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Thread: Front Strut Mounts, How Long should they last?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Reno, NV
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    128

    Default Front Strut Mounts, How Long should they last? - Update

    I think that mine are done! First of all I get a rattling sound as I drive. I have re-tightened everything after the Sachs Kit install. When I push down on the side of the car, the strut rod pushes upward. Is this the sign that the Strut Mount is broken? that is one pricey little part at $95 bucks (BMA price), not to mention I might as well change both sides out if one broke the other is about to.
    Last edited by Badkrma; 04-21-2005 at 10:26 AM.

  2. #2
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    Dec 2003
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    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    the realoem page is dead, anyways are you sure you have #6 in the picture I cant pull up? LOL I'll try to get the pic for you. Mine are missing and I have the same exact problem.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  3. #3
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    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  4. #4
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    Reno, NV
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    I can not remember if I had one. All I know is that after the install everything was great and now I have that Frik'n rattle.

    I thought that the front mounts rarely broke down, hence the reason for the post.

    Thanks to all if you can help.

    Jeff, I read your post on my search, is that what it turned out to be?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    The rattle could be from a dust shield hitting the rotor as you navigate over bumps. I've currently got this problem. Bending the shield back a bit ameliorated things, but I still hear it with the windows down (and hitting rough pavement). It was caused by me standing the strut housing up, supported by the dust shield bottom, to manipulate the spring compressor and remove the top nut (while doing the sachs kit). Mine's FUBAR'd....which means I've got to pull the bearing in order to replace it; and I've artfully been putting that off, both due to not having much time and lacking a decent money supply at the moment.

    So, check the dust shields. See if you can replicate the sound you're hearing by tapping the dust shield against the rotor while the car is on the ground (yes - it's harder to do, but in fact, mine are WORSE on the ground than they are in the air -- funky geometry, eh?).

    best, whit

  6. #6
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    Oct 2004
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    Also, the strut mounts could be shot as well, but I think they'll "crunch" when done, versus rattle. You should be able to get ~ 150k out of the fronts. Those suckers are *RIG-ID*, so if you can physically manipulate it, I'd replace it before you've got a hole in your hood, or worse.

    best, whit

  7. #7
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    Thanks Whit.

    I am actually thinking that I am missing the washer on the bottom side. I do not recall one there when I changed the stuff out. Might break down and get the mounts also, since I have 160K on the car. I am thinking back to the Sachs Kit install and the billstien struts I removed had a large diam. strut shaft and most likely didn't need a washer to keep it from pushing through the strut mount. I am going to jack it up tonight when I get off work and see. Thank you for your help.

    Stephen

  8. #8
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    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bellingham
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    380

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    Quote Originally Posted by Badkrma
    I am actually thinking that I am missing the washer on the bottom side. I do not recall one there when I changed the stuff out. Might break down and get the mounts also, since I have 160K on the car. I am thinking back to the Sachs Kit install and the billstien struts I removed had a large diam. strut shaft and most likely didn't need a washer to keep it from pushing through the strut mount. I am going to jack it up tonight when I get off work and see. Thank you for your help.
    Yeah, that sounds likely. The washer on the bottom is pretty big, and without it, the nut on top might bottom out on the threads before the top is actually tight. The washer also serves as a surface the bumpstop and crush against.

    The upper strut bearings are reportedly very long lived. 200k miles easy. I know mine at 168k still spun smoothly without any binding. A failed upper strut bearing usually makes itself known with a consistent creaking when turning the steering from lock to lock.

  9. #9
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    Ah -- I didn't even think of that! Good stuff...

  10. #10
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    Well I had a chance to look at it last night I am missing #3 as you said Jeff. Will Just misisng that cause the problem? I looks like the strut shaft is a large enough diam that it won't slide into the sleeve on the strut mount. Help! If I have to take it all apart again, I want to make sure it is fixed.....

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