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View Full Version : 89' 325ic hesitation at times + my mods



Daniel
05-31-2004, 04:05 AM
first of all, i modified my Bimmer with le rear windshield/wind/vortex-cancelor. and this was done with less than a 30(thiry) U.S.dollar investiment.

i can give out the details in a private email to anyone who wishes . and this appears to any non-bimmer-maniac to be"stock" finnish mateirial, however you must concede to at least 8 hours of actual work with the following matierials,
1. glue (a basic wood / foam / fabric glue..."elmers:"
2. foam board, so cheap so fun
3. safety hazards, and crash demos ive been able to utilize...
4. not getting messy or ruining your stock bimmer at all, and be able to sell it at a better than stock price, yet with the top dowm why would you ever sell this machine..? please really tell me why youve ever sold your bimmer ?

and my problemsa are as follows, im new to the bimmer machine so i need help

my little joy ride is driving fine, but at START-UP it can start yes, but has a hesitation going on. once in a while...
driveing at CRUISE speeds, i HESITATE, its sooooo far and in-between and its getting less and more infrequent.

i just bought it and i still need the REAR-SPOILER so if you know where these handy little items are, ive looked everywhere online and in the local junk yards but to n0=evail.
please help me .

ive made this regular bimmer a very interisteng ride, im going to paint it, any ideas (or for that matter does, and donts?) because ive never been able to afford to have my car painted.

all help will be most appreciated.
Daniel

Unregistered
06-04-2004, 09:50 AM
I have an 88 and had a similar problem, a minor hesitation at low rpm's once in a while got gradually worse until it would stall at least once every day. I changed the ecm, the crank position sensor, the spark plugs, the fuel pump relay, the TPS, the distributo cap and rotor, the plug wires. My friend the BMW mechanic said it couldn't be the coil because he tested it and said it was fine. Well guess what after swapping out all those parts I changed the coil and the problem is gone... spent almost $2000 in parts and the problem was a $50 coil.

RickyJ
06-11-2004, 12:57 PM
maybe yours was too!

fporro
06-19-2004, 08:57 PM
bad TPS or very dirty icv.
my 87 325ic was hesitating between 3500 to 4K, then taking off like a bat out of hell, she would rock and flatout, then started to actualy die-out during idle.
problem was my # 153 ecu was burningout little by little.
replaced it with a # 173 and it's been great.

Unregistered
07-17-2004, 08:42 PM
Check list from the less expensive to the more. Start by pouring some injector cleaner in at least two tanks of fuel.

Air intake leak:
A leak in the intake or vacuum leaks (check the dipsick o-ring seal and oil filter seal) will make your car idle roughly.

Valve setting:
If you didn't adjust your valve lately, check your valve adjustments.

Spark plugs:
Old spark plugs will make your car idle and run rough. Change them, good time to try those expensive Bosch platinum +4. Some owner use a slightly greater clearance: set them slightly larger to 0.86-0.91mm (0.034-0.036in) to help improve the idle with the stock plugs.

Distributor cap and rotor:
After a lot of miles (or km) your rotor and cap will be sad looking or cracked, check for yourself.

Ignition wires:
Check the ignition wire resistance with a multi-meter, it should be around 0 Ohm.

Idle Control Valve (ICV):
This expensive part gets dirty. You should clean it (along with the throttle body) each time you adjust your valves with carburator cleaner. If there is no improvement and your ICV had never been changed (there is sometimes a year stamped onto the casting), change it.

Other considerations are: leaking injector, faulty temperature sensor, faulty oxygen sensor, check all electrical connections.