850 no start

[632 Regal]

Happened a couple times so far, now it cranks but no start, not even close. Batteries are at 12.74 volts but I checked it while cranking... 9.3 volts! Houston we have a problem. Off to score a couple DL-49s if anything is open tomorrow. Wish I would have checked this a few months ago.

Carry on.

[shogun]

the problem is that BOTH batteries must be good and in same condition on the 850.
Do you have a load tester? Better get one, pretty cheap from Harborfreight, I also got one.

Car and Deep Cycle Battery Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Section 4 (http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#load)

Also check both fuel pumps. In case the fuel pumps did not work for some months, it could even be that both are stuck.
Plus check the fusable links in the trunk next to the batteries. We had a similar case some years back with an 850. Sometimes started, sometimes not. Tested and changed a lot. In the end it turned out that one of the TWO fusable links had a haircrack which sometimes made contact and sometimes not. Just follow the battery cable, the fusable link is hidden under plastic heat shrink usually. And remember, there ate two of them in the trunk. We checked then only one, but in the end we found that the other one was broken.

[632 Regal]

Right on man, new batteries did not help. Starting fluid (either) makes it fire. No power to fuse 23 and 24 which are both fuel pumps. Still can't figure who the fuel pump relay is. Tried jumping the fuses with 10 amps no deals. With no power to the fuses I will check the links back stairs, everything else has power however but I suppose that matters none on this car. Thats my next step.

And always, thanks Erich!

[shogun]

fuel pump relays you can see from the online ETM based on your built year.
There are pics, drawings from around page 20 usually and at the end there is the section parts view, where you can even see the part and the location.


E31 (1991 to 1995 8 Series) Wiring Diagrams (http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e31/)

just as info/visual help. on the E32 750 the fuel pump relays are located here
Engine -- Fuel pump replacement (http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/fuelpump_replacement/Fuelpump.htm)

In case the engine was not running for some months or longer, it might be that both fuel pumps are stuck, we have that quite often in the cars in our warehouse. Sometimes you can get them alive again by removing them and whacking the fuel pump onto a wood block, and then give power in short intervals from a separate battery to the pump (outside the fuel tank), to get it lose again, once it is lose it will run again.

[632 Regal]

Zero power to both fuses. Is this car supposed to have an anti theft device that I can reset? Getting power to all fuses except the 2 in question. Starting to frustrate me. Looking at the links now.

[shogun]

I am not the expert on E31, but what I read it depends on built year. What I found
remote control - aniti-theft system - DWA IV (http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/695748)
Drive Away Protection System (EWS)
Model: EWS I/EWS II/EWS III/EWS III D
E31/E34/E36/E38/E39/E46/E52/E53
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/BMW_EWS.pdf#search=

[632 Regal]

Ok it looks like my car is exempt. I found 1 post on the same exact problem and I am waiting for a reply. Whatever it is is probably staring me right in the face. We will be trying a few things tomorrow starting from simple. I am understanding that the fuel pumps only run for a couple seconds when the key is turned on so I might be missing that power on because I did not have help. The fuel gauge is working so that must be on a different circuit.

[shogun]

yeah, found your post, let's see what they tell you there. But most important is that you edit that post and tell them the exact month/year of production that they can look into the correct ETM, you even did not mention which model, just Cars: 94 530i


BMWVin.com (http://bmwvin.com/)

[Tiger]

Fuel pressure is easy to check... just put a fuel pressure gauge inline with your fuel hoses...at engine.

Have you changed your Crank Position Sensor or at least check it?

[shogun]

there are 2 crank position sensors on the M70 engine. Here is how to check them, they Bentley manual for the E32 shows the wrong set up for the connectors, the pic inside here is correct
Elektrik Kurbelwellensensor/Geber (http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-kw-sensor.htm)
between pin 1 and 2 540 Ohm plus/minus 10%

[632 Regal]

Okay which do I check the top connectors or lower?

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/2876/m7053diesensorenanderfr.jpg

Not real easy to trace the wires in this thing. What are the other 2 connectors?

