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Thread: sealing the cam chain tensioner plug on a M30

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,640

    Default sealing the cam chain tensioner plug on a M30

    I don't seem to have the trick to get this plug to seal. New washer ring in place, have it cranked down firmly but don't want to reef on it (aluminum to aluminum). Silly thing still weaps oil.

    Am I doing something wrong or should I just cave in and use some sealer on this thing?

    Had this problem on the last couple go-rounds with my various M30's. Maybe I should go read the FSM and see what they suggest...

    Jeff
    Bellevue WA
    90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
    86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,640

    Default

    bump
    Bellevue WA
    90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
    86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    14

    Default Got the same problem

    I've got a leak here as well. Haven't put a new washer on it. Sounds like Jeff wasn't having much success either with a new washer. Anyone knows a solution?
    1992 BMW 535iA trying to become The Ultimate Driving Machine
    2001 Volvo V70 T5 ASR Our first Volvo. Wife says we are Volvo for Life
    Sammamish, WA


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default Cave in, just put a little bit of good old hylomar on it and it will

    seal right up, still use the seal to though... unfortunately the genuis marketing guys at the local autozone have decide to no longer carry hylomar so i had to buy up all they had at this one... all their sealant products that were permatex are now loctite products instead.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff N.
    I don't seem to have the trick to get this plug to seal. New washer ring in place, have it cranked down firmly but don't want to reef on it (aluminum to aluminum). Silly thing still weaps oil.

    Am I doing something wrong or should I just cave in and use some sealer on this thing?

    Had this problem on the last couple go-rounds with my various M30's. Maybe I should go read the FSM and see what they suggest...

    Jeff


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    868

    Default I used hylomar on most of....

    the seals during the engine build and only found one tube at a premium auto parts store. That tube didn't last long during my project! While I was there I stocked up on one of almost every permatex product they carried that Autozone does not.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    seal right up, still use the seal to though... unfortunately the genuis marketing guys at the local autozone have decide to no longer carry hylomar so i had to buy up all they had at this one... all their sealant products that were permatex are now loctite products instead.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Hylomar is a Permatex product & I find it at all the Napas around here although I don't use it too often anymore. It use to be very popular with the BMW motorcycle guys & was recommended by the factory but that was many years ago.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,640

    Default ditto..that's what I ended up doing.

    Thanks for the tip on Hylomar...have to keep my eye's open. Our local chain is Kragen (dba Shucks in our area). Have to see what they do. Napa always seems to be a better option.



    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    seal right up, still use the seal to though... unfortunately the genuis marketing guys at the local autozone have decide to no longer carry hylomar so i had to buy up all they had at this one... all their sealant products that were permatex are now loctite products instead.
    Bellevue WA
    90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
    86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    14

    Default How do you prime the tensioner when putting the whole assembly back in

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff N.
    Thanks for the tip on Hylomar...have to keep my eye's open. Our local chain is Kragen (dba Shucks in our area). Have to see what they do. Napa always seems to be a better option.
    Thanks for the note on Hylomar. Will run out and get some of this.

    While searching for timing chain tensioner info. Found this link which indicates the tensioner must be re-primed when the plug is removed/reassembled.

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...hain+tensioner

    Bentley says to pour oil down the side of the timing chain cover so the the tensioner assembly is primed. I don't have the covers apart, do I just lube the whole assembly really well before installation?

    *** Update: Found the relavent info. Looks like I'll be adjusting my valves too :-)

    http://www.koalamotorsport.com/artic...ntensioner.asp
    Last edited by howardc64; 01-02-2006 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Found the info using google. Looks like good time to adj the valves :-)
    1992 BMW 535iA trying to become The Ultimate Driving Machine
    2001 Volvo V70 T5 ASR Our first Volvo. Wife says we are Volvo for Life
    Sammamish, WA


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
    Posts
    834

    Default

    I think you should sand surface it then replace it back .. seems that the surface is realy rough

    Edit: Fiber washers work fine on metal sufaces.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    868

    Default Dude....after what you just did to your engine....

    I'm not so sure many people are going to heed your words of wisdom! I'm just sayin what most people are thinking....that's all. Isn't that how Seinfeld made it big?

    I should just go back to work on my project. It keeps me out of trouble here...


    Quote Originally Posted by grave77
    I think you should sand surface it then replace it back .. seems that the surface is realy rough

    Edit: Fiber washers work fine on metal sufaces.

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