Reply With Quoteyour oil may be due to worn valve guides, i think some of the early m50s had crap guides, it's worth a check
5-10 Grand Master
If you were rebuilding an M50 for 6.5 psi...
This is "totally" hypothetical. But let's say you were pulling your M50 non vanos out of the car in the winter to rebuild it. You know you're going to do a headgasket (thicker, to drop compression). You're burning a oil, so you're thinking piston rings. What else would you replace while in there WITHIN REASON? We're not talking $999 forged JE pistons or new connecting rods etc. The motor is in great mechanical shape other than the burning of oil. It's a M50 non vanos so it's already got dual valve springs and good connect rods as well as 10.0:1 compression though I am probably going to go to ~9.5:1.
Budget is, let's say... $600 in parts. Labor is of no issue.
5-10 Grand Master
your oil may be due to worn valve guides, i think some of the early m50s had crap guides, it's worth a check
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
5-10 Grand Master
ps id think about head studs over the turd stock bolts for extra security
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
5-10 Grand Master
Originally Posted by winfred
Winfred I plan on ARP head studs.
Green Beret Special Ops
valve guides and seals since your burnin oil goods. Piston rings perhaps if thats the cause...i still lead to guides and seals.
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
3 Grand Master
about 2 yrs ago (2003) i was going to rebuild a regular m50. i made a long @ss laundry list of parts (bearings, rings, et cetera) and called them into bma. the best they could do was about 280 barebones plus shipping. it wouldn't be an exaggeration to say it would be a good bit more than that now (roughly 400 , maybe lower). $600 budget might be lowballing it a wee bit, especially if you are going to be thorough about doing right by your turbo setup.
Last edited by ryan roopnarine; 07-05-2005 at 09:47 PM.
5-10 Grand Master
Considering it's an M50 non vanos, it's more of a tank than the TU was. Connecting rods are RIDICULOUSLY large. The block chambers are better walled. The double valve springs help it rev +7000k. My bearing should be fine, I am really only thinking of rings, arp head stud conversion, head gasket, oil pan gasket, going to weld the oil pan nut on, and maybe valve guides and seals but I am not sure that's where i am burning the oil.
@ Jeff and Winred:
Anything "WRONG" with burning oil? Yeah it sucks to have to top it off every so often. I am only making 6.5 psi supercharged. I am not going to get pyscho and start upping boost (since its pulley based, thats difficult). So would you think the motor should be ok for now as-is? Anything WRONG in just burning some oil? I've got a catchcan installed, I've caught about 1/2 ounce of oil in the intake tract in about 3 months. So blow-by isn't too bad i guess.
Big Time Poster
Big end bearings, Main bearings, front
and rear main seal, oil pan gasket,
is this the sort of thing your talking about,
its all pretty cheap ?
originally by Rollingon20strong:
hey thanks jeff for the info good LOOking out
aka Dan and that cat ja ja ja takes care of my baby jaja
Big, Big Time Poster
Could be as simple as bad PCV valve cause the burning oil. How many miles is the engine?
Major Contributor
You didn't state your milage, so for a high milaged supercharged/turboed engine it may be an idea to consider a new oil pump since you are changing the pan gasket anyway.
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