Help needed - I broke the subframe bolt

Trying to remove the 22mm bolt that goes through subframe bushing to add Bruno's rear subframe plates.

Curbed Bolt - 51718181460
Collar Nut (22mm) - 33331126136

Part numbers 6 and 8 on etk. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=33&fg=30

I contanted the dealer and it will take 3 to 4 weeks to come from Germany and will take cost aus$60. I'm thinking on contacting bma auto parts instead, or trying to get them locally from a hardware store. Anyone know how long the bolts are?

Do I have to lower the subframe to put the new bolt in from the top? Or is there another way- I haven't done a job like this before.

Regards

Kristian

can you remove the other one and use that for a match? or

Put the broken bolt next to the piece with the broken nut and bet a length measurement, measure the diameter.

Look in the top of the broken bolt and it will give you the hardness of the bolt.

You should be able to match it up at a hardware or machine shop tool and supply place.

No biggie at all.

Any fastener shop listed in your yellow page should have them... the critical point is not only the thread type and length but the strength rating... They can match it for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BigKriss

Trying to remove the 22mm bolt that goes through subframe bushing to add Bruno's rear subframe plates.

Bolt - 51718184161
Nut (22mm) - 33331126136

Part numbers 6 and 8 on etk. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=33&fg=30

I contanted the dealer and it will take 3 to 4 weeks to come from Germany and will take cost aus$60. I'm thinking on contacting bma auto parts instead, or trying to get them locally from a hardware store. Anyone know how long the bolts are?

Do I have to lower the subframe to put the new bolt in from the top? Or is there another way- I haven't done a job like this before.

Regards

Kristian

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Basically BMW states any self locking fasteners (bolts/nuts) should be discarded and replaced with new ones. After my experience replacing my thrust arm bushes I tend to agree with this. The threads stripped whilst removing them ... F#*%#ing things!! The locknuts used are a cone style locknut which lock very well!!

Kris, I was quoted more than $100.00 for thrust arm bolts and nuts from a fastener supplier (not genuine) the other alternative was having BMW order them from Munich just like your situation. All for a couple of bolts & nuts that are supposed to be replaced once removed. What I want to know is if BMW state their self locking fasteners require replacement once removed then why don't they stock them??

I ended up buying 2 x Hi Tensile Hex bolts and locknuts for $6.20 each. If you have an intact sample take it to your local bolt bar and see whether they can match it. ;)

6 is not a normal bolt it's pressed into it's hole in the body, i've never needed to change one in a e34 but they usually can be hammered out in other bimmers, the trick is doing it without screwing up the new one if you go for a used one

Holy cow, look how stretched the threads are.. Someone went crazy with an impact wrench on that one.

You can't replace this with a hardware store bolt. The top is knurled to tightly fit through the frame.

All that should be needed is to support the rear subframe, and pound the bolt up from the bottom. The writeup on bmwe34.net under rear subframe bushing replacement will explain it pretty well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by winfred

6 is not a normal bolt it's pressed into it's hole in the body, i've never needed to change one in a e34 but they usually can be hammered out in other bimmers, the trick is doing it without screwing up the new one if you go for a used one

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Okay!

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...amebushing.htm

This shows how to remove the bolt, but how do I hammer it out, since the bolt it broken. The bolt is stuck inside. Do I have to drill it out or remove it from the top. I'm lost as what to do. I'm getting the parts from BMA autoparts, seems the easiest way to go.

that procedure seems to suggest that you have to drive the "pin" upwards.If you have broken the "pin" you will need to use another similar sized bolt or a drift to hammer the "pin"out ,like a punch and a nail
http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...a/SubBush6.jpg

6. Underneath again, subframe arm removed, you can see the actual subframe bushing. At this point, the subframe itself is being supported by a 4x4 post on a jack. The bolt in the center is the pin previously mentioned. You need to hammer the pin up and push it out of the bushing. Be ready to hit it hard. Don't mess up the threads! Put the nut on and hammer on a socket! Pin shown removed on the right

thanks for your help guys - i'll see what i can do and get back to you

If you are in Sydney, try calling Masbolt in Wetherill Park, they have stainless bolts as well as Zinc plated hardened steel ones (probably what BMW use). Be sure to get plated ones... if not stainless. The locking nuts are referred to universally here as 'Nyloc nuts'. Once you have the spec ie M10x65mm or whatever they measure up to be you'll be ok. You probably know but JIC be sure that the bolts will be metric :) a lot of Aussie fasteners are still imperial... :) good luck... GP

On second thoughts, just checked the ETK (am also doing rear suspension in mine)... toying w getting coil-overs from ground control...

