I've got the Bentley and am *somewhat* confident I can get through this. However, if would be nice if anyone's got a write up on the replacement. I couldn't find one searching through the archives.
I'll try to document all my work and take plenty of photos for a web page to be created later.
i have m50 pictures, but i sincerely doubt that that will help you any. if your doing it sans special tools, winfred has manual cam manipulation pics that he compiled for us all here:
http://plaza.ufl.edu/rroopnar/35831.htm
i know that you should "intrinsically" know how to do this before hand, but it helps decrease confusion at least somewhat, and it supplements bentley nicely.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
I don't think that the special tools are required for the M30. However, I'm not doing the cam myself. I'm pulling the head and then taking it to the machine shop. They only charge $32 to pull the cam in addition to their fee for doing seals and a valve job. It's worth the $32 to me. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
There is a small one by my house, Highland East Auto Parts is the name of the place. It's an auto parts shop with a machine shop. I talked to the guys there a few times, they were actually doing a BMW M10 head when I was there.
You don't need special tools, Craig. The Bentley write-up is OK if you go slow and read it all the way through several times before starting. Read each section again before you do it. Get new head bolts when you order parts. Do all the coolant hoses while you're at it, there's never a better time. The electrical and sensor plugs are unique to their mate and there's no issue there. You have to be bold when unseating the fuel rail so go to it. I used a protractor to make a template for the final tightening sequence of the head bolts (specified in degrees), didn't see buying the special tool just for one job. Also keep in mind the usual water pump stuff and look at the alternator if you have a lot of miles on the car. I left the headers in the car when the head came out, didn't have any real issues there, just lazy. Pump up the timing chain tensioner like the book says, it takes a long time. Remember which quadrant the locator pin on the camshaft is in when you take off the sprocket so you can return it to the same approximate position before you put the sprocket back on. Wire the chain and sprocket together in several places before you slip all that apart. It's common sense and reading the book. Keep BMA's telephone number handy and good luck.
Paul 1991 535i 5sp.
Thanks Paul. That bit with the protractor is new to me, I've never seen anything like that before. Time to do a little more research...
I did the low hanging fruit tonight (air filter housing, intake tubes, the easy plugs, etc) and labelled everything along with taking some pictures too.
One more hint - when putting the head back on the car, be sure not to whack the plastic timing chain guide that sticks up over the face of the block. Easy to do with a 60lb head hung over the engine bay.
If you do, break the guide, you then get the joy of figuring out how to crack the front crank nut so you can remove the lower front cover and replace the chain guide!
Last time I looked there was a write-up (with pictures I think) on BMWe34.net. Link on home page of this forum.
Craig, just for information, I spent about $600 total on my head gasket job. I did an Inspection II level of service at the same time. I think the machine shop work (inspection, head work and valve grinding) was around $150 with te remainder in parts. BMA had a heater valve hose with a bleeder device in it and it INSTANTLY and completely bled the heater core. I drilled the thermostat flange to facilitate purging at the bleeder screw and had all the air out of the cooling system in a flash. The local stealer was about an hour away and had the odd pieces I needed. Don't get your gasket there though!
When replacing the head, install the rear-most bolts in the head before you seat it on the block. Not much room back there after the head is down.
Paul
Craig, since you're planning on going turbo, have you thought about one of the low-compression head gaskets from BMP?
the protractor dealie costs 8-10 dollars at autozone or discount auto parts.
To all- thanks.
Paul- is the bleeding of the heater core difficult? I will be starting everything tonight so will check up on the procedure. I read the Bentley sections on the head gasket, but didn't go to the other sections that are referenced (draining coolant, etc). Guess I'll be doing that tonight. I like your idea about the bleeder though, might give BMA a call today.
Mr Project- I thought about the lower compression gasket briefly, but I'm not going to be running much boost and so don't think it will be a problem. Even the stock 9:1 is not really "high" by most standards and at <7 pounds I don't think I'll have much trouble (remember I said that!).