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Thread: Front ball joints need replacing. Cost?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,720

    Default Front ball joints need replacing. Cost?

    I need to have my car saftied ASAP, and my indy mechanic tells me, to pass, I need new front ball joints. I know him to be trustworthy and competent. He has quoted me $650+labor, in Canadian dollars.

    Is that fair?
    .


    Jay Lebo - Toronto, Canada
    1990 BMW 535i
    5-speed conversion
    Lightened flywheel
    Sachs Suspension Kit
    E.A.T. Chip

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default

    Well, not sure which ball joints you're in need of, but even if we count on needing left and right upper and lower control arms with bushings, the total cost of parts from BMA would be:

    Lemfoerder lower control arms with pressed 750 bushing and new ball joints-Maximum $200 U.S.

    Lemfoerder upper control arms and seperate bushings ($20 each) and new ball joints-Maximum $220 U.S. (there are much cheaper alternatives at BMA, Meyle etc.)

    So, if your mechanic is purchasing new control arms , bushings and ball joints for every conceivable component (except tie rods), then he's in the ballpark. If would accept you bringing the parts, you can ordeer them and save some $$. I am also in Canada and have ordered many parts from BMA without paying significant duties etc.

    Check to see exactly what you're getting for $650 and compare it to http://catalog.bmaparts.com/epcvsoap...entid=bmaparts

    Good Luck,

    Dave M

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,720

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    Well, not sure which ball joints you're in need of, but even if we count on needing left and right upper and lower control arms with bushings, the total cost of parts from BMA would be:

    Lemfoerder lower control arms with pressed 750 bushing and new ball joints-Maximum $200 U.S.

    Lemfoerder upper control arms and seperate bushings ($20 each) and new ball joints-Maximum $220 U.S. (there are much cheaper alternatives at BMA, Meyle etc.)

    So, if your mechanic is purchasing new control arms , bushings and ball joints for every conceivable component (except tie rods), then he's in the ballpark. If would accept you bringing the parts, you can ordeer them and save some $$. I am also in Canada and have ordered many parts from BMA without paying significant duties etc.

    Check to see exactly what you're getting for $650 and compare it to http://catalog.bmaparts.com/epcvsoap...entid=bmaparts

    Good Luck,

    Dave M
    Thanks, Dave. The problem is, this is urgent. If I don't get the car certified RIGHT AWAY my insurance co. is going to cancel my policy, and create major headaches for me.

    I don't mind spending $100-200 over BMA prices to have it done NOW. I'll find out exactly what's getting replaced.

    Assuming my guy is using OEM parts, are the parts you mentioned preferable, all else being equal?
    .


    Jay Lebo - Toronto, Canada
    1990 BMW 535i
    5-speed conversion
    Lightened flywheel
    Sachs Suspension Kit
    E.A.T. Chip

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    269

    Default

    is he replacing just the balljoints? i dont know if thats possible. if hes replacing the whole control arm and/or thrust arm assemblies, make sure they have the 750il bushings..
    -Pekka

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    868

    Default When is the last time you replaced the.....

    upper and lower control arms??? If the bushings are shot, it would be best to just get the entire arm with bushings and put them in instead of taking it all apart just to replace the ball joints....especially if you will need to replace them again in the near future to remedy worn bushings.

    I would think your insurance would put a hold on their policy while the car is in the shop being fixed to meet their criteria.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    868

    Default Actually I think the M5 bushings are a bit stronger.....

    Been using them with better success than the 750 bushings as many others are as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by peks
    is he replacing just the balljoints? i dont know if thats possible. if hes replacing the whole control arm and/or thrust arm assemblies, make sure they have the 750il bushings..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
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    Default

    Oh man, I'm more confused than ever!

    Please somebody explain this to me. Why does it matter which bushings are used? What parts in that vicinity tend to wear out, and which ones (if any) last forever?

    My mechanic just told me on the phone that "the balljoints -- which hold the wheels on -- are completely shot and about to let go". That's all I know. I don't really understand what all goes on in that part of the car.

    Like I said, I trust my mechanic. He will follow my instructions if I request specific parts, but I have to know what to tell him. And, it would be nice to explain my decisions if he asks me about them.

    Can someone educate me a bit here and give be both a plan and an explanation to go along with it?

    BTW, I did look at BMA as Dave suggested above, but found absolutely nothing in the "bushings and ball joints" section for the 535.

    Oh, and to answer Scott's question, I don't know when the control arms were last replaced. Maybe never. Do they typically need replacing after xx miles?

    My insurance agent has agreed to sit tight while the parts are on order. So ordering from BMA or some other place is an option, but I need to know exactly what to order, since this is all very foreign to me.

