1989 735iL Questions/Problems

[AllGo'n'Show]

Hey all, so I finally picked up my new ride, couple of minor things I just need to get fixed quickly so they will stop bugging me.


Sixth, when I am stopping or turning a corner, I hear what seems to be a pump, and grinding of the brakes, although sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Is the suspension leveling system on all 4 corners or just the rears? Would I be hearing the pump go on when I turn corners going down hills or up hills trying to level the car or am I hearing something else?

Seventh, when I am driving, sometimes my AntiLock braking light comes on, sometimes not, is it just telling me that it is activiating it or does this mean there is a problem with the whole system? It flashes once, then goes on, sometimes the whole trip, sometimes just for 30 seconds.

FIXED First, Brake Lining sensor in the front was gone, new one put on for 9.20 and bingo, all is well.
FIXED Second, Mustard Relay seemed to be the issue. Thanks shogun.
FIXED Third, God damn it ate over 8 litres of bug wash!!!!!!
FIXED Fourth, Just topped up the coolant. Its the green stuff though , might do a whole flush next spring and put the blue stuff back in.
FIXED Fifth, Adjusted that leveling device and put 3 buddies in the back seat and me on the trunk, didn't get the warning so it looks good, also looks like its sitting higher now so looking good so far.

[shogun]

1. change sensors now. If you do not, you do not know if you just brake on the iron to iron and no brake material is left. For your own safety.

2. Common problem. Do a search for LKM resoldering, CCM resoldering, mustard relay resoldering. A lot of info. For example on my website under e32fixes.com.
Brake light: also check the brake switch under the brake pedal. Repair info on Gale's page on my website.

3. Open the lid and use a flashlight to see inside the level switch. The lower part of the level switch should float and have contact. If it hands down, there is water in the float and you have to replace it. That is the usual prob. Or the wires are broken. But that you can easily check: just bridge the 2 connectors for the sensor and the alarm should go away.
For suppliers search for BMW online vendor list on search on top of this page.

4. either coolant level too low or see item 3. Sensor.
Do a search here for online spare parts catalog or online ETK. There input your VIN and you will find where the sensor is located.
Bookmark that page.

5. See my website under EDC/Niveauregulierung and thereunder adjustment of ride level. Maybe just the ride height has to be adjusted.

6.LAD is only at the rear. The pump works always, as it is a dual pump which also works for the power steering. You will hear nothing on the LAD function and adjustment.
Check all sus parts and the brake pads. See un my page under Bruno's page, section suspension.

7. Check the sensors if they are clean on the wheels. What is the battery voltage and the charging voltage? If that goes for 90 seconds under 11.6V, you will get such fault warning.
Take you time and read thru my website. The mainpage is German, but most of the links are English language.

[AllGo'n'Show]

Ok thanks, looking up that info right now.

One question, is BMW coolant special compared to the normal green **** I buy? Or are they the same stuff?

For 6 we were thinking wheel bearings possibly so when I take the wheels off for those sensors I will check the bearings.

For 7, the AntiLock sensors, Brake lining sensors, I can change those when I do my new brake setup this winter right? Thats if the Antilock one is dirty?

I plan on doing Brembo Slotted/Drilled Discs *more for look but performance aswell*, Harder pads then whateevr I have now so they don't dust up my new wheels in the spring, new brake fluid, stainless steel lines if not already, and possibly new calipers, stoptech or something new, not rebuilt. I will be doing the brake pad lining sensors then and maybe those antilock sensors aswell. Would that work?

[AllGo'n'Show]

Sweet the Mustard relay seemed to be the problem, alot of the tents and caps were cracked so I soldered them back up and threw it in and tried it out, no problems so far, will know tomorrow when i drive it around some more.

One down, bunch more to go.

[shogun]

BMW Coolant is NAP (nitrate, ammonia, phosphate)-free.

I just copy for you some old posts on coolant:

Do NOT run the Orange extended life Dexcool tradename or facsimile coolant in your BMW. Unless you purge all the existing Ethelyne Glycol based coolant from your system which isn't easy to do....the Orange based extended life coolant with chemically react and sludge over time and ruin your cooling system. The closest Ethelyne Glycol based low phosphate low silicate coolant out there is Zerox G-05...what I run. The BMW coolant which is preferred but pricey is really Zerox G-48 and only available outside BMW distributors in bulk. Either go with the Zerox G-05 or stick with the BMW blue coolant.
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use ZEREX long life (VAVOLINE Max Life) in my 1988 750. ZEREX G35 is the BMW european coolant.
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On the coolant issue I would run only the bmw
coolant if I were you. Its a small price to pay for as long as it lasts... And the bmw coolant does contain silicates, evidently they feel that the silicates are necessary to preven erosion of the aluminum surfaces and I would imagine head gaskets as well. The prestone extended life contains no silicates . I have been putting the prestone extended life in various customers cars for about the last 5 years. I'm not terribly impressed with it. It seems to find leaks that didn't exist before.
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the BMW blue is theoretically spec'ed by BMW to be compatible with cylinder head and/or block aluminum alloys and chosen composite gasket material in terms of silicates,
phosphate content etc. For the best insurance, use the BMW coolant...maximizes head gasket life..no pitting or corrosion to the
cylinder head etc. Me..though not precisely the same chemistry as
BMW blue.which is Zerex G-48 coolant only available in bulk outside BMW dealerships, I use Zerex G-05 which is close in specification to G-48 and approved for Mercedes..but not for BMW.
The critical issue is dump your coolant every two years and replenish with fresh fluid to liberate acidity/contaminants.
I strongly advise against using Dexcool in a BMW.
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Part Number Description
82 14 1 467 704 Antifreeze - 1 Gallon - Genuine BMW
$21.95
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ids/Treatments

For 7: probably you can wait till you change and then you can check again.

I use the original coolant from/for BMW only. Some more info here

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...lant-Flush.htm

[AllGo'n'Show]

Cool thanks.

[AllGo'n'Show]

What does the AntiLock sensor look like? I think it might be the sensor thats making all my problems come up besdies the brake linings light, Hopefully notthough.

[shogun]

Remove the left wheel and see for the cables of the ABS system and follow the lines, then you will find it and the counterpart.
It could also be that the wires are broken and therefore making trouble.
Do you have a Bentley Repair Manual? That is a must have item if you want to DIY.
All is mentioned there. Has about 1000 pages with detailed drawings and wiring diagrams. Will cost around 80 $ but worth every cent.
I have used the search on roadfly and typed in ABS sensor, please read all the postings
http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums...ural&o=default
Use the search here and on roadfly by typing in catch words, and you will find very good info.
Almost all problems have been covered.
Also see on my website close to the bottom under ABS faults the link.

[AllGo'n'Show]

Thanks again master

Getting all these problems solved is making for a much more peaceful non-dinging ride

[AllGo'n'Show]

Oh about the Bently Manual, I plan on getting one but just blew a bunch of money on the car, workout stuff, insurance, gas, paying bills off. So depending on the next couple of days, I may be without a Manual for awhile, I need to get a job again.