Printable View
How the hell do I get to the goddamned spark plugs? (still waiting for my service manual to show up and I've never done this before) Do I have to remove what I think is the air filter?
Is there a picture somewhere on the web of the 1990 535 engine that identifies the components? I'm trying to find one with no luck...
for the love of god...
*LOL* Bump
After you've wiped up the coffee that spurted from your nostrils on reading my previous pathetic post - should I hit the sauce 'til Monday or can I get at this plug business now?
:p
Go Leafs!
lemme see if i can find an m30 pic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cappy
ok, first of all, the manual doesn't have any pictures of m30 engines at the spark plug boots, so if you aren't familiar with what a spark plug wire looks like, i'd hold off and ask some more questions. your spark plugs are located on the passenger side of the car, probably below some plastic, but below the oil cap. i'd see if i can stick my hand down there and feel out 6 plug wires/boots. the wires travel through some type of plastic channel, so they aren't readily visible until they arrive at the plugs. you may or may not have to remove plastic and/or the air cleaner to get at it easily, (I own a m50 DOHC so they are on top of things), but they should be above the exhaust manifold and below the plastic air cleaner thingy. questions? maybe someone that owns a 35 will be able to answer you better.
http://evansweb.info/images/articles...23448858_2.jpg
here we are then
see the thing that says HT cable tray stud? i guess if there is a piece of plastic there, you'd remove it so that you can see the plug wires and plugs located beneath it, or if you can reach under it, i'm sure the latter would be preferrable.
Cappy,
Following this 'advice' depends on how far you made it into the sauce this weekend.
Plug change out is a snap, but you do need a good plug socket that will hold the plug tight (little rubber bushing that grips the upper tip of plug), and a variety of 3/8" drive gear.
Yes, remove the air cleaner: loosen the 4" dia. hose clamp going into the AFM (air meter), remove the top of the box + filter. Two more 10mm bolts and the base of the AC is out of the way.
If you slightly warm the eng first, the plug wires will pull off more easily: Pull on the boot only. You can loosen the spark plug wire harness manifold (2 or 3 10mm acorn nuts on the valve cover) to again, make life easier.
Once the wires are out of the way, the plugs are waaaay down in their wells - that's why the gripping socket. A little effort, and all 6 will be out.
To reinstall - set gap of single electrode plugs @ 0.9mm
- small dab of anti-seize on the threads (on nothing else!) - some will advise against anti-seize.
- carefully lower the plugs into the well, and thread IN BY HAND. It is all too easy to cross thread in an aluminum head when you can't see the engagement. Snug to ~14 ft/lbs after correct threading is assured.
Like I said, a piece of cake: So, what kind of sauce are we having? :p
Additional Caveat to GS535's Post
Make sure engine is COLD when you install plugs or else you'll end up messing up the threads.
heres what I got out of the hammering I got when I recomended antisieze...
Dontuse it, the new plugs (circa 1985+) have a zink coating in such no antisieze is needed. If however you do use it the torque setting to tighten the plugs will pull the threads right out of the heads.
I do know for sure that you will mess up the threads if the engine is hot, learned that on crotch rockets a while back.
Thanks fellas - I'm going in and we'll see what happens. If I don't post back by Friday, I'm in rehab.
I'll have a couple Millers for you!
;)
Well, that ain't no freaking 20 minute job - I don't care if you have Jebus H. Christ Hisself helping you out!
With a lot of swearing, sweating in 105 sunshine, and a back ready to break from bending over the hood, all 6 plugs found their new homes. Only one of them gave me any heebie-jeebies going in - different feel than the others. Felt stuck on the way out, too, so I think the threads in this well are F-ed. Whaddyagonnado...
Anyhoo, the idle is better and it starts easier. But what a freaking pain in the ass...
Next up: leather restoration and possibly a p-chip.
I'm gonna post detailed instructions on this "simple" task in the interests of preventing future profanity from prospective plug changers...
Thank god I had some beer in the fridge after that travesty! :)
job:p
Quote:
Originally Posted by cappy