Update on diffswap/bilstein shocks/trailing arm bushings install w/ some pics

So for the last few days, I've been slowly going through attempt number 2 of the rear end rebuild. I needed to swap out the trailing arm bushings, but since I've got to pull the shocks out and the CVaxles, I decided to swap out the diff (which I tried and failed a week or so ago) and put some bilstein tourings in at the same time.

So since I only get to work on this project about 2 hours every couple of days, its been rather slow going, but I finally got some documentable progress, so I snapped a few pics.

I was not able to get the last hex head bolt out of the diff by the method that Bill suggested with Vice grips. I had to resort to cutting the head off with my dremel tool. It SUCKED, hardcore. It took forever. Anyway, its out. If you're going to pull these bolts, please, use some PB blaster and make sure the wrench is in there good, don't strip them.

My better fortune was that the shocks popped out with VERY little force. I had read all kinds of horror stores of getting the shock end out of the hub.

I now have only 3 tasks remaining before I can get the arms out of the car. The bolts are already all removed, I still have 3 things attaching the arm to the car.

1- Brake line - What is the best way to keep the line from leaking all of the fluid out over the next week or so while the arms are having the bushings pressed?
2- Any tips on getting the parking brake cables out? I can't see intuitively how to remove them, I'll have to check out the Bentley tomorrow.
3 - Easiest way to remove the speed sensor? Do I have to remove the sensor and let it dangle, or is there a way to disconnect it that might be easier?

Once I get those 3 things taken care of, I can get the arms out and taken to the shop. While the arms are at the shop, I can drop the diff and pull the shocks (from the top) and put the new bilsteins in and the new LSD in.

Oh, yeah, and I get to put THESE on. Just got them back from Costco - manager was totally cool about it. Since the only thing people on message boards care about are pics and DIYs, I threw some more pics in below.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2171.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2170.jpg

Rear tires on the style 72s. The tires are BFGoodrich TA KDWs, but the rears have a different tread pattern than the fronts. Im guessing that the fronts are the KDWs, and the rears are the updated KDW2s. Why did I get 2/2? I dunno.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2159.jpg
This is about the room I have to work with, but its a consistant 75F out, and iits not raining. I can't complain.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2160.jpg
I was bored, so I unplugged my trunk speakers, plugged my ipod in, and hooked up my booster pack so as not to drain the battery. Works nicely since I don't have a radio in the garage.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2168.jpg
Booster pack

Congrat's on the progress, hope it goes well.

There should be a disconnect for the speed sensor. There are at least 2 styles. One has a connector that plugs directly into the sensor. Another has about a 6" lead with a connector on the end.

Prop a stick from the driver's seat to depress the brake pedal about 1 or 2". That will close off the reservoir feed so you don't empty the brake fluid.

Maybe Robin will chime in about tricks to finish getting the trailing arm free. I helped him press new bushings into his. Took alot more force than we anticipated getting the old ones out & used lots of heat & WD40 & a 15 or 20 ton press. An alternate method I've used, similar to your Dremmel tool stint, is to bore out all the rubber in the bushing with a hole saw & then cut a slot thru the remaining metal shell with a hacksaw, being careful not to cut into the arm.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2162.jpg
CV axles and most bolts removed from the right trailing arm. Gonna pull the calipers and lines tomorrow.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2163.jpg
Whats left of the bolt I had to grind away after it had stripped out the hex connection.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2172.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2173.jpg

Two quick shots of how messy my workshop has gotten since taking on this (and 2 other) jobs.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/DSCN2169.jpg
One more of the 4 new wheels/tires, plus the old two bottle caps that are off while I work. Starting to look like a tire shop in here.

Nice progress, Dan.

If your car is a rust-less southern (and it sounds like it), so you should have no problems with the park brake lines. The basic idea is to disassemble the park brake at the hub, and then the line will pull (or gently tap) out, but that often isn't the case and it requires a bit of work. On cars with rust, it's the worst part of the job, and you often end up cutting the line and losing the park brake because it rust fuses to the hub.

Easiest thing to do with the ABS sensors is to follow the lines through to the back seat, disconnect them there, pull the grommets, and leave them bolted to the trailing arms. But again, if the car has no rust, they could be removed from the hub with no problem.

Best thing I've found to remove bad half shaft bolts is Cornwell's twist sockets. http://www.cornwelltools.com/OnlineC...tsocketse.html

Thanks for the help Don. For the speed sensor, I checked the bentley - I just have to remove it at the bolted connection. I also checked out the bentley for disconnecting the parking brake connection - that cleared some of it up. I like the idea for keeping the brake fluid from draining, I'll do that.

As for pressing the bushings out, well, call me a wuss, but I'm not even going to try. I have an indy thats been good to me, and I'm going to let them do the pressing and pick the arms up from them.

I was going to work on it when I got home from work today, but I've got a KILLER headache, and I gotta do some shopping for the big Vday, so this will have to wait. Oh well, so close, yet so far away.

Yeah, its a southern car, no rust. I've been pretty lucky. I just couldn't believe it when the shocks popped free with very little effort - NOT what usually happens to me when I'm working on suspension. I'll tear into the parking brake hub the next chance I get to working at it.

Thanks for the tips!

you guys could have told me the first pic was linked wrong - I don't have access to photobucket at work, and this was the first I noticed the link didn't work.