Good info! Thanks Shogun (& Javier).
I collected from various board representative data for battery drain.
I hope this might help you for checking:
Since practically every hollow space within an 8/7/5 is host to a control unit, many with memory and sensors, it is no wonder the E31/32/34 has such a high resting current drain. About 1 amp/hour drain about every 20 hours. Here's the figures:
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights off:
1.) Driver's door open: 4.8 - 5.0 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed: 4.1 Amps for 20 seconds then reduced to approx. 450-470mA for next 16 mins. then reduced to approx. 50mA
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights on:
1.) Driver's door open approx. 6.1-6.4 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed--approx. 5.9-6.1 Amps for 20 seconds, then reduced to approx. 2.5 Amps for the next 16 mins, then reduced to approx. 50mA
And here I copied once good one from Javier
Finding a short? - for beginners
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/91536/
Good info! Thanks Shogun (& Javier).
Ralph Mendoza Jr. - Long Beach, CA
NICE INFO, could you give us the normal current drain (how many amp. / hr) when the car stand still (doors locked, no alarm system, everything off), it is certainly a bit different from car to car but on average the E34 should have similar figures. My car is a E34-89.Originally Posted by shogun
I suspect that this drain is relatively high because last winter (very cold weather here in eastern Canada) i found out a dead battery after the car being at rest for 2 weeks.
Claude
Originally Posted by Claude
my e30 reads so low i can see the power spike that the led on the radio makes when it flashes, 30-40 ma is a good general number for most cars
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
Like myself, Thank you Javier and SHOGUN !! I have been looking for this basic info for about two or so hours....and you know what I been stumped at the readings, because I have been testing incorrectly... now back to out garage
Originally Posted by shogun
1989 525i Ghostly Grey
.... uuuum
what?
how is it physically possible for opening the door to drain 5 amps if all the lights are off?!??!?!?
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
it activates more then just the lights, lotsa weird things going on that most drivers don't notice, like how you can park shut the engine off and remove the key but until you open a door the windows/sunroof remain powered, once you open a door they power down, kinda cool so you can close up if you forget unless you have a women in the car, and then the door is open before the car stops moving regardless if she is going to be several more minutes ****ing around with_______ before departing the car
Originally Posted by BillionPa
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
yeah, but that 5A listing is AFTER the door is opened, so those relays shut off already. and also that would only seem like a feasible current draw if all those motors were operating simultaneously!
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
theres no telling what all kinda of **** is supposed to start up when the door is opened, not all of it hits the same on every car either from experience in tracking draws on different cars, if i spent enough time with some wiring diagrams i could figure out what's drawing that but it's not worth it, the newer the car the bigger pain in the ass to track with all of the weird body modules they are going to, e32/34s are not all that bad
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it