uh...take lots of pictures so when we have to do the same job it will be much easier?
I'm working on replacing the front window rail (just behind the door brake) on my '95 525iT. Found out that the rail was kinked by my door brake, due to the weak door metal in door brake area. The kinked rail caused my glass to come down slowly and ultimately killed the window motor.
The window motor has been replaced and the old rail came out real easy.
Now I'm having a hard time installing the new rail. Since I can't see where the new rail clips in at the top, the installation is getting frustrating. Does anyone have any tips on making this job easier? The Bentley manual has virtually no info on replacing a rail.
uh...take lots of pictures so when we have to do the same job it will be much easier?
Bellevue WA
90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy
Lmao
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
this is about the best I can do for you until you post all them pictures for us...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...06&hg=51&fg=10
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Has anyone else done this rail installation lately that has any additional thoughts to share?
I dont remember anyone doing this at all here...and I have been here since the age of dino oil.
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Wow, 632. You must be as old as I am , as I am from the days of dino oil, too.
Anyway, I got the new rail installed tonite. Took a bit of thought and some grease on the top of the new rail to help get it installed. The window now goes up and down without binding!! I'll post some pics tommorrow.
A little late now... but for the next person who has to try this:
I used to work for a car restorer and his secret was silicone spray to lubricate the rubber to slide it in. Flat wooden tools can help push it in, and you want to make sure it is really in there all the way because the rubber can kind of mold into position (the wrong position) and it's harder to fix it later.
I recall following some kind of writeup that I found, maybe on Bruno's site, that was mostly but not completely helpful. I suspect that everyone who does it struggles through it in a most ungraceful manner and is embarassed to post the pictures of the amazing kludges he had to go through to make it work!
Robin
72 Chevy K10
01 E39 M5
I did this job... sort of. My door brake - broke. Kinked up the window rail, causing the window to lower then - WHAM! ...drop like a rock into the door.
I ended up taking the door completely off. Mianly just to be able to see and to get my arm contorted properly to fit in there and get it out, straighten it up, and get it back in.
No fun.
Thanks again for all the replies. Well, I finally got a chance to take some pictures. They can be viewed via the following URL:Originally Posted by atomicDog
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/happee_feelings/album?.dir=/af9d
The first two pictures show the old damaged rail I removed from the driver's door. The red arrow points to the rail area damaged by the door brake that worked it's way lose when the door brake was yanked as a gust of strong wind pulled open the door. The next picture shows the repaired door/door brake area using the Koala Motorsports stainless steel plate. That plate is truly a well made piece!! The last pic shows the newly installed front door rail thru the access holes in the door. Once I greased the top of the rail and installed the new rail by following behind the front rubber window track, the new rail installed quickly and easily!! Hope this helps someone else with this issue.
Last edited by atomicDog; 04-25-2005 at 08:24 PM.