Looks like the top left and lower right are the CPS far as I can trace. Okay away I go.

[632 Regal]

Both sensors are close to 500ohms the connectors up top are crumbling but seem to be okay connection wise. I'll replace them but don't think that's the problem.

[shogun]

KW = Kurbelwelle = crankshaft, so the upper left is cylinders 1-6 = passenger side on left hand drive car, and CPS 7-12 is the lower on the right.
Zyl = that are the 2 donuts on ignition wires 6 and 12.
500 Ohm should be o.k.

[632 Regal]

Ordered the CPS but since I don't think that is the major issue I will go back and check the fusible link in the trunk that is hidden. Will also trace the donut connections, I don't remember how that went when I installed the new wires.

[shogun]

ahh, my friend, you should have told us earlier that you worked on new wires. Here we go

DISTRIBUTOR LEAD ORDER

The V12 has two distributors with the engine effectively run as two straight-6 engines. Although the distributors are mounted 180 degrees rotated in respect to each other (they both have the leads pointing towards the outside of the car) the rotor arm is also rotated 180 degrees with respect to each other. Both rotor arms rotate clockwise when viewed from the front (as does both cams and the crankshaft).


Firing order RHS bank = 1 5 3 6 2 4
Firing order LHS bank = 7 11 9 12 8 10

The RHS bank = 1-6
The LHS bank = 7-12


BMW E32 E38 V12 Distributor Lead Order M70 M73 (http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/V12_Distributor_Leads.htm)

[632 Regal]

It ran 2 years since new wires. Just wondering if the connection is messed up there too.

Okay both fusible links check out good, will leave batteries disconnected for the night.

[Tiger]

What is the fuel pressure? Have you hooked up a fuel pressure gauge yet?

I am wondering if you can check for sparks... not sure about the V12 engine.

[shogun]

yes, he can check for sparks, same system as on the M30 with old style ignition coil, distributor. Just that all is 2 x on a V12.
Even when one fuel pump would fail, there are 2 of them, so it would at least run on 6 cylinders.

[Tiger]

Perfect... I thought so. I didn't know if had coil packs like my V8 or not.

That would be easy to check if he has spark. And also with fuel pressure gauge... he can check if his fuel pump is working. that's the only two things to prevent a start.

[632 Regal]

Something keeps getting lost in the translation. I am getting NO VOLTAGE to the fuses (#23 & #24) for the pumps. Can't check pressure when there is NONE. I drove it up the ramps where it sits, just something decided to mess with me.

I did shoot some starting fluid into the intakes and it wanted to fire so I feel that I have spark but NO FUEL.

New CPS come tomorrow so I will put them in. Interesting location where they have them.

LOL

[632 Regal]

Well that was fun, 500 bucks gone and still no power to the fuses 23 & 24. Lets replace the car and we will be okay right? This ****ing sucks ass, Everything seems to be okay, except fuel pressure which I mentioned many ****ing times. NO POWER TO THE FUSES that supply voltage to the pumps.

New CPS sensors, disconnected battery power and rehooked up. no start, starts a stumble with starting fluid.

But a realization is that the spark is non existent. No spark and no fuel pressure.

[shogun]

I suspect drive away protection/anti theft device.

[Tiger]

No Spark and no fuel pressure... alarm system is a good possibility. For this, you would find the alarm system and simply disconnect the harness to the alarm system and see if the car starts up. I did that on my 540i when alarm went crazy... at the very least I was able to drive home. I only disconnect one side of the harness... there was two.

If that doesn't work, then I'd probably suspect the computer... I'd check to see if power is there and grounding is good. If possible swap it out with a friend's computer to see if the car starts up. I'd avoid buying another computer unless they are really cheap and guaranteed good... a combination that rarely seen.

[632 Regal]

I will look into the alarm / immobilization thing.

Very frustrated and need to get this thing out of here before we get kicked out. Can't think straight and have wire and routing running through my head, need a break and I'll go at it again. I know it's something stupid right in front of my face.

My son mentioned he remembers some wire in back of the motor being pinched or something when he went into the cabin filter area. He also told me that it smelled like burned computer when I was cranking it over. So I will have to check in that box too.

