Definetlt torque the bolts, if not tight than they will start to wobble in the taper fit hole and cause you more problems later. Make sure the bolts for the sway bar links are still tight. Make sure the strut collar nuts are tight.
Just what the title says. I already replaced struts, springs, lower control arms and sway bar links. After I changed those things, the rattlings went away for a few days and clunk was minimal, but now it seems to be getting much worse. I inspected everything a couple of times, and the only thing I found was a ripped rubber boot on the control arm (the arm is pretty much new, but the brake dust shield cut the rubber up). Also, i don't have a torque wrench, so I'm pretty sure that the bolts are not torqued to spec (don't know if that would make a difference) What else can I check, and how do I chek it?
Definetlt torque the bolts, if not tight than they will start to wobble in the taper fit hole and cause you more problems later. Make sure the bolts for the sway bar links are still tight. Make sure the strut collar nuts are tight.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Well, by not torqueing the bolts properly I meant that I just tightened them as hard as I could, and I keep checking if anything's lose pretty frequently.Originally Posted by 632 Regal
How were the collar nuts and strut rod nuts tightened?
If either bit is loose, the strut or strut assembly will rattle around. With the car in the air, you will have a heck of a time reproducing the sound of a loose strut nut because the suspension hangs and the spring preload puts pressure on it.
Welcome to the .info, by the way. I saw that you're a member on bimmerforums -- yech...
just kidding
best, whit
Raise the car up you usually have enough room to reach in with a big pipe wrench in between the spring coils and tighten it down some more..
Originally Posted by Andryuha