or equivilent
Originally Posted by RockJock
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Last edited by RockJock; 08-31-2009 at 08:44 AM.
or equivilent
Originally Posted by RockJock
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
what the hell dose that mean, i got that **** starting also
You will have to read up a bit but the shyt does work AND you can paint right over rust. Not real pretty in an obvious location but I think as a temporary fix its good.Originally Posted by kyleN20
Read up
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
I have bit of rust starting around the tail-lights, on the inside. Just looks like surface rust at the moment. I meant to spray it with rust converter or something, but completely forgot about it until now...
had the same problem on mine too. Itīs very common on E34īs. Thereīs only one permanent solution for rust...CUT it out and replace with new metal. If treated properly, the weld seem will never rust. I cut out the seams on both corners too. It never came back.
i myself had a thought or like doing all the door bottems with somthing like this, or even rhino liner, and keeping it even just like an inch from the bottem of the doors, on all doors, so it looks kinda legit, and cant be touched, any thoughts?
I guess the point is to get it quick, before it gets your car. Surface rust can be removed reasonalbly easily. One needs to get in early, 'cos;Originally Posted by kyleN20
Perforation is harder, especially when two panels butt up to each other. Removing all the oxidsed metal would still work, but in practice one simply cannot in these situations, unless you cut everything away very zealously there's always something in there hidden from view. My attack is to get it as best I can, use good shyt (whatever shyt u use) and coat yt (love yur spelling regal632) with a urethane sealer (I use black windscreen goo-nothing silcone based!) a month after you applied it - after the car has been dry for at least a week- and after its been sitting in the sun so its nice and hot, I reckon u might be in witha chance.
Any water still in that spot will be a problem once it gets sealed. Can only guess that some joints might take weeks to dry out in a hot dry environment...
Unless u do this, its only a matter of time.
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08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!
Rust is made worse by lots of rain, salt and previous smash repairs... we get less hassles from RUst in Australia. My E34 is almost 17 and she's great. My previous 86 E28 had rust under the bootlid seal and around the tail lights. I believe E30s are very simliar in contruction style and problems.
The bulb holders would need replacing every year so I reckon the poor old panels had very little hope back there. The rear-end construction was relatively poor (in comparison to the E34)
Best of luck killing it!
GP
Last edited by genphreak; 04-05-2005 at 12:39 AM.
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08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!