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rockyfeller
10-13-2004, 02:08 AM
My car's engine pulls like a locomotive but the rest of the car just can't handle it. I plan on a Sachs kit and new thrust arms, 17" wrapped in Zs should take care of handling. Right now I'm more worried about the brakes because they always have SUCKED on my car. The car will still stop on a dime when pushed hard but the pedal is too damn spongy, and there seems to be some sticking. (I suspect a bad caliper) Also the OG pads are a brake dust factory. A mechanic I want to use is used to using Pagids or PBRs, but I have seen many people advise for Raybestos QS. Pagids also come in a "Blue" sport type as well. Anyone have any ideas on them? There are orange racing ones as well, but I'm sure I don't need those. PBRs are semi-metallic. Shouldn't I stick to ceramics? He has no experience with the Raybestos and non-E34 owners think of them as nothing great. Is it worth going through the trouble of ordering them? Are getting slotted/drilled rotors worth anything or are they just for looks as some have suggested? I wish my car could stop like the newer Bimmers. I've driven some (E39, E46, E38) and my car can never stop like that though my mechanic promises it should.

mike wong
10-13-2004, 02:28 AM
first, flush out the old brake fluid and put in ATE fluid. see if that eliminates the spongy feel. as you said, you may need to check out a binding caliper.

then after you've gotten yourself a solid pedal feel; experiment with different pads. if you still have some mush, check the rubber brake lines - may need to change to stainless steel lines.

you have to decide what level of performance you want then find a pad to match. I like the PRB for "dustless" street driving, but think Hawk pads are better for more spirited runs.

Patrick
10-13-2004, 02:37 AM
I recently rebuilt my brakes with slotted discs in front and stock discs on the rear, with Raybestos QS Ceramics on all corners, plus Earl's stainless steel brake lines. I also was coming from a stock setup so the dust was terrible. I went with the Raybestos mostly on Bill R's recommendation, low dust and long wear. So far I'm happy with the setup. I also rebuilt the front calipers since I figured they needed it. The kit from BMA is cheap, like $3.00 ea. It's really easy to do if you use compressed air to take them apart and then to expand the new inner o-ring to put it back together -it's about impossible to do it without it.
Btw, I also installed a Sachs kit, M5 sways, uppers, lowers, links, adjustable front camber kit along with 17" rims -it's a lot better car imo. You won't regret doing any of those mods.

Patrick
10-13-2004, 02:48 AM
http://www.bimmernut.com/wwwboard/e34/messages/56928.html
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?p=4793
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?p=6760
http://www.bimmernut.com/wwwboard/e34/messages/56953.html
http://www.holley.com/earlsplumbing/
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

I got the ss lines and speed bleeders from BMP Design. Mike's right, whatever you decide to do be sure to thoroughly flush the brake system with new ATE fluid (BMA of course).
Prior to the rebuild, my car was pulling on the left front and I was getting a lot of brake dust on that wheel. All of that is gone now.

Bimmer Nut Ed
10-13-2004, 03:28 AM
http://www.bimmernut.com/wwwboard/e34/messages/16137.html

Here's another comparing pads.

rockyfeller
10-13-2004, 10:44 AM
Thanks for the links guys! Very helpful. I know ATE fluid is the way to go....Should I use the yellow fluid or is the blue good enough? I'd hope a flush is enough, gotta look at the whole brake system to see what else is required. Saw a slight leak atop the master cylinder as well possibly just leaking grommets on top (I hope) I want no squeal, low dust and responsive/progressive feel. I'll probably take a chance on Raybestos QS.

632 Regal
10-13-2004, 10:59 AM
different colored fluid in an effort to see when the old stuff is gone and the new color flows through.

Patrick
10-13-2004, 12:34 PM
Unless you're planning on driving in the next local GP the blue will be more than adequate.

Brandon J
10-13-2004, 02:03 PM
Since you are talking about performance and adding the Sachs kit I am thinking more about the performance of the brake pad. Usually dustless and performance do not go hand in hand. There are dustless pads that work close to stock, those that need to be heated up first, those that need to be pushed harder to reach a threshold for better braking, and those that squeal either when pushed hard or under light load.

Now I was concerned before about dust and had PBRs as well as Axxis deluxe plus. I finally put Axxis Ultimates on and they are the best street pad in performance I have ever tried. The dust is more gray than stock and it performs well even when cold. Plus, they do not squeal at all! You will be addicted to its stopping power. When it comes to the safety of braking, I don't take a chance and say what is adequate, especially with my spirited driving style. I have had the Axxis Deluxe plus pads and the PBRs fade during spirited runs and even glazed the Deluxe Plus. The Ultimates are up to the task.

FYI: don't forget to wax your wheels. It makes it harder for pad dust to stick and it makes the dust easier to clean.

rockyfeller
10-13-2004, 05:15 PM
Aren't PBRs/Axxis semi-mets? Shouldn't we stick to ceramic? Are PBRs/Axxis made by the same company? I see them often listed together. Anyone else use Axxis? By now I think I'm even more confused!! I'm hearing good/bad things about every type of pad out there. LOL!! Never knew there were so many choices. I defintely want better than stock....don't need a trackstyle pad with high fade resistance either....Just a street-type pad for brisk/spirited driving, no sqeual, low dust and can halt the car on a dime.

