OT...anyone deal with swimming pool issues?

[632 Regal]

A different angle on the whole situation, kinda like going to the stealer vs doing it yourself.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf/dcboard....orum=246&page=

Hope it helps others as it helped me

[BigKriss]

the url died.

[632 Regal]

probably cause I was logged in, this will get you there

http://www.poolforum.com/

[TheGeak]

Advantage of having family in the pool business

[Zeuk in Oz]

What issues are you concerned about ?
Neither link is working.

[MBXB]

Thanks Jeff. I was just getting ready to check out salt chlorination systems.

[632 Regal]

I spent 300 bux in chemmies and acquired a pea soup mix, stuff is just wrong,

another link? http://www.poolforum.com/pf/dcboard...._id=2759&page=

(ps im clarkstondude)

anyways I went to a dollar store and spent 8 bux on bleach...whammo green is gone and almost clear completly.

waiting on my 75 dollar kit so I dont have stuff like this happen again.

[Zeuk in Oz]

Still can't get in to the site, but I gather from your posts that you are having problems with a salt chlorinator.
Problem with these is that nobody talks about the OH ion that gets released with the electrolysis of NaCl in solution which produces the Chlorine for sanitation and hydrogen (bubbles).
The OH molecule combines with the Na (Sodium) ion and forms NaOH (caustic soda) which means that with a salt chlorinator pool you are always adding acid.
When I put in my pool I investigated the various sanitation options.
The problem with chlorine, either straight or from salt is that chlorine is de-activated by sunlight, heat and alkalinity. Most pools are outside, are heated and if a salt chlorinator is being used, the elecrolysis unit is producing endless alkali. Chlorine is the disinfectant of choice for viruses but most pool contaminants are either bacterial or algal.
Therefore I put in a pool with heavy metal sanitation. It has a sacrificial electrode made of silver and copper which releases silver and copper ions into the water. Peroxide is then added to oxygenate these ions to make them more effective - silver kills bacteria and copper kills algae.
Both are at levels way below WHO guidelines for each in drinking water so it should be safe. This is why water was always stored in silver jugs and holy communion chalices were always gold.
The water also has the added benefit of not having a chlorine taste or smell.
Faecal contamination in this pool takes approximately 1 hour to be dealt with compared to 12-15 hours with chlorine.
I also do not have to constantly add acid to my pool.
I don't know if this system is available for backyard pools in the States but if it is it is worth considering.
Silver and copper sanitation is often used in air conditioning water towers in large buildings to prevent Legionnaires disease.

[tim]

Jeff,

I can help.

Zeuk has it right but up here you can get copper algaecide. You want the stuff that is a clear blue/green liquid. It's real strong and the Leslie's guy or whoever will try to talk you out of it.

Next, stop using chlorine tabs entirely. In these systems, the chlorinators never work right. The dirty little secret is that you have to use plenty of chlorine in a salt system, whenever the water temp is above 80 degrees or so. But you can't use certain compounds or you basically make algae food. But the vendors and contrators have no upside in giving anybody the right info to take care of the pool themselves so...

You want to avoid any chlorine compound that has a "di" prefix anywhere. Most of the shocks available in the little bags are calcium dichloride or the like. Don't use them or any other clarifier or stabilizer as the molecule bonds ammonia and stays in the system. Once your system becomes saturated it becomes impossible to create free chlorine, and the whole algae/nitrification process begins.

Backwash the filter bigtime. Find a big tub of Calcium Hypochloride and use that to shock the **** out of the pool. That chlorine test should be further off the chart than Ricky Williams' urine sample. Now backwash again and put in the Copper at the recommended dosage. All invertibrates including algea are killed by elemental copper, and yet it's harmless, even beneficial to humans. If you overdo it and the ph drops, you may end up with green hair though- unlikely- just respect the label, since above a certain concentration it doesn't do any more good.

Within a few hours the pool will clear up again. From now on, only use the calcium hypo to chlorinate the pool. Eventually you can use tabs again, but only in a pool floater. Best to do it in the early morning or evening. Just leave the chlorinator at the filter empty.

It will work.


ps. watch out for the bleach, while effective, it will mess with your ph and total alkalinity, which are the real keys to comfortable water. Calcium Hypo is the only way to go in either a fresh or saline system. When the water temp goes down, you'll hardly need any at all.

-tim

[632 Regal]

I dont have a salt system. After spending 300 bux to have a pea soup colored pool I was reading the site that I posted that no one can get to. Anyways these people believe in the 3 B's, borax baking soda and bleach... so since i have been fighting it for almost 2 months I decide to give their theories a whirl. Went and got 6 gallons of bleach and dumped in 5, dumped another in yesterday and brushed...today it is "literally" crystal clear...waiting for a test kit that they sell and I think after the big 8 dollars im convinced in their methods.