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Does anyone know if a 140a could replace 115a in an 89 m20 525i ?? or would I be looking for problems? I purchased Alterator(140) before pulling orignal...now its 10pm at night I am an hour and some into this project then
BAM...orignal states 115a !!:( Any suggestions while I also sleep on it...wow ...MAN where did the time go?
Far as i know the alt should be compatible. From an electrical standpoint you are ok, as the alternator can provide more power, but the voltage regulator will still keep it at a safe range for the car's electronics. If everything bolts up, you should be in good shape.
by about half an inch...breather for alternator bumps into air intake area ...would not align
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Originally Posted by colo525i
Also had old one tested .... turns out to be fine?? autozone tested?? trust it?
Then the only electrical situation most recently would be ...the passenger side seat just stopped working about ten days ago. Now all I know is that something is draining the battery ... i dont even have a radio installed yet. also the only other aftermarket pieces that are electrical i can tell about would be these washer lights (previous owner) that are grounded but not hot.
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Originally Posted by patznu
I'd start looking for current draws while the car is off. I'm assuming you are having problems with the battery draining while the car is off? You'll have to start checking individual circuits.
Yes Sir ..you are correct I have been hit with this mysterious electrical gremlin in which I have no clue as to where to start.... any suggestions for locating this fuse for power seat? As I do believe this to be my culprit.
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Originally Posted by colo525i
I believe those are under the rear seat, driver's side. This is where the general module and door locking relays are. Fuses should be on the top, and should be marked as to which seat etc.
OK started looking for current draws and noticed that while car is off that 60% of my fuses remain to be live, hot .. so now I not sure which item is my main relay and whether this may be the problem now or what but I know for sure that things like the lights and other things showed were running??
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Originally Posted by colo525i
Don't confuse the detection and measurement of voltage with that of current. Voltage can be present without the flow of current so the actual detection of voltage at the fuses is not what you should be concerned with if you are looking for battery drains. The instruments and techniques for troubleshooting these problems (if this is really the issue) have been covered thoroughly in the archives and can be accessed by searching them. A relevant set of prints for your vehicle would be a good starting point.
Paul
pertaining to this electrical chase or should I just replace ccm as most recent searches seem to lead to this?
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Originally Posted by PaulJ