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Thread: Replace stock amplifier only ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    857

    Default Replace stock amplifier only ?

    Hi.
    Just got my first BMW, 1992 525i, and I've been dreaming about owning a BMW since forever. So I'm happy as a clam !

    I've searched the forum, and there's a lot of talk for a complete sound system overhaul, which I don't want to do ($$).

    My rear right speaker turns on and off with a cackle after 30 minutes of driving - after not having played at full volume. It does emit sound, but faintly outside of when it kicks in. At first it cackles only for a bit, then the speaker stays on a few moments, and then makes clicks again.

    I strongly suspect something's wrong with the amp. I've only just seen the pictures here of where to find this amp, so I'll look at it. I'm certain it's not the wiring or a faulty connection, because it would not happen only after 30 minutes, but as soon as I turn on the system. Bumps on the road have no effect on the problem either.

    I'm satisfied with my sound system (stock head unit with CD changer), so my only consideration so far is to change the amp, but not necessarily getting a used amp. The speakers are in pristine condition, and I like how they sound otherwise. Any recommendations ? Any particular kind of aftermarket amp that might work as an equivalent ?

    I'm in Canada if that helps.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Barrie Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    437

    Default

    I also want to know more about the e34 system. I just bought 2 12" Infinity Subwooffs (baswerx box if u care) ,planning on gettiin a RF amp. will i have to do any modifications to the stock set up.

    Also I have a Sony xplod deck(**** **** **** pure **** i know) but when i fade all the sound the the rear speakers,,,, they dont work, they only work when its in the middle. wtf is up with that bad wiring job???

    Cheers

    J.McWatters

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default Don't know what do you have in your car, but in mine, ...

    "Babaria C Professional RDS" the stock amp is quite more than the amp. It also holds the tuner system and crossovers for the different speakers (ten in total). In my case, to change amp also means to change head unit and probably modify the speaker system.

    I got once the issue you described, but with the front left twitter (the one installed in the door). It ended being the connection between the AMP mother board and one auxiliary board (They are at 90 degrees and connectors are metal spring wires going into holes at connecting board, I found it as I opened the amplifier wile operating the radio, shaking the boards reproduced the issue, further analysis show the connector points very weak, so I decided to put some solder in there (know now it is not detachable, but have worked fine ever since).

    Javier

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
    Posts
    834

    Default

    it is for sure ... totaly wrong wireing ... click here and review the wires to the rear amplifire so you would know what to do. IF you sony deack have 8 wires for speakers then you connect every 2 commons to getther via a 4.7Ohms resistor and connect it to the common input of the Left or Rght depending on the inputs ur using.

    if u had any problems then email me ... as I have fixed my damaged amp last week and I know all its connections now.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
    Posts
    834

    Default

    I think that no all amps have the antenna amplifier there ... mine had nothing but i think it feeds the power to the antenna amplifire. still not sure. but since I fixed my burnt IC last week and I wanted to test the amp before mounting it back I havn't seen anything related to the antenna at all. do u know different versions of the rear amp?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default Antenna amplifier is not in the Amp, it is feed by ...

    a white wire coming from the head unit, and also going to the Amp. Think I've seen some posts about this white wire.

    e-mailed you some drawings.

    Javier

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BMWDriver
    Hi.
    Just got my first BMW, 1992 525i, and I've been dreaming about owning a BMW since forever. So I'm happy as a clam !

    I've searched the forum, and there's a lot of talk for a complete sound system overhaul, which I don't want to do ($$).

    My rear right speaker turns on and off with a cackle after 30 minutes of driving - after not having played at full volume. It does emit sound, but faintly outside of when it kicks in. At first it cackles only for a bit, then the speaker stays on a few moments, and then makes clicks again.

    I strongly suspect something's wrong with the amp. I've only just seen the pictures here of where to find this amp, so I'll look at it. I'm certain it's not the wiring or a faulty connection, because it would not happen only after 30 minutes, but as soon as I turn on the system. Bumps on the road have no effect on the problem either.

    I'm satisfied with my sound system (stock head unit with CD changer), so my only consideration so far is to change the amp, but not necessarily getting a used amp. The speakers are in pristine condition, and I like how they sound otherwise. Any recommendations ? Any particular kind of aftermarket amp that might work as an equivalent ?

    I'm in Canada if that helps.

    Thanks.
    It is not a simple thing to just replace the amp, or the receiver for that matter. It could be a connection issue, as discussed earlier... but try and expose the amp in the trunk, and see if it still happens, it might be a temperature issue. Exposing the amp would keep it cooler, and may help determine the problem.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
    Posts
    834

    Default

    yeh that wire is the one activates the amplifire on ACC also it the power to the RF amplifire ... I replied to u in the email ... I think that the RF amp is located somewhere else I still dont know where

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    857

    Default

    I'm definitely going to take out the amp and have a look inside it's entrails. We'll see from there. I'll be glad if indeed it's just a matter of soldering. Thanks for the tips Javier.

    I'm still curious to find out if I can just replace the amp with an aftermarket one.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    857

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Exact-Oh
    It is not a simple thing to just replace the amp, or the receiver for that matter. It could be a connection issue, as discussed earlier... but try and expose the amp in the trunk, and see if it still happens, it might be a temperature issue. Exposing the amp would keep it cooler, and may help determine the problem.
    The weather is cold out here. So I thought perhaps heat made it better. I touched it this afternoon as I located it, and there is thick grease or vaseline type gel on it. It's a bit suspicious. I'll also try tapping on it as the system is on to see if that does anything.

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