Reply With Quotemust be good to go if it doesnt overheat, a hare over 12 oclock is OK, mine did the same until I changed the thermostat.
Bleeding results
I tried to post a reply on the "overheating!!" thread but for some reason it won't let me. I wanted to give you guys the results of the bleeding. So I turned on the engine (it was cold) and opened the bleed screw, for the first 5 seconds there were two small outbursts of coolant. This caught me off guard (didnt know what to expect ) so I closed the screw, and opened it again. After that there was a constant stream of coolant pouring out in a trajectory. I revved the engine but didnt see it pissing, so I bled it for a little bit more and waited for the temperature to reach the 12o mark. When that happened, I revved it again and started to see one stream going into the expansion tank. So I closed it and took it for a test drive. I drove for around 33 minutes and the temp stayed just a tiny hair past 12o. However, the weather was kinda bad. It was around 40 degrees Fahrenheit outside and raining. I also drove it the next couple of days, but it was for relatively short trips (30 mins or so) and the needle seems to stay just a little past 12 o mark. Is this negligible?
So what do you think? Did that get rid of the air?
Green Beret Special Ops
must be good to go if it doesnt overheat, a hare over 12 oclock is OK, mine did the same until I changed the thermostat.
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
2 Grand Master
Mine is a hair over 12 in the summer with the a/c on and a hair under 12 in the winter with the heater on. It was driven home in 100+degree weather in stop and go trafic without budging over a hair over the 12 mark, so if its in good shape i dont think it should ever go much above 12.
Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
southwest WA
ARRGHH! The needle went to 3/4 of the way (the next division after 12 o'). I don't know what to do....My dad said that the "oil" blinker flickered on and off while the temperature was creeping up. Do I need to change my oil? I haven't changed for around 5 months because it hasn't been running for almost 2 months (had to save up for parts). I checked the dipstick and there was oil around the first indentation, don't know how else to describe it. If you go to this link and look at the last picture, on my dipstick there's oil to a little bit to the left of the arrow. http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_oil_extractor.shtml
I am absolutely stumped...do you guys have any suggestions? I am absolutely frustrated...Thanks for all your help so far, I really appreciate it.
I think my fan clutch is broken, the main fan is spinning at the same rate when the engine is cold and when the engine is past the 1/2 mark. I still have warranty on it so I'm gonna get it swapped.
5-10 Grand Master
the fan clutch won't kick in with out heat, i've seen radiators collaps internally and have a big cold spot in the center while the motor is roasting, while the motor is warm reach in and feel the radiator infront of the clutch, if it's cold/cool and warm in other places the rad is ****
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
I got a new radiator installed a couple of weeks ago, so it should be good. I don't think its the fan clutch either. Does anyone know how to test the electrical fan? These cars are a nightmare...
2 Grand Master
Turn on the A/C, get out of the car and check the auxillary fan. It runs when the A/c goes on or the temp reaches 3/4.Originally Posted by leetsauce4000
Ralph Mendoza Jr. - Long Beach, CA
Yeah, it was the aux fan. It wasn't working so my dad cut one of the wires short, I think, (not too sure what he did). It has something to do with the wire fuse box thingy to the right of the radiator *facing the way you would if you were in the car looking straight* I think we need to buy a new aux fan because its permanently stuck in the first speed, and doesn't switch.
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