I met an English guy who tells me before I give the thing away to call him and says he will split profits above his cost for the car and repairs. Another day of this and that sounds like a good idea.

To be continued..................

[632 Regal]

I just remembered something interesting, when I connected the batteries up before this last time the hazard lights went on and this time there was no hazards on. Maybe someting turns the immobilization thing on by default after no power hooked up. hmm.

[genphreak]

Hazards/flashers happen due to the crash relay triggering- this causes the ECU to shut down fuel pumps also- all in the sake of safety in the event of a collision.

Your problem is not DWA as your starter cranks- if DWA were activated it'd shut it down and you'd get nothing but dash lights when you try to start. I bet your pumps- or one of them, is intermittently faulty and you too have flushed enough fuel down to cause no spark on start. You really must test fuel pressure if you have verified spark as it can come on and off and cause little symptoms during startup that can make you believe in elves and orks. Use an injector and spark tester light and get someone to crank it (or short the right pins in the diagnostics connector)- making sure the key is in the ignition and in position 2/on.

Tee both fuel rails to simultaneous pressure gauges and verify they are the same and in an acceptable range during cranking (fuel can only flow during crank and run and is controlled by the ECU listening to crash test system, CPS, DWA and possibly other things?). That is why its hard to trace- there is no single circuit to check- other than relays and pump wiring, the ECU (or ECUs) very much decides. Try to verify the signal wire out of the ECU that triggers the fuel pump relays tests for signal (I think it goes high).

The crash relay is in the long black one in the ebox on an e34- and there may be a new (later) version of it for your car. There were problems with them IIRC.

[632 Regal]

Okay, back to the crash relay, how do i disable that thing? We have got to be getting close now!

[shogun]

self activating flashers
that could be one of the bad crash alarm relais, I posted the numbers here and showed pics
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/7-series-bmw/43308-self-activating-flashers.html

just pull it and see what happens.

[genphreak]

Sorry not to add links to Shoguns previous posts- I was rushing from work. Just updated my post so it is less vague.

He contributed very good details on the crash relay and DWA if you want to research just search bimmernut, and you can simply remove it to see if the car will start. But I really would look at verifying correct fuel pressure on both circuits during cranking!

[632 Regal]

Okay guys here is where we are at.

I used Shoguns SIR3 and reset service inspection airbag and the little clock deal whatever that is. All reset flawlessly and no start. Disconnected batteries, did the alarm on/off routine and then used the key clockwise position 1&2 in the door and reverse to position 1 to the left to make sure the alarm was not on. Also pulled the crash relay for good luck.

Cranked and no power to fuel pump fuses and no start.

Next sprayed starting fluid into the intakes and it wants to start again so I'm guessing I have spark... WRONG did a visual check with a brand new plug and no spark.

Disconnected the fuel hose on driver side and tried to start to see if fuel came gushing out, nothing came out.

Right back to square 1, no spark and no fuel. I should run a couple hoses into a can of gas and into the intake and let the vacuum pull fuel in there and drive it ;-/ I do not understand why it wants to start with starting fluid, might be warm enough and possible very weak spark?

So to recap: new batteries fully charged, new CPS sensors, pulled the crash module, made sure the alarm isn't interfering. Also pulled the fuel pump relays, tried to start and replaced, no deals. (read that somewhere else where it helped)

Additional note, I am NOT getting a check engine light when I turn the key and am not able to get a stomp test to work. This is making me wonder about that angle. I did get a code when I drove it into it's current place and that was speed sensor, probably when I moved it in the snow last winter.

Now NO stomp code and no check engine light... just triple checked.

Next?

[632 Regal]

self activating flashers
that could be one of the bad crash alarm relais, I posted the numbers here and showed pics
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/7-series-bmw/43308-self-activating-flashers.html

just pull it and see what happens.

Just ordered one with a more current date, mine is the old one.

[genphreak]

Okay guys here is where we are at. ;-/ I do not understand why it wants to start with starting fluid, might be warm enough and possible very weak spark?

