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Thread: Need help with Sach Kit installation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Reno, NV
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    Default HELP!!!! I CAN'T GET THE REAR SHOCKS OFF!!! Need help with Sach Kit installation

    I have done several searches and did not see it ask or answered. I have a 1990 535 with an automatic if that makes a difference.

    1. On the front struts, do I need to fill tube with oil as per the repair manual?

    2. What do I do for the rear bump stops? I have an email into Sachs, but I am starting the project.

    Also,

    When doing the upper and lower Thrust/control arms, did any of you put the 150 lbs in both front seats and 150 lbs in the center of the rear seat before finishing tightening the bolts?

    Thank you.

    Stephen
    Last edited by Badkrma; 03-12-2005 at 10:46 AM.

  2. #2
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    Jan 2004
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    So.Calif ( L.A. Beach Area)
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    Default

    .

    1. On the front struts, do I need to fill tube with oil as per the repair manual?

    Your Sach's struts are sealed, you old ones had oil in them

    2. What do I do for the rear bump stops? I have an email into Sachs, but I am starting the project.
    Just claen them and reuse them

    Also,

    When doing the upper and lower Thrust/control arms, did any of you put the 150 lbs in both front seats and 150 lbs in the center of the rear seat before finishing tightening the bolts?

    I just torqued them then drove the car and checked a week later nothing moved... check again at 5k ...nothing moved

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    1,235

    Default Some answers for you:

    Quote Originally Posted by Badkrma
    1. On the front struts, do I need to fill tube with oil as per the repair manual?
    No - just make sure the collar nut is as tight as can be or else you'll get clunks. The sway links have to be really tight too (hopefully you got new ones to go with your other new parts).

    Quote Originally Posted by Badkrma
    2. What do I do for the rear bump stops? I have an email into Sachs, but I am starting the project.
    I don't know.
    Quote Originally Posted by Badkrma
    When doing the upper and lower Thrust/control arms, did any of you put the 150 lbs in both front seats and 150 lbs in the center of the rear seat before finishing tightening the bolts?
    I did the force/moment balance on this a year or two ago. Turns out if you put something like 50 lbs directly over each wheel you'll get the same loading as the "Fully loaded" case in Bentley. I used a bag of sand on top of a soft blanket. It hardly changed the ride height at all with the stiffer springs, so it might not really matter. For the rear, I think you need 150 or 200 lbs in the trunk to equal "fully loaded", but you don't have to torque the rear under load so the 50 lbs on the front wheel humps is all you need.

    HTH

    Robin
    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Reno, NV
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    Default

    Thanks. I did get new sway links. Hope to have it all done this weekend, then just wait for my wheels to get back from repair (17's had a little taco in 2 of them) and I will be ready to go.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Badkrma
    ...(17's had a little taco in 2 of them)
    Did you crash into a Del Taco or something?

    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Default

    http://www.statch.com/users/wlowel/e34suspension.pdf

    I kept the full rear bumps...they work fine on the "upper" setting.

    If you don't have a set of ramps to tighten the thrust/control arms under load, get out the spare tire and lower the side in question onto it. It's very important that you preload those bushings before torquing them - they've got to be "set" to the ride height. If they're torqued with the weight off of the wheels, the bushings get set pointed downwards, you'll get a messed up ride, and you'll have to replace the bushings again in a few thousand miles...


    best, whit
    Last edited by Kalevera; 03-11-2005 at 11:19 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
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    Default

    Defintely torque down those bolts as soon as possible. I had to wait a two weeks while driving around, so I am hoping I didnt mess them up =x. Of course, it was easy for me as I had access to a full shop with alignment rack for free. =)

    I also used the full rear bump stops.

    www.KaRealtySF.com
    Build Date: 05-1995 /Engine: m50tu /Automatic Transmission /ABS /NO ASC /Open Differential /EAT Chip

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bellingham
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by califblue
    1. On the front struts, do I need to fill tube with oil as per the repair manual?

    Your Sach's struts are sealed, you old ones had oil in them
    Are you sure about that?

    I mean, I definitely don't know - but my Konis called for oil in the strut tube.

    All the struts for this car are sealed inserts. I don't know why one application would call for oil in the strut tube and another not.

    From what I learned here in trying to deciper the Koni instruction's heiroglyphs, a small amount of oil is necessary in the strut tube to act both as a water displacement mechanism and to aid in heat transfer. I know the old (sachs) strut I pulled out of my driver's side had barely any oil in it compared to the passenger side, and above the oil level the insert was quite rusty.

    I don't think it could hurt anything. I'd do it just to be safe.

  9. #9
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    Jan 2005
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    Reno, NV
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    Default

    I have tried all that I have read on this board, Pry Bar, Hammer, Lube, Lube, Lube, Hammer, Pry Bar, Heat....... Help Please.....

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