I reckon that nut is VERY special- probably best to buy direct from your local stealer...

ooops when i say nut, i actually mean 'knurled bolt' ;) 51718181460 from that ETK link earlier on in the thread... be sure to check it is the right year and model JIC, however I think that part is common on all E34s.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by genphreak

On second thoughts, just checked the ETK (am also doing rear suspension in mine)... toying w getting coil-overs from ground control...

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What are the ground control coilovers like? How much can they lower the car and how much are they etc? Looked on the website but i couldn't find much info.

a few years back I placed a post concerning the R&R of parts.
ESPECIALLY, lower body, brake, powertrain, suspension and steering parts.

Here's the short version....
Whenever replacing parts that are in contact with crud and water, it is cheaper (and in the long run easier!), to replace the parts along with new hardware.

So....if you going to do any work, when ordering the parts, order the associated hardware. Generally, it amounts to a few extra bucks but it will save you that in time and heartache.

In some cases, BMW stipulates that you NOT use the old hardware so, of course, you should order ANYTHING that they state should be replaced....

Don't be cheap!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rory535i

What are the ground control coilovers like? How much can they lower the car and how much are they etc? Looked on the website but i couldn't find much info.

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Rory I have no idea how good they are, read one good report. There is a page on gc's site where they are priced and mentioned, its just a bit weirdly laid out.

Re ride height; Coil-overs make it completely adjustable, you just wind the coil down a bit to make the car sit where you want it. Also, I think with these you use your old strut inserts/shocks.

I'm not in the US so I can't really go check. If they make them they should be getting onto the bmw forums though... plenty of people would buy them I would think...

:) GP

i recieved the bolts and nuts from bma auto today in the mail today. it took abot 5 days for me to receive it after i placed the order, very fast especially over the easter long weekend. the shirt was a nice addition also. will try and fix the car up tommorrow.

wish me luck.


http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...tid=1007&stc=1
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...tid=1008&stc=1
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...tid=1009&stc=1

alright bro,
good luck with the bolt although i dont think u will need
it. pm me if you have any questions when your doin the work

what parts did you get Kriss and what was the postage(and the method of postage ie usps fedex etc)thinkin about getting some bits and peices.....

the parts where etk numbers 6 and 8 as seen in the first post. They where us$6.50 for the bolts and us$1.29 for the nutz. thats a total of us$15.58 or aus$20.

Sylvania BMW said it would take 3 to 4 weeks to come from germany at cost aus$60. Forget that :( I bought some clear side indicators, auto trans bolts, raidator plug. The parcels total weight was 2 pounds 11 ounces. It was sent USPS fastest method (3 to 5 days). cost was US$30. total parcel value was US$56. 9 days after i broke the bolt, i had new ones in my hands.

I sent the first round of emails off to patrick right after i broke the bolt. That was on Monday, by thursday it was in the mail. and on wednesday today I received it. Paid no customs or import duties on it either.

You can hear people rave on about different companies all day, honestly though, its doesn't make any sence for me to get new parts locally.

BMA is awesome for ordering parts cannot be an easier. look up etk at www.realoem.com, give Patrick the etk number and then see what he can do for you. Thats a better way I think than going from the website sometimes.

i hope this helps you mate.

jacked the car up today. removed the rear seat and located the subframe bolt. They bolt came out extremely easily, i pull it up from the top of the bolt with my fingers - it was that easy. slapped on bruno's rear subframe inserts on both sides and replaced the bolt and nut on both sides. haven't tested the car (driven hard) with them on yet. couldn't notice any difference.