So to recap: new batteries fully charged, new CPS sensors, pulled the crash module, made sure the alarm isn't interfering. Also pulled the fuel pump relays, tried to start and replaced, no deals. (read that somewhere else where it helped) Next?

If you have fuel and no spark and keep cranking you will get a half-hearted combustion due to the compression action. Your problem is in an input to the ECUs- something is telling it not to run. You say you changed the CPSs. Are the new ones okay? Some aftermarket ones are crap I hear they never work- u proly know...

Perhaps your e31 has an inclination sensor? Your alarm system probably has one, but also in the loom of M60 powered e34s they are in the rear guard on a RHD car (the only ones I know, sorry). They mount them in the LH quarter panel. just behind the carpet panel and behind the wheel arch. If you have an alarm module, it may have one. Perhaps the inclination sensor is triggering your alarm (not DWA) since it is on the ramps? Would have to be very sensitive for a 5 degree upset on the ramps, but it would explain everything. If you can find the sensor, make it level with a spirit level and see what happens. Alt look up the schematic and see what it tells/does. Definitely it has to be an ECU input, unless there is an aftermarket alarm wired in there that is upsetting the ECU somehow.

Hang in there Jeff, you'll nail it any moment I am sure

[632 Regal]

Thinking back to last winter the same thing happened, thought it was the 6 year old gas. Disconnected the batteries and reconnected and it started right up. The car was on level ground then.

We just took the car down off the ramps thinking that there was no fuel getting to the pumps or some leveling sensor and also added another 6 gallons of gas.

When I was taking pictures a couple months ago my son was going to put the car back and it wouldn't start, a few minutes later I tried and it started back up. The car was level at the time. Why I didn't think about this I don't know. There is something obvious going on that I have not found yet. I will look for an inclination sensor, that thing could have an issue.

[632 Regal]

No CEL at all! I am thinking this is too coincidental. Can't find any information on this issue yet, it used to work before the non start no power to fuel pump fuse issue. All these electrical diagrams are confusing me to say the least. Any clues why that would also stop working? Have not yet isolated the alarm unit.

[genphreak]

Now the car is horizontal again, are you getting the fuel pump relays powering up the pumps?

Does your car have Pierburg pumps? Mine failed annoyingly like this, occasional no-starts... If you jump power to the signal input on the fuel relay you will get pressure- and you would be able to try starting it too.

Either way, do not rely on CEL to help any. It would be good to hook it up to a DIS though- does someone near you not have one?

Perhaps try a shogun reset... ?

[632 Regal]

Did the reset many times. As far as I read the relay only completes the ground circuit. I will jump 12v to the pumps and see if they kick on.

Why no CEL? I'm saying that I think when that stops working is when the car don't start. Can't find any info on it yet.

[632 Regal]

Why no CEL? I'm saying that I think when that stops working is when the car don't start.

^ what he said!

Really I need to get this car out of here, bank is booting my ass to the curb in less than a month and I need to money to relocate and can't take this with me, running or not.

$200.00 to the first to hold my hand and get it started.
$500.00 if you come help me do it, free room and board to boot!

[Tiger]

Sorry to hear of your situation... Not sure where you live... Chicago?

Do you or your friends have AAA? They will tow your car whereever you want it... doesn't matter if it is your friend's AAA or not. Just one person must have AAA.

[632 Regal]

I have 300 miles AAA... no shops can do this crap.. its like I got to punch a button and be okay.

Im in MI right now. Want burgers or ribs? Ribs take 8 hours here so make up your mind. car still dead.

[632 Regal]

Why no CEL? I'm saying that I think when that stops working is when the car don't start.

^ what he said!

Really I need to get this car out of here, bank is booting my ass to the curb in less than a month and I need to money to relocate and can't take this with me, running or not.

$200.00 to the first to hold my hand and get it started.
$500.00 if you come help me do it, free room and board to boot!

Not one person willing to make a couple bucks... sigh

Okay I will smoke some ribs but that take 10 hours, you be sleepin when I start.

[bimmer nut]

Good luck Jeff. I'll put money on CPS's, but then again I know nothing about that v12.

