this is probably better than using a holesaw to access it from the outside!
had this happen, i just stumbled onto this bulletin going through the oldest tis i have that may help some.......
this is probably better than using a holesaw to access it from the outside!
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
I had that happen to me with a car I bought cheap. Part of the reason for the cheap price was door locks were inoperative and one rear was locked. Messed with the interior panel very carefully for about half a day and managed to get it off the door without breaking anything. Then I could just grab the lock mechanism and unlock it.
good that I saved it
special repair note: if the rear door lock actuator fails when the door is locked, the door cannot be opened to replace the actuator.
The following procedure can be used to open the door without cutting the door trim panel.
- remove 3 screws holding the door trim panel at upper mount of grab handle, inside door release handle, and behind ashtray. Remove plastic door knob.
-open the window and , using a putty knife or trim removal tool, carefully pry the uppermost part of the door trim panel away from the chrome trim by the window opening to get the upper retaining clips to release. The insertion of the tool is eased somewhat by pressing down on the trim panel.
-carefully pry the trim panel back, and use a small block of wood or screwdriver handle to hold it away from the door.
-use a long, thin screwdriver to reach between the trim panel and the door, and peel the insulating sheet away from the door so that you can see the end of the door lock actuator.
-use a bar or a long, heavy screwdriver to reach inside the door and contact the white plastic end of the actuator that the lock linkage hooks up. Hit the end of the tool so that the white plastic end breaks off, disconnecting the the linkage from the seized actuator. The door can now be unlocked and you may proceed with the repair in the usual manner.
Last edited by shogun; 11-18-2017 at 05:53 AM.
Nice one moit!
Couldn't help but browse your photobucket- saw a few pics of interest of course but I've never seen any of these adapters:
Do you know if anyone makes them?
Also saw the LED dome light conversion your Japanese comrades developed, looks very nice indeed!
Join the Aussie 540i LE yahoo forum
08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!
That is available for the E32, maybe also fits E34.
That are the mods for the socalled Eastern Europe or bad road design to get the rear higher, also used by many which use the car as tow car.
Left side is the standard part, the others are the new ones. Brings the rear up by 20 mm.
Part numbers
# 4, guide support country version Eastern Europe, Nr. 33521091692, $61.80/piece
# 5, adapter, Nr. 33521091694, $48.27 inkl./piece
In case you use the harder springs # 14 Eastern Europe design, that will add another 15 mm.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...33&fg=45&hl=17
Hi Erich, I seem to remember on the original bulletin there is a diagram that shows the panel pried back and with the long screwdriver inserted..... I'll see if i have the original still
Hi Bill, just a reminder, did you find the original diagram?
The text I typed now:
E34 locked rear door procedure
Special repair note: If the rear door lock actuator fails when the door is locked, the door cannot be opened to replace the actuator. The following procedure can be used to open the door without cutting the door trim panel.
-remove 3 screws retaining door trim panel at upper mount of grab handle, inside door release handle, and behind ashtray. Remove plastic door knob.
-Open the window and, using a putty knife or trim removal tool, carefully pry the uppermost part of the door trim panel away from the chrome trim by the window opening to get the upper retaining clips to release. The insertion of the tool is eased somewhat by pressing down on the trim panel.
-Carefully pry the trim panel back, and use a small block of wood or screwdriver handle to hold it away from the door.
-Use a long, thin screwdriver to reach between the trim panel and door, and peel the insulating sheet away from the door so that you can see the end of the lock actuator.
-Use a bar, or a long, heavy screwdriver to reach inside the door and contact the white plastic end of the actuator that the lock linkage hooks up to. Hit the end of the tool so that the white plastic end breaks off, disconnecting the linkage from the seized actuator. The door can now be unlocked and you may proceed with the repair in the usual manner.
Last edited by shogun; 12-02-2014 at 04:10 AM.
Up with this thread and I hope Bill R. reads it and find the diagram he once had.
I still haven't found it yet Eric, i'm going to have to install every version of the TIS that i have and check each one, it was in one of the earlier tis's