shogun
02-12-2009, 07:55 AM
Shipped by SAL US$65.00 (usually takes about 2-3 weeks for example to the U.S., non-trackable, non-insured). Alternatively shipped by registred air parcel, faster delivery,, incl. insurance, plus $10.00. Optional enforcement bush as described below: $ 8/piece. Seller is not responsible for any import duties, taxes or whatever in the country of destination. In case of registered shipment I need besides the complete shipping address also the phone number to fill out the shipping documents. In case of SAL (Sea Air Land) I only need the complete shipping address. Paypal o.k. Please contact me by PM if any interest
Steel toothed wheel, specially made to replace the worn old plastic gear, typical symptoms are rattling rear sunblind, no proper working. Used in all E32, E34, E31 and even E38 till 1996 for sure, even some till 1998, also some Benz and Audi models. Note, that is the version with HEX bolt
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/original/Zahnrad3.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/original/ZahnradHeckrolloBuchse.JPG
The enforcecement bush shown also there is optional extra.
As you know, the original one is made of a kind of plastic and the teeth get damaged over time. A single gear is not available from the dealer but only a complete gear with motor.
One possibility is this repair by Jon Evans http://evansweb.info/articles/2003/01/18/electric-rear-blind-repair
The other one is to buy an expensive complete replacement from the dealer. > $200
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/Zahnrad2.jpg
our way of doing it
remove rear seats and arm rest. bow rear shelf and move forward. drive blind up until about 4 cm above shelf - cut power. disconnect 4 pin plug on passenger side and take shelf out of car. remove L&R end plugs on the moving top rail - small phillips driver. remove 6 10 mm nuts holding aluminum rail/assembly to shelf. move rail/assembly forward to release 3 clips. pull extended blind through the shelf to completely free rail/assembly. # there are likely to be some flat spacers (washers) on some the six bolts - make a note of where each goes -- some sticky tape would stop them from falling off. disconnect motor plug from controller. with 3 mm allen key remove small countersunk bolt holding the circular plate to the gearbox. use flat screwdriver to remove circular plate from driving peg of gearbox.
# note the orientation of the arms to the plate. mark the positions of the 3 phillips bolts holding the motor-gearbox to the rail. remove the 3 phillips bolts. remove the three 4 mm torque bolts holding cover to gearbox. remove cover of gearbox. while pushing down on the main gear, remove the fiber transfer gear. -- careful, the axle of this gear can fall out. the main gear should jump anticlockwise about 10-15 degrees. while pushing down on the main gear, remove the end bolt from the end of the gearbox. http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/END%20BOLT.jpg
the main gear should jump anticlockwise about 120 degrees. lift out the main gear. turn the main gear over and remove the spring. put the spring into the new main gear making sure that the outer end of the spring engages on the stud use a marking pen to indicate the region of full height gear teeth. turn the new main gear over and replace in the gearbox after lightly greasing the teeth. the inner end of the spring must fit into the gap in the post of the gearbox -- can be difficult to get it in. while pushing down on the main gear, use a crescent wrench on the driving peg to turn the main gear clockwise about 140 degrees - check the markings to make sure that the full height gear teeth region is clear of the end bolt. reinstall the end bolt and slowly release the pressure on the wrench. the main gear should rotate anticlockwise until the full height gear teeth region hits the bolt. insert the axle of the transfer gear into its socket in the gearbox. install transfer gear onto axle and push until it mates with both the main gear and the worm gear on the motor. reinstall gearbox cover it does not fit down completely just yet. install the end bolt at the end of the cover - should be fairly loose. with small pickle fork or similar, push down on the transfer gear axle until it enters its socket on gearbox cover -- can be difficult. push from the motor towards the axle of the main gear. http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/transfer%20axle.jpg
if you're lucky the axle will slip in and you can squeeze the cover completely flat. reinstall the other bolts and tighten all of them.remount the motor-gearbox onto the rail and hold loosely with one bolt.