[632 Regal]

Good luck Jeff. I'll put money on CPS's, but then again I know nothing about that v12.

Already replaced them old ones were surely the problem, they were crumbling in my hands, really were falling into dust. Still nothing with the new... sigh.

[Tiger]

Mmm... where in MI? I only know MB mechanic there... no one else. Sorry.

Have AAA tow it to where you want it.... or are you moving very far?

[632 Regal]

I'm about 60 miles north of Detroit.

Supposed to be moving to TN, about 650 miles away. Not even sure where yet, unable to get a loan because of a foreclosure, wife paid with cash so that angle sucks too. We have like 3 weeks but the bank can force eviction through the courts. Not a real comfortable situation.

Tomorrow I am going to check that hidden fuse again, looks good and checks out with a resistance test but my son is here now so we can check voltage when cranking to zero that idea out. Also got the new crash sensor today so that will be done also. Read another forum where that fuse was the issue. Replaced one of the grounds from the motor mount to body, that thing looked pretty fried.

Relays are not powering up at all, afraid to make things worse by jumping voltages to things I don't fully understand.

[Tiger]

If you got a friend somewhere in between... or two... you could tow the car there... just an idea. Sometime you have to go backward on distance to a friend and then once fixed... drive home to TN.

Better yet, just get the damn car fixed!

[632 Regal]

Power to the coils, still can not locate any type of alarm unit or anti theft device to disconnect. The 2 main fuses in the trunk are definitely all good and tested proper and also while cranking. The one not hidden seemed to be a loose bolt but that made no difference even after cleaning tightening and rebooting the batteries.
anyone want this thing and we split the difference after expenses?

5K is the price today

banghead

[632 Regal]

Power to both terminals to the coils, in run position and cranking. Ran a wire from coil to a wire and spark plug, no spark.

Can not yet locate any alarm system to disconnect. The key pad will lock and unlock the doors - for whatever that's worth.

H E L P !

[632 Regal]

Okay now that I am not by the car... is it possible that the reason the hazards come on when I hook the batteries up could be due to it's crash control unit because the hood is always been open? Simple thing to check but I can't until tomorrow... just thinking out loud here. If in an accident the batts lose connection and the hood pops would that not be a reason to cut the system... Last winter when it wouldn't start I disconnected the batts but closed the hood so it wouldn't get dusty and it started up like there was never an issue.

If that does nothing I will snip the black/violet wires to the DME's which should disable the immobilizer unit.

This car has got to give me some love.

[Tiger]

See if the Drive Away Protection info helps you here... and lots of other info.

Timm's BMW E31 8-Series Repair And Information (http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/Index.htm)

[632 Regal]

Whoaa, I lost this site a long time ago, will check this out now.

[632 Regal]

Nice to hear it run after a few months of constant dicking around with her. Well that sums it up boys and girls, she will be on thabay this evening!

Thanks to all!!!

[genphreak]

What's up Jeff? We've never seen anything beat you before- are you that chastened? She's a V12 e31 after all, only the most truly enlightened Bimmernuts' can own one!

This sounds to me like your initialisation into the fold!

The reality is, its an incredible success.

Are you serious? You're giving up, now you know how to deal with it? (Or worse, without telling us what the fix was?!?!?)

[Tiger]

So what did you do to get it running?

[632 Regal]

Out of desperation and fear of having to sell a non running car I only had 2 options left. Sell it as is or do something that just freaked me out, cutting the black/violet wires to both DME computers and still may have a non running car.

I spent a couple hours going over everything a millionth time with no new results. So I figured I would get some beer and ponder the situation a bit more and surf the net for solutions.... about half way through a case of beer I fired the shop lights up and like a highly trained surgeon on crack snipped them little fvcking wires. Still in fear of it not starting I condomplated what I had just done and had a couple more sodas.