Tiger
10-13-2004, 08:26 PM
I use Axxis MetalMaster... Rock solid braking performance with zero dust and zero fade. I have PBR Ultimate on my other car... Ultimate is ceramic and is dusty... one fuel tank is one week OEM pad.

As for the Brake fluid... the reason they have blue and gold is so when you flush them out... you can tell where old fluid ends and new come out. It's the same stuff with different coloring. You definitely need to bleed your brake system... 540i brake are monster!

WarrenBrown
10-13-2004, 08:30 PM
I've used PBRs/Axxis deluxe and semi-mets, on a total of 3 different 525i's, I cannot get them to stop squealing. I run the semi metalics on the E30 and have a hard time getting them to squeal even after the abuse of a track day (not a good track pad). On the 5, the last pads were EBC and while quiet and dust free, the rears didn't last too long, maybe 30 to 40k. The fronts are doing better. I replaced the rears and will replace the fronts with Raybestos QS pads and have been happy. Don't have long term-life test results. The Raybestos QS are easier to come by and are cheaper.

Warren
91 318is
95 525iT

Robert K
10-13-2004, 10:16 PM
Copied the following text, which was written by Bill R, a long time ago and kept it for just such an occassion.

I wasn't going to get involved in this discussion, since with some people brake pads are like religion... However after watching the pad posts recently I couldn't keep my big mouth shut.
I have installed literally thousands of sets of pads on cars and trucks. These are strictly my own observations.
Jurid : Good pedal feel, low noise fairly rapid wear and dusty. Good street pad if you don't mind dust and lifespan.
Pagid: Ditto jurid, virtually the same thing.
Mintex: Jurid , Pagid clone, slightly less dusty.
Still good pedal feel, doesn't require a lot of pressure. These three are all good street pads with dust.
Performance friction and Performance friction z rated: This pad I have installed around 30 sets. I have not yet had a customer who was happy with them on a street car in the long run. Greater pedal effort, noise and buildup on rotors and warped rotors. I have ended up taking off every set I have sold for the street. (note, none of these were on bmw's however for what thats worth)
A couple of friends who race s.c.c.a. stuff use the z rated on the track and are happy with them. they typically change them after one day at the track.
Autozone duralast: Lifetime warranty, high noise level. Hard pedal feel. Fairly agressive on the rotors Very few people happy with these, although I do install a lot for the type of person who is oblivious to the brakes on his car. The car as appliance type of people. Not recommended by me.
Axxis Metalmasters:
I install a fair number of these. good pedal feel , low effort, lifetime warranty, low fade. Low noise and very little dusting.
PBR Metalmasters:
I didn't realize there was a difference in these until I got a set from Patrick and realized the compound looks different from the Axxis metalmaster. I haven't installed them yet so no opinion.
PBR Deluxe. Average pad, low dust, not the greatest pedal feel or stopping power. A good average pad for normal duty use.
Raybestos PG Plus: Lifetime warranty pad, low noise very good pedal feel, good stopping power, low dusting. I have installed about 30 sets of these on varying makes in the last 3 months and have been very pleased with the results. I have had no comebacks with these so far...I am going to try a set on my 535 instead of the metalmasters I ordered because of the results I have had on other cars. They have a satisfaction warranty as well. If you install them and aren't happy with them they will refund your money. I would try the next grade up which is a ceramic pad but its not available for bmw yet.
Hope this helps.

His words, not mine...

Grace and peace,

Robert K

Brandon J
10-13-2004, 10:37 PM
PBR and Axxis may be the same company, but may not have the same compounds. Yes the metalmasters under both brands are known to be noisy. The Axxis Ultimates is a kevlar-ceramic compound and it does NOT squeal. Besides the usual dust (less than stock), everything else is better, heh well less longevity. Though it still lasts long, pad bite, coefficient of friction, noise, pedal feel, temp range, cold pad bite, etc. are much much better. Here is a link for a comparo to the Deluxe Plus, Metal Master & Ultimates: http://www.zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm#Compare

Semi-metallics with any brand have been known to squeal, that is why they headed towards the ceramics. One thing I did notice, contrary to the graphs, is that on several cars, including e39 and e34 M5 brakes, the noise is actually a lot less on the ultimates than the Deluxe PLus. The Deluxe plus tend to squeal under light load and slow moving. The Ultimates just don't squeal!

The graphs sometimes have to be interpreted. I have noticed that the fade is equal for the PLus and Ultimates on the graph, but that is in the operating range of the pad. The Ultimates have a much higher operating range and thus does not drop off in performance like the Plus. Also, regarding rotor life. I have noticed that I as well as others have acquired glaze spots on their rotors. Well, that is because the pads, such as the Plus and other pads in its temp range (low dust type), can have a tendency to glaze to mirror like finish under our performance use... performance tuned cars. So, you could easily damage a rotor from one spirited drive and then the rotor would have a much shorter life. That also goes true for throwing away glazed pads in regards to pad life.

