Help plz..RF brake caliper not bleeding?!
Hi all,
Apologies folks, this is not my BMW 5, but see if you can provide some help on the wife's 02 Honda CRV.
Last week, I changed the pads and front rotors on my wife’s 02 CRV LX. While pushing the brake piston in on the RF side, I ripped the rubber gasket on the piston, so I had to order a new one. I disconnected the caliber from the brake line and ordered a new caliber online (New remanufactured). It cam the next day, and the RF brake line was disconnected for about 36 hours. The new caliber came in and I installed it, and started the bleeding process. All other 3 calipers bled fine, i.e., I hooked up a clear hose to the bleeding screws, and initially there were some bubbles, but after 6-10 pedaling cycles, they went away. The RF is a problem child. After about 2 days of bleeding, and my wife’s feet getting numb, every time I open the RF bleeding screw for about 1 second and close it back, large pockets of air come out. Not even bubbles..
One thing to note, on the other 3 calipers, once I open the bleed screw, for a second or a little more, fluid keeps coming out. On the RF caliper, once I open the bleed screw and decide to keep it open for more than a second, the brake fluid stops coming out?? Some of my hypothesis perhaps you can help me with a solution plz..
1. Bad caliper?
2. Bad brake line?
3. Too much air in the system because I left the brake line open for 36 hours? And I need to bleed more? But we must have done over 50 pedal cycles and still the same scenario..
4. Is the caliper stuck somewhere, and I need to take it out and see what the blockage, since it’s new and the piston is retracted all the way?
5. There is a leak in the system somewhere?
6. Do I need to buy a professional bleeder from the store?
7. The "new remanufactured caliper" is almost identical to the old one, except for the where the brake line attaches to it. The groove to keep the brake line in place (so when tightening the brake line to caliper screw the brake line would not move) is on the bottom. Versus the top. which looks like it was meant to be for the left side of the car. But not sure if this is causing the problem. The brak line is tightening at 75 degrees, versus about 45 degrees with the groove on the top. But I adjusted to be as close to 45 degrees, but no improvement to the bleeding..
Sorry for the long e-mail, but thanks for any help. So I can put this together and get the wife on the road again..
Francino
How exactly are you bleeding it? What is the procedure you and your wife are using?
Quote:
Originally Posted by oufyaba
Hi all,
Apologies folks, this is not my BMW 5, but see if you can provide some help on the wife's 02 Honda CRV.
Last week, I changed the pads and front rotors on my wife’s 02 CRV LX. While pushing the brake piston in on the RF side, I ripped the rubber gasket on the piston, so I had to order a new one. I disconnected the caliber from the brake line and ordered a new caliber online (New remanufactured). It cam the next day, and the RF brake line was disconnected for about 36 hours. The new caliber came in and I installed it, and started the bleeding process. All other 3 calipers bled fine, i.e., I hooked up a clear hose to the bleeding screws, and initially there were some bubbles, but after 6-10 pedaling cycles, they went away. The RF is a problem child. After about 2 days of bleeding, and my wife’s feet getting numb, every time I open the RF bleeding screw for about 1 second and close it back, large pockets of air come out. Not even bubbles..
One thing to note, on the other 3 calipers, once I open the bleed screw, for a second or a little more, fluid keeps coming out. On the RF caliper, once I open the bleed screw and decide to keep it open for more than a second, the brake fluid stops coming out?? Some of my hypothesis perhaps you can help me with a solution plz..
1. Bad caliper?
2. Bad brake line?
3. Too much air in the system because I left the brake line open for 36 hours? And I need to bleed more? But we must have done over 50 pedal cycles and still the same scenario..
4. Is the caliper stuck somewhere, and I need to take it out and see what the blockage, since it’s new and the piston is retracted all the way?
5. There is a leak in the system somewhere?
6. Do I need to buy a professional bleeder from the store?
7. The "new remanufactured caliper" is almost identical to the old one, except for the where the brake line attaches to it. The groove to keep the brake line in place (so when tightening the brake line to caliper screw the brake line would not move) is on the bottom. Versus the top. which looks like it was meant to be for the left side of the car. But not sure if this is causing the problem. The brak line is tightening at 75 degrees, versus about 45 degrees with the groove on the top. But I adjusted to be as close to 45 degrees, but no improvement to the bleeding..
Sorry for the long e-mail, but thanks for any help. So I can put this together and get the wife on the road again..
Francino
On your crv the bleeding order is
ldrivers side front first then passenger side front then passenger side rear then drivers side rear. Get a clear plastic or glass bottle and put some brake fluid in the bottom of it, then take your hose that you have connected to the bleeder and stick the end in the fluid in the clear container. Don't have her pump the pedal at all at first, just open the bleed valve and have her push the pedal to the floor, wait until no more fluid or air comes out,then close the valve , then have her let the pedal back up, repeat this until most of the air is out, then you can pump the pedal rapidly and put a lot of pressure and release the pressure until no more comes out.
Don't try to close the line before the pedal goes down like you were doing.http://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/crvbleed.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by oufyaba
Procedure..
She pumps the brake real hard 5-6 times and holds firmly on the 6th time..then i open the bleed valve very quickly ~1 second and close it..i try to close it before the pedal reached the floor from what I read somewhere....of course i have a clear hose over the valave and watch bubles go out..but the RF cliber, some fluid comes out, and lots of air..if I keep the RF air valve open, then the brake fluid will stop poring out after 2 seconds or so..?? any suggestions? thnxs
You have the wrong caliper,
with the bleeder on the bottom you will NEVER get the air out. Whew, I thought you were a hard customer for a bit there. Get the right caliper, let it gravity bleed till fluid comes out, them have your wife help and you are done~!
Have a great weekend!
Yes you can use the old one since thats just a dust seal that you
cut.... I'm guessing anyway that it was just the dust seal that you cut, you didn't actually pop the piston out of the caliper?
Quote:
Originally Posted by oufyaba
wow thnxs..thnxs for all responses..now the place i bought it from says too late to ship it overnight by tomorrow..so i will get it tuesday..
i still have the old one (seal cut/broken)..and a new seal kit coming..you think I can put the new seal around the piston and use the old (Honda Genuine) caliper?
thnxs