I went back to the car and sat down, turned the key to the on position and thought I heard a strange sound that I had not heard since I jumped the fuel pump fuses. It only lasted 1 second so I couldn't really be sure that it was the pumps or the beer at the time. Moment of truth I went to crank position and the thing fired up in less than 3 seconds!!! Yep for real man! It idled and revved up and everything, just like it's supposed to. Wish I had tried this a while back when I had a buyer willing to donate 10K. At least the car has new CPS and batteries so I wont feel funny when I hand the keys over.

The immobilizer had done this 2 times in the past, first time was last winter when I had to move it, disconnected/reconnected the batteries and then it started right up. 2nd time was when I was taking pictures and my son went to move it and it wouldn't start, I tried and it started no problem so I thought nothing about it. Drove it into the garage up on ramps to do an alignment and after that was when this non start situation really manifested itself. Speaking of, I still need to check the steering wheel position tomorrow.

So that's that, what more proof do you need to prove alcohol does solve problems?

[Tiger]

Gee dude! So you got some freaking problem with immobilizer.

[632 Regal]

Yea, couldn't find any service bulletins or general information in regards so to me this was like cutting life support on information without a reason. Very spooky cutting computer wires, I wondered if I did cut them it could fry out something if the cause was something else. In my 2 month long search there was several answers, the hidden fuse and alarm, the immobilizer and the crash control system. They all are entangled together in the system and do separate things and also rely on each other to work properly. The immobilizer although claimed to be optional has been installed on every E31 that I read about.

There are seriously thousands of problems on the net with not only the BMW but VW, SAAB and others with the same situation with no known problem or cure.

At least this thread will be documented, indexed and stored for others with this problem. Did you see how many hits this thread has had since I posted it? This is a BIG problem no one addresses in the cure.

[bimmer nut]

Great job Jeff. Ya did it.

[Tiger]

If the immobiliser is optional, then you can simply remove it and no more issue. Just like I said on my 540i... the alarm will go breserk and won't disarm... the typical antennae/receiver problem... I was stuck a couple of times because of this. I simply yank out one of the wiring harness to the alarm and I was able to start and go home.

I like the remote key fob thing... but it is so unreliable at disarming the car... the E34.

[632 Regal]

If the immobiliser is optional, then you can simply remove it and no more issue. Just like I said on my 540i... the alarm will go breserk and won't disarm... the typical antennae/receiver problem... I was stuck a couple of times because of this. I simply yank out one of the wiring harness to the alarm and I was able to start and go home.

I like the remote key fob thing... but it is so unreliable at disarming the car... the E34.

Unfortunately no. The immobilizer is cut into the original German wiring and if you remove it you have to splice a bunch of wires back together. Can not simply remove or unplug it, thats why I went with the black/violet wire thing. Still never found the alarm control sensor but at this point I do not really care. Ebay bid today is up to $2024.00 man I could have used that 10.5k to help with the relocation.

Anyways, just goes to show that non documented repairs sometimes do work. Fvcking amazing results that could have happened in seconds... I wonder if this immobilizer crap was installed in the states or in Germany. That could be an interesting answer.

[632 Regal]

Ed, if it wasn't for you this would not have happened. Thank you very much for your perseverance on this Bimmer forum!

[genphreak]

Jeff I'd like to know for future reference what the symptoms were and what was verified workin.

Would you pls correct me where I'm mistaken:

You proved that you had:
- starter motor ranking the engine
- power to the coils (did you measure pulses during cranking?)
- power to the FPR (and the pumps were working during cranking)
- were the plugs dry or wet?

It seems to me the ECU was either not firing the plugs or the injectors- or both. Did you see/smell fuel? Seems a strange way to make the DWA immobilise/stop the engine running. Best of luck and thanks in advance, Nick

[632 Regal]

Jeff I'd like to know for future reference what the symptoms were and what was verified workin.

Would you pls correct me where I'm mistaken:

You proved that you had:
- starter motor ranking the engine - YES
- power to the coils (did you measure pulses during cranking?) - YES BOTH TERMINALS, DON'T KNOW HOW TO MEASURE PULSE
- power to the FPR (and the pumps were working during cranking) - ABSOLUTLY NOT
- were the plugs dry or wet? - DRY AS A BONE

It seems to me the ECU was either not firing the plugs or the injectors- or both. Did you see/smell fuel? Seems a strange way to make the DWA immobilise/stop the engine running. Best of luck and thanks in advance, Nick - AGAIN NO FUEL/NO SPARK

Geez brother, did you not read anything I posted?

