Failed Project

[PatrickPGH]

So I set out to replace almost my entire front suspension this weekend, shocks, upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends plus brake rotors and pads. Came to a halt when I was unable to remove 3 of the 6 bolts in the strut assembly. I hit them all with the impact wrench, soaked em in PB Blaster overnight and tried again the next morning. Wouldn't budge. I ended up just replacing the rotors and pads. An improvement for sure but not close to what I was hoping to accomplish. My thoughts are to now give up and have a mechanic do the rest or see if one will be able to break the bolts and I'll take it from there.

No real question here, just needed to admit defeat I guess.

Patrick

[Scott H]

Are you talking about the 19mm bolts on the bottom of the steering knuckle? You need a long breaker bar and pipe extension to achieve our friend LEVERAGE. They will slowly turn loose for you. Once you break them loose, use the impact to finish removing them.

So I set out to replace almost my entire front suspension this weekend, shocks, upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends plus brake rotors and pads. Came to a halt when I was unable to remove 3 of the 6 bolts in the strut assembly. I hit them all with the impact wrench, soaked em in PB Blaster overnight and tried again the next morning. Wouldn't budge. I ended up just replacing the rotors and pads. An improvement for sure but not close to what I was hoping to accomplish. My thoughts are to now give up and have a mechanic do the rest or see if one will be able to break the bolts and I'll take it from there.

No real question here, just needed to admit defeat I guess.

Patrick

[SRR2]

I wonder if your impact wrench isn't up to the job. A good I-R tool can produce 700 lb-ft of torque, which is going to be difficult to achieve with a breaker bar. I had one of those $29 specials for a while before it dawned on me that it was just not performing as well as I needed. Spent the bucks for a quality tool and have been completely satisfied. I have yet to run into anything that wouldn't either come apart, either unscrewing or by shattering the bolt. Then there's always high-speed diamond cutters.

[632 Regal]

I also used a breaker bar, they are pretty tight and was afraid the impact would just hack up the heads of the bolts.

[Rigmaster]

Another vote for our friend, Mr. Leverage. You'd be surprised how well the breaker bar/cheater pipe trick will work, especially when compared to a (cheap) air impact wrench.


Bret.

[Scott H]

Even a high volume dual hammer impact gun can pound the piss out of the head if it's on there really tight or if you don't have the socket squarely on the head.

I have used thick steel extension bars and a long breaker bar totalling about 3'. If I can get 200lbs of force on that bar, that is 600lb ft I am cranking which is enough to get a lot of things loose.

On average it is just easier and cheaper to buy a bar and find/buy some strong pipe than it is to make sure you have an air compressor and dual hammer impact gun unless you are going to use these tools often.

I also used a breaker bar, they are pretty tight and was afraid the impact would just hack up the heads of the bolts.

[PatrickPGH]

I tried the breaker bar but the problem I ran into was somehow keeping the socket on the bolt while exerting a force on the bar. I found that if I deviated from level the socket would slip off the bolt. Especially hard since gravity was working against my helper and I.

Here's a thought; can I remove the upper and lower control arms and the tie rod end from the car and pull the whole strut/spring assembly off? I'd then be able to turn it over and gain access to the bolts. Would this maybe work?

Patrick

Even a high volume dual hammer impact gun can pound the piss out of the head if it's on there really tight or if you don't have the socket squarely on the head.

I have used thick steel extension bars and a long breaker bar totalling about 3'. If I can get 200lbs of force on that bar, that is 600lb ft I am cranking which is enough to get a lot of things loose.

On average it is just easier and cheaper to buy a bar and find/buy some strong pipe than it is to make sure you have an air compressor and dual hammer impact gun unless you are going to use these tools often.

[TheGeak]

I tried the breaker-bar with a "cheater pipe"....all it did to mine was to break the end of a 1/2" breaker bar (Craftsman). I think the whole assembly actually let out an evil laugh when that happened.

[Scott H]

I know what you mean when you describe the socket falling off, but if you get the socket on there and put some tension on the breaker bar, you should be able to add your cheater bar and then work your hands to the end of your new extension. If you are wrenching at the same pitch that the bolt is at, you should be able to get a good crank without it slipping off.

Trying to detach everything and drop it from the car as one unit is going to be a mighty heavy and clumsy approach.......I personally wouldn't do it.

I tried the breaker bar but the problem I ran into was somehow keeping the socket on the bolt while exerting a force on the bar. I found that if I deviated from level the socket would slip off the bolt. Especially hard since gravity was working against my helper and I.
Patrick

[Jeff N.]

Use a 6pt socket and a breaker bar. Get some beefy 1/2" stuff. Problems keeping the socket on sound like either a 12 point, or a deep, or with an extension. You shouldn't need any of those things to crack them. Pull the rotor if you need to to extra room.

These are the 3 19mm bolts where the base of the strut arm attachs to the steering knuckle, right?

I have one of these and it's been able to crack anything and everything.