voltage

[Whit]

Had voltage regulator replaced on my E32. The shop took out air boxes, belt tensioner, belt and finally radiator to replace it. They put in the new VR and put the car back together. Still has low voltage 12V to about 12.8V and now the A/C only works with the fan on high! If you adjust it any lower it does not work!
I am taking the car back for them to fix it, but what did they do wrong? Could there be a bad diode on alternator or loose belt for the low voltage? Something disconnected? Whats up with the A/C?

[632 Regal]

could be alternator brushes or the voltage regulator...that kind of stuff sucks

[Whit]

Both voltage regulators were checked and tested OK. Ideas?

[SRR2]

Could be a couple of things. Have you checked the battery? Shorted cells are possible, not common, but possible. The alternator might have shorted turns in either the rotor or stator. There may be a wiring problem between the alternator and the fusebox/battery connection.

You need to measure the current output from the alternator to know for sure about what's going on.

Why, after going to all that trouble to access the alternator, didn't you just put in a certified Bosch remanufactured one? If you're having trouble, and dont' know for sure that the regulator will fix it, it's taking a huge risk to decide, on the basis of insufficient evidence, that replacing the regulator is the answer. And that shop should be kicked in the ass for releasing the car to you in that condition.

[Whit]

Could be a couple of things. Have you checked the battery? Shorted cells are possible, not common, but possible. The alternator might have shorted turns in either the rotor or stator. There may be a wiring problem between the alternator and the fusebox/battery connection.

You need to measure the current output from the alternator to know for sure about what's going on.

Why, after going to all that trouble to access the alternator, didn't you just put in a certified Bosch remanufactured one? If you're having trouble, and dont' know for sure that the regulator will fix it, it's taking a huge risk to decide, on the basis of insufficient evidence, that replacing the regulator is the answer. And that shop should be kicked in the ass for releasing the car to you in that condition.

Battery is new. My wife and I are currently living in the Philippines, so 750 parts are pricey, but labor is cheap for the most part. However, the stealership here wants $600 US as a fee just to look at it, because I did not buy the car there! The fee is non-refundable and includes nothing--any repair bill would start after I paid that. Yeah, right. I use an indy shop that does not have this fee.
The extra work the shop did to remove the radiator and all the extra parts was about $14 US. Really. The cost of a new alternator here (or to get one shipped) is over $400. Now you know why I went with the VR only. Heck, that thing was $150 US.
The shop owner (who has a 735il) went out of town, and the guy who finished it up did not do a voltage check at the end. I suppose I could have the alternator rebuilt here, but it would probably take a couple of days and we need to drive the car.
Good ideas on the electrical issues, but I am still wondering about the A/C fan. Stry, I sometimes need to give the shops here hints on how to fix the car; otherwise, it can stay there for days. Anyway, they will fix it for free, but I may need to give them some hints so that they can do it quickly. Anyone other ideas?

[Whit]

bump

[Javier]

At alternator output? At battery? Engine running? not running? There is not enough info in your post as to form an opinion. Yes you may have more than a VR issue in your alternator, open diodes is the must probable (easy check), shorted rotor/stator, you can also have loose connections from the alternator to the battery.

Javier

[Whit]

Voltage measured at battery (under rear seat) and at post near fuse box (under hood). The OBC test (test number 9) showed the same low voltage. I suppose that voltage should be checked right at the alternator next.
Anyone have any ideas about the A/C fan?

[JonE]

If you're talking about the cabin fan and it only works on position 4 with or without the AC on, it probably is the "sword" resistor. Most early E34's had the "sword" type final stage resistor, later ones had a resisitor pack. Check Bruno's site for more information. http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...ical/sword.htm

[ryan roopnarine]

i post this

http://bmwe32.student.utwente.nl/sea...eRegulator.htm

not because i think you don't know how to measure voltage, you obviously do. its just that here is a representative sample of your car , m70 e32, putting out a significantly differing voltage.