on the paath.

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