    Many, many thanks guys.
    Last edited by Jay 535i; 12-06-2005 at 02:34 PM.
    .


    Jay Lebo - Toronto, Canada
    1990 BMW 535i
    5-speed conversion
    Lightened flywheel
    Sachs Suspension Kit
    E.A.T. Chip

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    868

    Default See answers below....

    There are two control arms on each side of the front suspension. Upper thrust arm keeps wheel centered in the wheel well, Lower control arm keeps the wheel stable in/out of the wheel well.

    Each arm has a bushing that a bolt goes through where it attaches to the subframe under the car. The upper thrust arm bushing gets beat up and that is the place to use a stronger bushing (750 or M5 will fit). The lower is what it is....doesn't take as much abuse.

    The ball joints connect these arms at the bottom of the strut assembly. They also wear and the rubber boots break open releasing grease, accelerating wear. This is probably what your mechanic sees.

    It is much easier and cost effective to order the entire arm with a bushing of your choice (M5 is my preference) pressed in from BMA than it is to have your mechanic remove the part and pop out the ball joint and press in new ones. This way, if your bushings were close to needing replacement, you have now done some great preventative maintenance.

    The lower arm bushing is the same (nothing to upgrade) and is the same case as the upper arm when it comes to replacement.


    Quote Originally Posted by jaylebo
    Oh man, I'm more confused than ever!

    Please somebody explain this to me. Why does it matter which bushings are used? What parts in that vicinity tend to wear out, and which ones (if any) last forever?

    My mechanic just told me on the phone that "the balljoints -- which hold the wheels on -- are completely shot and about to let go". That's all I know. I don't really understand what all goes on in that part of the car.

    Like I said, I trust my mechanic. He will follow my instructions if I request specific parts, but I have to know what to tell him. And, it would be nice to explain my decisions if he asks me about them.

    Can someone educate me a bit here and give be both a plan and an explanation to go along with it?

    BTW, I did look at BMA as Dave suggested above, but found absolutely nothing in the "bushings and ball joints" section for the 535.

    Oh, and to answer Scott's question, I don't know when the control arms were last replaced. Maybe never. Do they typically need replacing after xx miles?

    My insurance agent has agreed to sit tight while the parts are on order. So ordering from BMA or some other place is an option, but I need to know exactly what to order, since this is all very foreign to me.

    Many, many thanks guys.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    94

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jaylebo
    Oh man, I'm more confused than ever!

    Please somebody explain this to me. Why does it matter which bushings are used? What parts in that vicinity tend to wear out, and which ones (if any) last forever?

    My mechanic just told me on the phone that "the balljoints -- which hold the wheels on -- are completely shot and about to let go". That's all I know. I don't really understand what all goes on in that part of the car.

    Like I said, I trust my mechanic. He will follow my instructions if I request specific parts, but I have to know what to tell him. And, it would be nice to explain my decisions if he asks me about them.

    Can someone educate me a bit here and give be both a plan and an explanation to go along with it?

    BTW, I did look at BMA as Dave suggested above, but found absolutely nothing in the "bushings and ball joints" section for the 535.

    Oh, and to answer Scott's question, I don't know when the control arms were last replaced. Maybe never. Do they typically need replacing after xx miles?

    My insurance agent has agreed to sit tight while the parts are on order. So ordering from BMA or some other place is an option, but I need to know exactly what to order, since this is all very foreign to me.

    Many, many thanks guys.
    He may be referring to the wheel hubs which could be around $200 each. If it was the upper/lower control arms you would probably be experiencing some typical 50-60mph shaking.

    good luck-
    Chip
    '92 535i 5sp
    EAT chip, Sachs kit, RRT sport control and upper thrust arms, SS brakelines, Camber plates, Subframe inserts, 3.64 Diff, M5 (3.6L) calipers.
    '87 325iS

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,720

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott H
    It is much easier and cost effective to order the entire arm with a bushing of your choice (M5 is my preference) pressed in from BMA than it is to have your mechanic remove the part and pop out the ball joint and press in new ones. This way, if your bushings were close to needing replacement, you have now done some great preventative maintenance.
    If I order that part you're talking about -- the entire arm with a bushing -- does that include the ball joint?

    Are you further saying that, strictly speaking, there's no need to replace the lower arm right now?

    I'm still a little confused, although your explanation helped a lot.
    .


    Jay Lebo - Toronto, Canada
    1990 BMW 535i
    5-speed conversion
    Lightened flywheel
    Sachs Suspension Kit
    E.A.T. Chip

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