the problems from tonight
When I tested the sensors side by side the new one showed >1000 ohms while the old one showed >500,000 ohms.
I did not check the 'groove' but I will look at that before I sleep. When I put it on it didn't look like there were any options to rotate it.
I think the battery is too dead to turn the engine over now. I pulled all the plugs and turned it over for a while. I smelled gas but the smell was NOT overpowering. It was definitely there. The spark wasn't there for the most part but while I was holding the plug to a bolt, I saw a spark jump to the bolt but I couldn't replicate it. The the starter started clicking loudly because I think the battery could only power the solenoid.
I checked three pins. 26 good. 48 good when key in ignition. 54 BAD! nothing. what does this mean?
I hope I didn't fry my starter. I will put a better charger on it tonight.
You will not be able to rotate and fix it, ...
either it is the one for your car or it is not, only one position, but if the screw is removed, you can rotate and hold it in place wile someone else try starting the engine. As you know, the sensor looks like a metal can, in the top of the can there is a wire going out, in the side, there is a bracket with a hole to fix it to the engine, and in the bottom of the can, there is a line, that protrudes slightly from the can bottom surface (I'll try to post a picture tonight). This line, should have an specific alignment with the tooth on the wheel near the damper.
I do agree to check for pulsing before sticking your head under the engine to check it, if no signal there, and being the sensor new and within resistance parameters, I would say it is not the one for your car. You can verify by loosing the sensor from its place and comparing the relative position of the bracket and the groove, against the old one.
Javier
Javier- I didn't see a groove but I did see a marking on the old sensor. I didn't check to see if it was pulsing correctly when I replaced it. I had the intake manifold off and I didn't want to suck in any dirt. I guess I should have checked for pulsing from the DME harness post haste. If it isn't pulsing, through pins 16 & 43, I'll remove it and see if I can unscrew/rotate it at all. I hope that is the answer.
Now that I have the proper diagram (I hope) for all the DME pins, I'll check all the vitals tonight.[/QUOTE]
Halfway there for work, moreso for the posts
The car started tonight!
The battery was fully charged. I tested the CPS and it *was* giving off pulses (thanks anyway Javier). Then I checked for spark and definitely got it. I put it all together and cranked the engine-Nothing. Then I jumped the fuel pump and it the beast purred like a kitten. Then I immediately put the fuel pump fuse back but the engine died. no power is getting to the fuel pump. I tried jumping the fuel pump before I replaced the CPS and it didn't run so we are headed in the right direction.
I can jump the pump at the relay too, so there must be a problem at the relay (which is brand new for those of you just joining the conversation). Looking at the wiring diagram, the relay coil is supposed to get voltage from the main relay, and pin 1 on the DME (either supplies voltage or opens up a ground [bentley 160-6]). I am definitely getting power from the main relay; the socket for fuel pump relay pin 85 (which should go to DME pin 1) acts as a ground (12 volts strong between the relay coil sockets). Last factoid: When the engine is off, I get about 50,000 ohms between fuel relay sockets 86 and 85 (not the relay, just the sockets it plugs into).
So experts I need your help:
What does pin 1 on the DME do for me: negative voltage or ground?
How do I test it? Then what do I do when it fails the test (it probably will)?
Did the CPS ruin something in the DME?
Is there a short between the relay sockets, bleeding out precious amperage for my fuel pump relay?
Should I just put a wire in there, instead of the fuel pump relay, and pray that I never get in an accident (oh yeah and don't leave the key in the on position when the engine isn't runnning)?
stevebuk-carsoft pin numbers are not correct for my car. There are all sorts of sockets missing, and unused sockets in use.
I might be able to use DME wiring diagrams specifically related to the fuel pump or DME pin 1, if anybody has those.
Come on, this is not the way to fix it, search for the bug....
Let's follow some plan:
1.- I do not understand what do you mean "Then I immediately put the fuel pump fuse back", if you remove the fuel pump fuse, how did you get it running, the normal way to test the pump is to bypass (bridge) the power contact at the pump relay 30/87, but you need the fuse in place to run the pump. So please check fuse carefully, also measure with an ohm meter the fuel pump fuse F23. You can test the pump by connecting with a jumping wire, socket pins corresponding to FP relay pins 30 and 87. This will confirm proper operation of all FP circuit but the FP relay. Start the car with jumper in place, this will also confirm every thing is OK but the FP relay operation.
2.- Check your FP relay, you can apply Battery + to pin 86 and ground to pin 85 and feel it clicking. At the same time, connect the ohm meter to pins 30 and 87 and see the power contact closing (I mean, when you apply voltage to coil terminals 86/85, meter should read 0 ohms from terminals 30 to 87, and open circuit when coil is de energized.
3.- You already confirmed you get 12 Vdc at pin 86 of the FP relay, but have not confirmed DME is connecting to ground pin 85 (ground and - Battery are the same). You can confirm it feeling for the click in the FP relay at the specific moments it should energize, but first, discard a damaged relay per 2. If it turns out to be that DME is not activating the relay properly, have the DME fixed. May be it is only that relay pins 86 and 85 were accidentally connected, and output transistor actuating FP relay got fried (I doubt it as it must probably fail short circuiting causing the FP relay be permanently energized. Only huge amount of energy (a sustained short circuit in FP) would damage to open the transistor or the printed circuit board pads. In any case, you can take a look inside DME from pin 1, looking for evidences of such damage.
Do not risk your safety bypassing the FP relay
Javier