[genphreak]

OK, that's better- now we can see the full deal.

A good test would have been injector pulse, (the single wire coloured that goes to each injector from the electrical tube beside the fuel rail). If it wasn't pulsing the injectors on a dry rail, you'd know the DME was preventing starting, and that the FP was another symptom of that. You telling me you spent al this time fuddling about without having fuel or checking for spark?

So the question now is whether it is the Crash Protection relay or the DWA...

[nk530]

Saw the 850 on ebay. Hope you got what you wanted out of it. I had to fight the urge to bid on it myself. (broke as a joke)
-Nate

[nk530]

HOLY CRAP! You just saved me a ton of grief! And money!

My car had been parked in the same spot for a week and a half as I was diagnosing what ended up being the same no start issue. I decided to cut the wire. It was green in my case. Pin 66. Drive-away protection system be damned! She started up without so much as a sputter. (there was actually a sputter because I had opened up the fuel lines to prove to myself that it wasn't the fuel pump, but never mind.)

Thanks! I would never had gotten it had it not been for this here thread.

[632 Regal]

Yeah no **** when it comes to this. everyone hides the fix. I just wish I knew about this 6 months ago, would have been 3-5k in my favor, right now happy to get half price on a highly maintained BMW. It's only money, and work but hope it helps in my relocation effort that I don't get any help with.

[MBXB]

Congrats, Jeff.

[bimmer nut]

Ed, if it wasn't for you this would not have happened. Thank you very much for your perseverance on this Bimmer forum!

I take full credit for fixing your car. Not!

Good job Jeff, looks like you're helping lots of others here as well.

[shogun]

to have all complete, here the EWS info
http://www.e38.org/EWS.pdf
Subject Page
Drive Away Protection........................................ ..........................................3
EWS I................................................. .................................................. ........5
EWS II................................................ .................................................. ........8
EWS III (3.2)............................................. .................................................. 16
EWS III (3.3)............................................. .................................................. 20
EWS III D (3-D)................................................ ...........................................24
Worksheets........................................ .................................................. ......27
Review Questions......................................... ..............................................30

[Rick L]

to have all complete, here the EWS info
http://www.e38.org/EWS.pdf
Subject Page
Drive Away Protection........................................ ..........................................3
EWS I................................................. .................................................. ........5
EWS II................................................ .................................................. ........8
EWS III (3.2)............................................. .................................................. 16
EWS III (3.3)............................................. .................................................. 20
EWS III D (3-D)................................................ ...........................................24
Worksheets........................................ .................................................. ......27
Review Questions......................................... ..............................................30

Thanks for the link Shogun. Since I have EWS II, key must be coded. So I guess something like this won't work?

BMW KEYLESS ENTRY & COMFORT LOCK FOR E34 5-SERIES & M5 (89-91) - 2 KEY REMOTES | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-KEYLESS-ENTRY-COMFORT-LOCK-FOR-E34-5-SERIES-M5-89-91-2-KEY-REMOTES-/251118451967?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item3a77d37cff&vxp=mtr#ht_5804wt_999)

[shogun]

I am not sure about that, ask the seller United Auto Security directly, they are one of the bigger and experienced makers and are specialized on BMW and Mercedes Benz.

[632 Regal]

Bump...

BMW no start

BMW immobilizer

No spark BMW

BMW no fuel

[mattyb]

850 or 540? thought you got rid of the 850

[632 Regal]

This thread was the 850 but I am sure it will work for any BMW with a drive away immobilizer. Just need to make sure on what particular wire you are going to cut. Just bumped the thread up for others in the same predicament as I was.

[nk530]

It worked on my 530. I never did find what was causing the immobilizer to immobilize.

[nk530]

FYI, it was a green/violet wire on my 530. I forgot the pin number on the ECU harness. 35 maybe? DEFINITELY verify on your own.