GO FISHING, use SLABSAUCE Fishing Attractant
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Rotor screw help?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    1,750

    Default Rotor screw help?

    So I recently got new rotors and pads for the car, and it's obviously not a very hard job. I got the fronts done no problem, and on my driver's rear side, the rotor mounting screw was stripped to ****, and it sucks because that was the whole reason I was changing the brakes (the mechanic when I first got the car duffed it with rotor replacement ["you need this to pass inspection"] and maladjusted the parking brake and didn't even replace the pads. another rant). Anyways, I tried basically everything in the book to get it out. Drilling it, using a chisel to try and get it, a ton and a half of wd-40 and liquid wrench. Is there anything else I can do?


    Quote Originally Posted by Alexlind123
    You're my hero.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

    Default

    Well, for starters, use PB Blaster -- it's a much better catalyst than either WD40 or Liquid Wrench.

    I usually take a hammer to the rotor before even attempting to pull the set screw. Helps knock the rust loose. If the head strips, it can be drilled out quite easily -- I'm not sure what kind of drill you're using, but it's a 1 minute job with the right bit.

    Get a Milwaukee Magnum Holeshooter or similar ("serious") tool and try it. Daddy's rechargable screwdriver ain't gonna cut it.

    Good luck!

    best, whit

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    1,750

    Default

    I was using a craftsman corded 3/8" drive drill with a bit designed for pulling stripped screws... I'll check out the PB blaster tomorrow, it might help, the screw is 100% frozen. Thanks Whit


    Quote Originally Posted by Alexlind123
    You're my hero.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

    Default

    Is the old rotor off or ? I've seen them FUSE to the hub, which could be part of the problem here -- ie, screw is not holding the rotor in place, rust is.

    My rear pass wheel/rotor/hub were fused together I bought the car -- a biproduct of it sitting for two years and one reason why I use "excessive" amounts of antisieze grease these days. It took about a half hour of consistent work to get the entire thing apart. This was the process:

    1) PB the heck out of the holes and the back of the rotor where it meets the hub. The stuff will seep in gradually, keep soaking it in stages -- it takes some time for it to break the tension.
    2) Bang it with a hammer, hat sides and hub surface, top and bottom/left and right sides of the rotor face
    3) Attempt (any kind of) rotational movement by grabbing the thing -- might not work in your case given that the set screw/stud is still in the hub.

    I've encountered one similar situation on a car since then -- a '77 530i E12. I used an air hammer and a regular hammer, plus PB, with much faster success.


    best, whit

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    5,403

    Default

    Grind the head of the set screw down so the rotor will come off. then try turning the stud with vice grips. Break out the PB blaster, torch, whatever you have... drill it out adn retap hole if needed.


    SET SCREWS AREN'T 100% necessary.

    They hold the rotor to the hub to keep lug holes aligned when wheel comes off. It does not have anything to do with the actual force of keeping the rotor on. I don't use them.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    2,563

    Default

    [QUOTE=Jon K]Grind the head of the set screw down so the rotor will come off. then try turning the stud with vice grips. Break out the PB blaster, torch, whatever you have... drill it out adn retap hole if needed.


    SET SCREWS AREN'T 100% necessary.

    They hold the rotor to the hub to keep lug holes aligned when wheel comes off. It does not have anything to do with the actual force of keeping the rotor on. I don't use them.[/
    QUOTE]
    Really?

    Ralph Mendoza Jr. - Long Beach, CA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    5,403

    Default

    [QUOTE=uscharalph]
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon K
    Grind the head of the set screw down so the rotor will come off. then try turning the stud with vice grips. Break out the PB blaster, torch, whatever you have... drill it out adn retap hole if needed.


    SET SCREWS AREN'T 100% necessary.

    They hold the rotor to the hub to keep lug holes aligned when wheel comes off. It does not have anything to do with the actual force of keeping the rotor on. I don't use them.[/
    QUOTE]
    Really?
    really really. your entire rotor is not supported by one small screw. it's merely to keep the rotor on the hub when you rotate tires etc. I am a big boy and can manage removing my wheel and not having my rotor get askew. I don't use set screws, too much hassle, not enough reward

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI; Chicago, IL
    Posts
    361

    Default

    You're not trying hard enough.

    Use the force.
    1990 BMW 535i 5 speed - Black on Grey, LSD

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    404

    Default

    I use a 3/8" bit centered on the allen hex and drill the head of the screw off. This leaves enough of the screw left to get vise grips on it.

    Like others have said, all this screw does is keep bolt holes aligned, the rotor is really held by being clamped between hub and wheel. This screw isn't necessary, but it is convenient. On reassembly screw only needs to be finger tight.

    Paul Shovestul


    QUOTE=angrypancake]So I recently got new rotors and pads for the car, and it's obviously not a very hard job. I got the fronts done no problem, and on my driver's rear side, the rotor mounting screw was stripped to ****, and it sucks because that was the whole reason I was changing the brakes (the mechanic when I first got the car duffed it with rotor replacement ["you need this to pass inspection"] and maladjusted the parking brake and didn't even replace the pads. another rant). Anyways, I tried basically everything in the book to get it out. Drilling it, using a chisel to try and get it, a ton and a half of wd-40 and liquid wrench. Is there anything else I can do?[/QUOTE]
    .....Got to keep the loonies on the paath.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default If your replacing the rotor anyway, the amount of material under the

    rotor retaining screw is very thin, so if you take a big hammer and whack the back side of the rotor 180 degrees opposite from the screw, you usually have enough leverage on the blow that it breaks out the rotor around the screw, then you can remove the rotor and enough screw sticks out of the hub that you can grab it with some big vice grips and get it loose the easy way.



    Quote Originally Posted by angrypancake
    So I recently got new rotors and pads for the car, and it's obviously not a very hard job. I got the fronts done no problem, and on my driver's rear side, the rotor mounting screw was stripped to ****, and it sucks because that was the whole reason I was changing the brakes (the mechanic when I first got the car duffed it with rotor replacement ["you need this to pass inspection"] and maladjusted the parking brake and didn't even replace the pads. another rant). Anyways, I tried basically everything in the book to get it out. Drilling it, using a chisel to try and get it, a ton and a half of wd-40 and liquid wrench. Is there anything else I can do?

Similar Threads

  1. breaks, rotor & hex screw
    By e34.535i.sport in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-17-2008, 12:53 AM
  2. Vent screw / bleeder screw...
    By Rick L in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-25-2007, 09:46 PM
  3. Rotor screw dimensions?
    By Monastie in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-18-2007, 07:38 PM
  4. rotor set screw
    By taralst in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 07-24-2005, 07:47 AM
  5. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-12-2004, 10:20 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •