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Thread: keyless by Hornet doesn't unlock

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default keyless by Hornet doesn't unlock

    I've read all the posts on keyless installations and problems and it helped me a lot, especially Javier's knowledgable input about locks.
    I've got the car to remote star and lock but unlocking is still NOT working.
    I have 1989 525i, m20, no factory alarm and Hornet (DEI) 851T system.
    I use two 30A relays in addition to the remote module to convert to positive pulse. I conected relays like this:
    87 and 86 to +12V
    85 to Hornet module
    30 to door wire
    I used two wires from the kick panel's batch of wires: lock - red/white/yellow and unlock - blue/brown/yellow.
    I put my DMM red wire to module wire at the relay 85 prong and it shows +12V on both lock and unlock wires, but UNLOCK DOESN'T GO TO GROUND (voltage drop) when I press remote button.
    Question: do I have a faulty module, Or am I connecting it wrong, Or is this because of unlocking in two stages that this car supposto need?
    You guys are my last resort before I go and get pro help or giveup. The Hornet people gave up and have no clue.
    Thanks very much

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default Anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by nariusb
    I've read all the posts on keyless installations and problems and it helped me a lot, especially Javier's knowledgable input about locks.
    I've got the car to remote star and lock but unlocking is still NOT working.
    I have 1989 525i, m20, no factory alarm and Hornet (DEI) 851T system.
    I use two 30A relays in addition to the remote module to convert to positive pulse. I conected relays like this:
    87 and 86 to +12V
    85 to Hornet module
    30 to door wire
    I used two wires from the kick panel's batch of wires: lock - red/white/yellow and unlock - blue/brown/yellow.
    I put my DMM red wire to module wire at the relay 85 prong and it shows +12V on both lock and unlock wires, but UNLOCK DOESN'T GO TO GROUND (voltage drop) when I press remote button.
    Question: do I have a faulty module, Or am I connecting it wrong, Or is this because of unlocking in two stages that this car supposto need?
    You guys are my last resort before I go and get pro help or giveup. The Hornet people gave up and have no clue.
    Thanks very much
    I wonder if anyone has any input, anything - it might be what I need.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    518

    Default

    It appears as if you have the correct wires from the kickpanel harness. Have you tried applying 12 volts to the unlock wire directly? Your relay setup seems correct as well. It's not unlikely that you have a faulty alarm module. Do you have the module grounded well? I experienced problems with my alarm until I relocated the grounding point to a more suitable location under the dashboard. If you want to test the module, disconnect the unlock module unlock wire from the relay and check to see if it will go to ground without being connected to the relay. If it does, it's likely that you have a weak ground. Otherwise the alarm module might have a faulty internal relay. Also, make sure that there aren't any internal options for the unlock pulse. My Viper 1000 provides a few different timing options for locking and unlocking. Hope this helps you out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Thanks Rus, I tried what you suggested:
    I applied 12V to door wire directly and it opened no problem, which rules out the door solenoid.
    I relocated to a good/tested ground point above brake pedal at firewall.
    I tested unlock wire from Hornet module and no 12v no matter how many times I press remote, which means it didn't go to ground either.
    My Hornet 851t doesn't have anything that I know that would affect it. I went through programing the buttons once by presing program key in sertain sequince.
    So it's probably the module.!?
    Have a good night.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Thats because its the wrong unlock wire. You can only test them with the doors closed and using the key in the PassenGer door. Left hand drive cars its the drivers side / right hand drive its the left side . use the white /green yelow for unlock and blue /red for lock or opposite. they are the 2 wires that stay at 12v until the opossite is used ie: lock the door with key one wire will show 12v and it stays at 12v till its unlocked. those are your wires.if you use the other recomended wires you will have a probleme with double locking and unlocking . the dead bolts dont activate in this state.
    Goodluck
    Strap

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Strap
    Thats because its the wrong unlock wire. You can only test them with the doors closed and using the key in the PassenGer door. Left hand drive cars its the drivers side / right hand drive its the left side . use the white /green yelow for unlock and blue /red for lock or opposite. they are the 2 wires that stay at 12v until the opossite is used ie: lock the door with key one wire will show 12v and it stays at 12v till its unlocked. those are your wires.if you use the other recomended wires you will have a probleme with double locking and unlocking . the dead bolts dont activate in this state.
    Goodluck
    Strap
    Hi Strap for breathing some hope in to me. Are you sure those are the ones? I have 1989 525i and the wireing changed in 1991 or 1992 to the ones you said according the DEI sheets.
    But I'll give it a try when home today, that is if I can find those wires in my car. Do you know what they exactly go to?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nariusb
    Hi Strap for breathing some hope in to me. Are you sure those are the ones? I have 1989 525i and the wireing changed in 1991 or 1992 to the ones you said according the DEI sheets.
    But I'll give it a try when home today, that is if I can find those wires in my car. Do you know what they exactly go to?
    Ok I've got the door unlock but not lock when I connected to white/green (to module unlock) and blue/brown. So the good news is that the module is OK.
    I just need to find that magic wire combo.
    I've tried white/green wire in combination with almost all the rest and still no both ways. I haven' touched black or several brown ones.
    Strap, do you have any other ideas?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nariusb
    I've read all the posts on keyless installations and problems and it helped me a lot, especially Javier's knowledgable input about locks.
    I've got the car to remote star and lock but unlocking is still NOT working.
    I have 1989 525i, m20, no factory alarm and Hornet (DEI) 851T system.
    I use two 30A relays in addition to the remote module to convert to positive pulse. I conected relays like this:
    87 and 86 to +12V
    85 to Hornet module
    30 to door wire
    I used two wires from the kick panel's batch of wires: lock - red/white/yellow and unlock - blue/brown/yellow.
    I put my DMM red wire to module wire at the relay 85 prong and it shows +12V on both lock and unlock wires, but UNLOCK DOESN'T GO TO GROUND (voltage drop) when I press remote button.
    Question: do I have a faulty module, Or am I connecting it wrong, Or is this because of unlocking in two stages that this car supposto need?
    You guys are my last resort before I go and get pro help or giveup. The Hornet people gave up and have no clue.
    Thanks very much
    Looking at this for Omega unit below did I conected my relays wrong?
    http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/Upgrade/Data/Keyless2.gif
    The Omega module uses 3 wires to connect to realys I use only two lock and unlock, 12v constant I get from ignition lock red wire. I wired power to 86/87, module to 85 and door to 30. I don't use 87a.
    Could this be a problem?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nariusb
    Looking at this for Omega unit below did I conected my relays wrong?
    http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/Upgrade/Data/Keyless2.gif
    The Omega module uses 3 wires to connect to realys I use only two lock and unlock, 12v constant I get from ignition lock red wire. I wired power to 86/87, module to 85 and door to 30. I don't use 87a.
    Could this be a problem?
    This is a page from Bentley if someone with electrical skills would take a look at the attachment.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nariusb
    This is a page from Bentley if someone with electrical skills would take a look at the attachment.
    The picture is not clear so I post the colors of my car's driver's side:
    Door Lock motor has:
    (Blue, Black), (White, White/Green), (White/Black, Red/Green) in pairs.

    Door Lock Switch:
    Red/green hot all times/fused
    Blue/Brown that turns to Blue/Brown/Yellow in General Module
    White/Red that turns to White/Red/Yellow in GM

    Now which two of these do I go with?

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