5/16'' gap between flex joint and trans. output flange?

the gap between the flex disc in my car (if it is bolted to one of the flanges) and the driveshaft is about 5/16 inch. is this normal. I've done the flex disc on this car before, but i don't remember if there was that much of a gap.

some background.

the car is a 7/91 525i with 4l30e gm transmission.
about 4 months ago i bought a used transmission for this car from vines automotive. i asked them twice if the item would fit an e34 (the used box is from an e36). they said yes, so long as you change the output flange (didn't tell me this until i went to pick it up). they also instructed me to change the output tailcone. i did such. both cone and flange on both transmissions measure to approximately the same length when swapped. the used transmission fits perfectly into the transmission mount holes. if the aforementioned gap is too big, what could have possibly happened? thanks.

Loosen the big nut at the slipjoint in the middle of the driveshaft by the center bearing and slide the driveshaft forward until the gap goes away, then tighten the big bushing/nut again.

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Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine

the gap between the flex disc in my car (if it is bolted to one of the flanges) and the driveshaft is about 5/16 inch. is this normal. I've done the flex disc on this car before, but i don't remember if there was that much of a gap.

some background.

the car is a 7/91 525i with 4l30e gm transmission.
about 4 months ago i bought a used transmission for this car from vines automotive. i asked them twice if the item would fit an e34 (the used box is from an e36). they said yes, so long as you change the output flange (didn't tell me this until i went to pick it up). they also instructed me to change the output tailcone. i did such. both cone and flange on both transmissions measure to approximately the same length when swapped. the used transmission fits perfectly into the transmission mount holes. if the aforementioned gap is too big, what could have possibly happened? thanks.

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thanks for chiming in, bill, but my driveshaft is the one with the big bolt and u-joint assembly in the center, not the adjustable setup. thanks though. i'm just worried that i'm going to have to deal with vines again about this.

i'm sorry, maybe i spoke too soon. do all of the shafts that attach with a guibo have provisions for length adjustment? i took off and replaced the center bearing, but i don't recall seeing the style that I associate with the big nut in the middle on my car

this one is mine
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=26&fg=10
thanks.

I think you're right Ryan, in the case of yours, I seem to recall there is enough movement at the end where the cv joint is. If you loosen the center support bolts you should be able to slide the whole shaft forward

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine

i'm sorry, maybe i spoke too soon. do all of the shafts that attach with a guibo have provisions for length adjustment? i took off and replaced the center bearing, but i don't recall seeing the style that I associate with the big nut in the middle on my car

this one is mine
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=26&fg=10
thanks.

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i sat there and pulled the thing until the cows came home but it didn't seem to give any. i'm going to go back out in about a 1/2 hour and try it again. i would find it hard to believe that the cv would compress that much. thanks though.

If all else fails then you might take that big bolt out of the center of the driveshaft , mark the 2 halves with a marker, separate them and put a 5/16 spacer inside the end of the driveshaft socket then slide them back together and put the bolt back in, or a longer bolt if needed to compensate... I'm guessing that the centering bearing at the front of the driveshaft where it goes into the output from the trans isn't seating all the way either?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine

i sat there and pulled the thing until the cows came home but it didn't seem to give any. i'm going to go back out in about a 1/2 hour and try it again. i would find it hard to believe that the cv would compress that much. thanks though.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bill R.

If all else fails then you might take that big bolt out of the center of the driveshaft , mark the 2 halves with a marker, separate them and put a 5/16 spacer inside the end of the driveshaft socket then slide them back together and put the bolt back in, or a longer bolt if needed to compensate... I'm guessing that the centering bearing at the front of the driveshaft where it goes into the output from the trans isn't seating all the way either?

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its seating enough at the centering bearing to maintain a straight driveshaft geometry even with the centering bearing hanging really loose. i'll take the shaft out of the car, take it home with me, and see if a friend and i and our kung fu grip can get it to stretch anymore. at this point i'm trying to build a case to complain to vines about it, and see if they maybe fess up about the cone making the assembly too short, but if i can get it to work without dropping a transmission a 3rd time, i'll take it. the pollen is so nasty here that i don't want to take the tailcone off for more than about 30 seconds or it'll get particulate inside the transmission. would a washer of suitable quality work as a spacer? thanks. i know i'm monopolizing your time with my questions.

A washer should work fine or a couple of them, the splines should be deep enough for there to be plenty of shaft engaging.... You also might want to loosen the trans mount and the motor mounts and see if you can move the assy back any more to shrink that gap.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine

its seating enough at the centering bearing to maintain a straight driveshaft geometry even with the centering bearing hanging really loose. i'll take the shaft out of the car, take it home with me, and see if a friend and i and our kung fu grip can get it to stretch anymore. at this point i'm trying to build a case to complain to vines about it, and see if they maybe fess up about the cone making the assembly too short, but if i can get it to work without dropping a transmission a 3rd time, i'll take it. the pollen is so nasty here that i don't want to take the tailcone off for more than about 30 seconds or it'll get particulate inside the transmission. would a washer of suitable quality work as a spacer? thanks. i know i'm monopolizing your time with my questions.

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bump for anyone with anything else to say. going to shoot an email at vines tomorrow after a practice lsat.