I cannot say enough about the Ultimates for the performance enthusiast They are just awesome. Oh, one last thing, every Stoptech kit comes with Ultimates.

The stock Pagid or Jurid are still very good, they just don't have as much bite, are very dusty, cost more and have a lower temp range than other pads out there.



I've used PBRs/Axxis deluxe and semi-mets, on a total of 3 different 525i's, I cannot get them to stop squealing. I run the semi metalics on the E30 and have a hard time getting them to squeal even after the abuse of a track day (not a good track pad). On the 5, the last pads were EBC and while quiet and dust free, the rears didn't last too long, maybe 30 to 40k. The fronts are doing better. I replaced the rears and will replace the fronts with Raybestos QS pads and have been happy. Don't have long term-life test results. The Raybestos QS are easier to come by and are cheaper.

Warren
91 318is
95 525iT

rockyfeller
10-13-2004, 11:24 PM
Thanx Brandon!

paul p (chi-town)
10-18-2004, 05:23 PM
Yeah a little late to the party......
A set of Metal Masters on the SE-R and a set of Ultimates on the 3er.
I installed both sets myself (ok drivers side on the 3er) and have NO squealing whatsoever. New rotors but reused shims and springs. And we are very anal about proper bed-in here @ Pablo's Garage. It's fun too.
Haven’t had a chance to track either myself tho. They do need the slightest bit of warm up for good bite. Just slightly soft in the 1st application or two of a drive, nothing dangerous. After that they’re grrrreat. Nice modulation, good feel, i like em both.
Final choice would depend on any price difference and whether one is planning any track visits.
I have a set of dedicated race pads for the Sentra (u wanna talk squeal and rotor wear *rolleyes*) so i feel set either way.


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93 SE-R ‘Jenny’---94 530iT&A ‘Helga’---92 325i ‘Rolf’ ….”Hang up & Drive!” (http://homepage.interaccess.com/~motria/pablosgarage.html)
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It is the function of the citizen to keep the government from falling into error."--Robert H. Jackson.

Tiger
10-18-2004, 05:56 PM
I agree... Axxis and PBR is not the same material.

rockyfeller
10-18-2004, 11:01 PM
A couple more brake questions...While I focus on my brakes, I may as well do everything necessary to make them optimum-- If I need to consider rotors, why go with the stockers? Any of you guys use the Brembo rotors? I don't expect them to work like a big-brake kit....but is it worth the brand name? There are others like Zimmerman that are cross-drilled; aside from dissipating heat better, are there any other advantages? And secondly, I want that instant strong, effortless kind of brake response you can get from an E39 or E46. Would stainless steel brake lines make a difference? Anybody done it? Worth $100?

Brandon J
10-18-2004, 11:43 PM
If you want that new braking feeling...it exists on the e34. You should bleed the brakes well, install new rotors (if needed), and new pads. I always use the anti squeal goo on the backing of the pads. 1mm of wear is big on a rotor. It will have less mass to absorb the heat from braking so in theory can run hotter. If you doubt the thickness of your rotor and you plan on installing new pads anyways, just buy new rotors. They aren't that expensive and you will be sure that you don't have to worry about it. Remember that you should NOT use used pads on a new rotor. You could use NEW pads on a used rotor.

As far as rotors go, there are numerous brands that are OEM, Zimmerman, Brembo, Balo. These are all good, just don't get the cross drilled ones. They have less surface area and thus reduces braking efficency. With performance pads, like the Ultimates, fresh brake fluid, and rotors within spec, you should not have any over heating problems...even in very sporting street driving. I lost my brakes once while playing with an e39 M5. I didn't bleed my brakes in a year and was using Axxis Deluxe Plus pads. I bled my brakes using Ate Typ 200 and switched to Ultimates. No problem since.

Properly cooling the brakes is really done via brake ducts and that is probably the next step if you plan on driving on the track. Cross drilled rotors even crack on the track. Brembo uses slotted rotors as the fix on their brake kits for the cross drilled. Stainless steel brakelines can hold for now. Start with the pads, rotors and fluid. The brakelines can be added at a later time. There are benefits and drawbacks so while you install the other brake components, you can do further research on the lines, what is good, what is bad, and which brands to trust.

Stick with the stock set-up, just improved via performance pads and brake fluid. It is a good set-up and it will not disappoint you.



A couple more brake questions...While I focus on my brakes, I may as well do everything necessary to make them optimum-- If I need to consider rotors, why go with the stockers? Any of you guys use the Brembo rotors? I don't expect them to work like a big-brake kit....but is it worth the brand name? There are others like Zimmerman that are cross-drilled; aside from dissipating heat better, are there any other advantages? And secondly, I want that instant strong, effortless kind of brake response you can get from an E39 or E46. Would stainless steel brake lines make a difference? Anybody done it? Worth $100?