put rail/assembly back into the car and reconnect the 4 pin blind connector. drive the motor by switching "blind up" so that the driving peg rotates about 15 degrees -- disconnect the motor connector to keep this rotation. remount the circular plate onto the driving peg -- the blind should be extended by a few cm.reinstall the countersunk bolt and the other bolts holding the motor to the rail -- make sure that the motor is in original position. insert the blind through the shelf, reengage the three clips, and reinstall the 6 nuts. you did remember to keep the spacer washers in the right places? reinstall the two end plugs on the top rail. reconnect the motor to the controller. reconnect the 4 pin plug and check that the blind moves over its full range. remount the shelf and reinstall the seats etc. more pics
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020780.jpg old damaged one http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020785.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020782.jpg http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020786.jpg http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/TRANSFERGEAR.jpg http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/UPSIDEDOWN.jpg
These gears were installed in following models
E31, E34, E32 DRIVE 51461388215 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GC83&mospid=47365&btnr=51_2865&hg=51&fg=60
plus some early E38 models (pls check) and some Audi and Mercedes Benz Models.
more pics,sunblind complete http://s196162468.online.de/Rollo/IMG_0967.JPG
motor with gear http://s196162468.online.de/Rollo/IMG_0969.JPG http://s196162468.online.de/Rollo/IMG_0970.JPG
remove the 2 screws to detach the motor with gear ,mark the position of the hex nut ,remove screws and cover from gear, hold with an open wrench the screw/toothed gear to get the small imbus screws at the one sid out which holds the spring Also mark this position with a marker pen on the ol gear, so that you know how to position the new gear and how the spring has to be pre-tensioned
DO NOT FORGET to change the center pin from the old one to the new one!
insert toothed gear and tension it with open wrench so that the large boring is in the same position as the old one was
Install the cover again and check the marking you made before on the old one
video how it works, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phvYM9uTdjg
https://www.directupload.net/file/d/5622/65l9bcp5_jpg.htm
how to on E31 https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.145109668887065.31787.129201817144517&type=1
copy this instruction, German lnguage, copy the text and google translate http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/daten/heckrollo/einbauanleitung_fuer_zahnrad.pdf
If you are interested, please contact me by PM, Paypal o.k., I will ship it cheapest way by SAL to save cost for you.
Steel toothed wheel, specially made to replace the worn old plastic gear, typical symptoms are rattling rear sunblind, no proper working. Used in all E32, E34, E31 and even E38 till 1996 for sure, even some till 1998, also some Benz and Audi models. Note, that is the version with HEX bolt
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/original/Zahnrad3.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/original/ZahnradHeckrolloBuchse.JPG
The enforcecement bush shown also there is optional extra.
As you know, the original one is made of a kind of plastic and the teeth get damaged over time. A single gear is not available from the dealer but only a complete gear with motor.
One possibility is this repair by Jon Evans http://evansweb.info/articles/2003/01/18/electric-rear-blind-repair
The other one is to buy an expensive complete replacement from the dealer. > $200
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/Zahnrad2.jpg
our way of doing it
remove rear seats and arm rest. bow rear shelf and move forward. drive blind up until about 4 cm above shelf - cut power. disconnect 4 pin plug on passenger side and take shelf out of car. remove L&R end plugs on the moving top rail - small phillips driver. remove 6 10 mm nuts holding aluminum rail/assembly to shelf. move rail/assembly forward to release 3 clips. pull extended blind through the shelf to completely free rail/assembly. # there are likely to be some flat spacers (washers) on some the six bolts - make a note of where each goes -- some sticky tape would stop them from falling off. disconnect motor plug from controller. with 3 mm allen key remove small countersunk bolt holding the circular plate to the gearbox. use flat screwdriver to remove circular plate from driving peg of gearbox.
