High Beams and Fogs not working....

[rockyfeller]

I've got a set of HID wired in as low-beams and there have been no problems until now. Now the high-beams are not working. The blue high beam indicator comes on the dash but the lights don't come on. The fog-lights won't turn on with the low beams. The only thing working are the low-beam headlights (HID) along with all the acessory parking lamps. All fuses are intact, the high-beam bulbs are fine, they aren't blown. The fog-light bulbs are new and intact. I have no "high-beam" or "fog-light" bulb out warning on the dash either. Is this an issue with the LKM? How could I test it myself? If it were LKM wouldn't it warn me through the OBC somehow? I hate electrical problems! Help!

[uscharalph]

Has this problem just started or has it always been this way. The easiest way to check it out would be to swap out with a known good LKM. When my LKM needed work the CCM didn't warn me because the bulb was OK (I think). I'm so glad my brother's pretty good with a soldering iron.

[632 Regal]

with HID if you have a short or something you will probably fry a new LKM too.

[rockyfeller]

No never had this problem before, it just happened now....So if I get another LKM I could fry that too eh? Thaaat's great. What the freak do I do now?

[rockyfeller]

Javier or Tiger, any suggestions? What sucks is I just bought that resistor relay from you Tiger and it dosen't make sense to install it till I find out the problem with the headlights first. Great timing huh?

[Javier]

High Beams:

If fuses are OK, all, F2, F3, F13 and F14, your car is US (non Canadian) version, and the Blue pilot light turns on in the dash for both, flash and steady High beams. Yes I guess you have an LKM issue (an alternative is Crash Control, but let keep it for last resource). For info, high beams are not LKM monitored.

Follow these instructions:

Find some wire an prepare a fused jumper (a fuse with two long pieces of wire at each side). Connect with the jumper, power from the positive post in the engine compartment to the fuse F13 (Left High Beam should turn on). Do same to fuse F14 for right High Beam. If both lights work fine, remove both F13 and F14 fuses and have a friend to cycle on-off repeatedly the high beams (flasher will help). Feel the very weak click inside the LKM, this will confirm LKM relay is working. If relay is OK, no doubt crash control module has nothing to do with the problem and you need to re-solder the path of the LKM between Pin 2 and Pin 20 going trough High Beam relay main contact. See LKM connector picture below (in the link if not displayed).

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...ntid=886&stc=1

If no clicking, try the following. Replace fuses F13 and F14. Identify and remove crash control module, and fuse-jump with your new tool the pin 3 to pin 9 in its socket (see socket picture attached). Try High beams again, if working, Crash control module should be debugged, replaced or fixed.

If with Crash control bypassed (jumper from 3 to 9) lights don't work and no clicking in the LKM, remove LKM and test voltage at pin 1, it rise to 12Vdc when you turn on high beams, if not, high beam lever switch or lights switch or even fuse F3 or F2 socket are the things to check, but there should be no blue pilot. If do rise and no clicking, yes LKM problem and not as easy as to re-solder.



Fog Lights:

If fuses are OK, both F7 and F3, and you don't have pilot light indication for fog lights in the dash.

Follow these instructions:

Remove F7 fuse and have a friend to cycle on-off repeatedly the fog lights (if US you need high beams off). Feel the very weak click inside the LKM, this will confirm LKM relay is working. If relay is OK, you need to re-solder the path of the LKM between Pin 17 and Pin 15 and between Pin 17 and Pin 32, going trough fog lights relay main contacts and monitoring resistors. The problem should be before the resistors as if power reaches them and no lights on, you would have the gong.

If you feel no clicking, remove LKM and test voltage at pin 18, it rise to 12Vdc when you turn on fog lights, if not, fog lights switch or lights switch or even fuse F3 socket are the things to check. If do rise and no clicking, yes LKM problem and not as easy as to re-solder.

I feel that if fuses never blow out, there should be no fear to switch the LKM with a donor.

I have no idea what s involved with HID. I'm assuming the original wiring is intact until after the LKM.

Best luck,
Javier

[rockyfeller]

JAVIER you are THE MAN! I dub you the E34 electrical genius! How do you know all this stuff?? I knew you'd be the right person to ask. I'm going to try this tomorrow morning. Yes my car is the US version not Canadian. As I said, the fuses look fine, but I am going to try that fused jumper method anyways. That click you speak is an obvious sign of a relay at work so that should make sense. As for the "crash module", sorry for my ignorance but where is it located? Am I right to say the brown relay to the right of the CCM? Also how do I test the voltage at the pins when the module is plugged in? The module is plugged in so deep. Or am I to open the LKM? (Hope that question isn't too stupid). As for my HIDs, I don't consider them a factor at all. The wiring is straightforward and sound. I would have suspected them had the low beams been the culprit, but this is exactly the oppisite case. What is interesting here is how the high-beams AND fog-lights have both stopped functioning simultaneuosly which lead me to suspect the LKM. As a side note, the blue high beam pilot comes on but not the green fog-light pilot...Weird. Thanks so much for your efforts in explaining all this to me!! Hopefully I'll come to the bottom of this.

[Javier]

the fuses look fine, but I am going to try that fused jumper method anyways

The reason to have the fuse in the jumper is that depending on the side of the fuses F13 and F14 you connect, you may have lights connected without protecting fuse, so if there is a short, it will prevent the associated fireworks (doubt you have a short, but better to prevent).

As for the "crash module", sorry for my ignorance but where is it located?

at the right side of CCM (towards firewall), in the corner formed between CCM and LKM.

Also how do I test the voltage at the pins when the module is plugged in?

My mistake. I did not emphasize to test the voltage at the pin in the socket where LKM plugs in. Note that every time I asked you to test an LKM pin voltage I've asked first to remove the LKM. The idea is to test the signal arriving to the LKM socket, so don't need the LKM plugged in.

What is interesting here is how the high-beams AND fog-lights have both stopped functioning simultaneuosly which lead me to suspect the LKM.

The only common and evident relation is fuse F3 (Flash and fogs, as F2 is permanent Highs). Also you should have an interlocking circuit to block fogs under high beams. You said fuses are OK and I doubt control electronics is bad, so guess it is pure casualty. If it were low beams, power enters LKM trough Pin 2 for both, lows and fogs, but Highs are independent (power lines talking)

As a side note, the blue high beam pilot comes on but not the green fog-light pilot...Weird.

The Blue pilot is light up with the signal going to the LKM to turn on High Beams, for me, it means switches are generating the request, as it reaches the blue pilot. Signal, though, may be interrupted in crash control, or wiring to LKM (this is the reason to test LKM pin voltage as a last resource).

The green pilot is connected in parallel to the right fog lamp. If lamp doesn't get power, pilot won't light up.

Javier

[rockyfeller]

Again Javier, pure genius, THANKS! I'm testing my car now....I really do wish I had another E34 to do an LKM swap.

[rockyfeller]

Javier, followed your instructions and there is a click in the LKM when the high beam is switched but no lights. There is NO click when the fog-lights are switched though. Jumper fuse did nothing. I opened the LKM to examine (not like I know about much that's going on in there). The LKM looked absolutely pristine, like brand new. It didn't look like anything burned out or solder points were disrupted. I decided to remelt the solder at certain points anyways to see if that could cure. The crash module is fine no problems there. I didn't check voltage as I don't have a voltmeter and need to buy one. So I think I'm going to buy an LKM hoping to solve the problem, but you know my guts says it still may not work for some reason. Let's just hope...Any other ideas??