M30 cam - only one lobe bad, others clean? #1 exhaust has heavy wear. Other 11 no wear at all. How can that be? Anything I can do to stop wear on bad lobe.
Need to loan car to son for a while. Need cam fix before loan or just run it?
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M30 cam - only one lobe bad, others clean? #1 exhaust has heavy wear. Other 11 no wear at all. How can that be? Anything I can do to stop wear on bad lobe.
Need to loan car to son for a while. Need cam fix before loan or just run it?
usally points to a bad guide or lash/lifter .
I'd just run it till it turns to sh!t and do a head rebuild...cams, guides, valves and all
stop driving it, synthetic could help. the more its run the more metal grits circulating in the oil. bad oiling to that area is a common cause with **** oil a factor. if you can polish the ruffies down that will slow the demise but a new cam and lifters are in order.
see if any oil is spraying to that lobe?
banjo bolts have come loose and the front lobe is starving for oil since its the furthest from the supply of oil and slightly uphill from the oil holes for the other lobes.. I would look at the banjo bolts that hold the oil sprayer bar down first. Also if you have adjusted the valves too tight so there is no clearance then you can wipe out a cam lobe if you haven't burnt a valve first. Your engine doesn't have lifters, the rocker arms ride directly on the cams.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene in NC
As Bill said, that's what happens when a banjo bolt on the cam spray bar loosens. Cylinder 1 is always the one to get wiped out. I got the new style replacement bolts for my car, with thread locker (like lock-tite) already on them. Unfortunately, the only cure for a worn cam is replacing it. Or maybe it's the opportunity you've been looking for to get that Schrick cam...
Also I incorporated a trick from Metric Mechanic book, crimping the center of the spray bar, between cylinder 3 and 4. That way oil can't run down hill away from the front of the engine.