# note the orientation of the arms to the plate. mark the positions of the 3 phillips bolts holding the motor-gearbox to the rail. remove the 3 phillips bolts. remove the three 4 mm torque bolts holding cover to gearbox. remove cover of gearbox. while pushing down on the main gear, remove the fiber transfer gear. -- careful, the axle of this gear can fall out. the main gear should jump anticlockwise about 10-15 degrees. while pushing down on the main gear, remove the end bolt from the end of the gearbox. http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/END%20BOLT.jpg
the main gear should jump anticlockwise about 120 degrees. lift out the main gear. turn the main gear over and remove the spring. put the spring into the new main gear making sure that the outer end of the spring engages on the stud use a marking pen to indicate the region of full height gear teeth. turn the new main gear over and replace in the gearbox after lightly greasing the teeth. the inner end of the spring must fit into the gap in the post of the gearbox -- can be difficult to get it in. while pushing down on the main gear, use a crescent wrench on the driving peg to turn the main gear clockwise about 140 degrees - check the markings to make sure that the full height gear teeth region is clear of the end bolt. reinstall the end bolt and slowly release the pressure on the wrench. the main gear should rotate anticlockwise until the full height gear teeth region hits the bolt. insert the axle of the transfer gear into its socket in the gearbox. install transfer gear onto axle and push until it mates with both the main gear and the worm gear on the motor. reinstall gearbox cover it does not fit down completely just yet. install the end bolt at the end of the cover - should be fairly loose. with small pickle fork or similar, push down on the transfer gear axle until it enters its socket on gearbox cover -- can be difficult. push from the motor towards the axle of the main gear. http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/transfer%20axle.jpg
if you're lucky the axle will slip in and you can squeeze the cover completely flat. reinstall the other bolts and tighten all of them.remount the motor-gearbox onto the rail and hold loosely with one bolt.
put rail/assembly back into the car and reconnect the 4 pin blind connector. drive the motor by switching "blind up" so that the driving peg rotates about 15 degrees -- disconnect the motor connector to keep this rotation. remount the circular plate onto the driving peg -- the blind should be extended by a few cm.reinstall the countersunk bolt and the other bolts holding the motor to the rail -- make sure that the motor is in original position. insert the blind through the shelf, reengage the three clips, and reinstall the 6 nuts. you did remember to keep the spacer washers in the right places? reinstall the two end plugs on the top rail. reconnect the motor to the controller. reconnect the 4 pin plug and check that the blind moves over its full range. remount the shelf and reinstall the seats etc. more pics
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020780.jpg old damaged one http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020785.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020782.jpg http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/take/P1020786.jpg http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/TRANSFERGEAR.jpg http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hairywithit/UPSIDEDOWN.jpg
These gears were installed in following models
E31, E34, E32 DRIVE 51461388215 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GC83&mospid=47365&btnr=51_2865&hg=51&fg=60
plus some early E38 models (pls check) and some Audi and Mercedes Benz Models.
more pics,sunblind complete http://s196162468.online.de/Rollo/IMG_0967.JPG
motor with gear http://s196162468.online.de/Rollo/IMG_0969.JPG http://s196162468.online.de/Rollo/IMG_0970.JPG
remove the 2 screws to detach the motor with gear ,mark the position of the hex nut ,remove screws and cover from gear, hold with an open wrench the screw/toothed gear to get the small imbus screws at the one sid out which holds the spring Also mark this position with a marker pen on the ol gear, so that you know how to position the new gear and how the spring has to be pre-tensioned
DO NOT FORGET to change the center pin from the old one to the new one!
insert toothed gear and tension it with open wrench so that the large boring is in the same position as the old one was
Install the cover again and check the marking you made before on the old one
video how it works, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phvYM9uTdjg
https://www.directupload.net/file/d/5622/65l9bcp5_jpg.htm
how to on E31 https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.145109668887065.31787.129201817144517&type=1
copy this instruction, German lnguage, copy the text and google translate http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/daten/heckrollo/einbauanleitung_fuer_zahnrad.pdf
If you are interested, please contact me by PM, Paypal o.k., I will ship it cheapest way by SAL to save cost for you.