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632 Regal
11-29-2006, 10:05 PM
the pressure regulater was sticky as fuk, took me over 2 hours to get it free..this includes removing the pump and cleaning dino junk from it. Had to completely remove it. Still took hours to clean the regulator valve bore. 4 hours total to get it road worthy.

Dino has no place in this or any other engine.

Brandon J
11-30-2006, 10:55 PM
Wow, talk about sludge. As far as oil goes, the banjo bolts are a very good idea to check and you will have to change the intake manifold gaskets which are prone to leaks. So, that is a plus.

Then check the front chain tensioner as this is a common area for small leaks. Of course valve cover gaskets also leak. Otherwise, use good oil and nothing too thin. Remember it is a M20 based engine. Do you have any performance chips in it yet? They make very good power improvements in the M70.

Okay, I am done with oil.

ryan roopnarine
12-01-2006, 08:45 AM
the pressure regulater was sticky as fuk, took me over 2 hours to get it free..this includes removing the pump and cleaning dino junk from it. Had to completely remove it. Still took hours to clean the regulator valve bore. 4 hours total to get it road worthy.

Dino has no place in this or any other engine.

no pics? they have a parts kit to rebuild the oil pump in your car?

Ross
12-01-2006, 07:55 PM
Hope it's a-okay now. This is why ebay scares the crap out of me.
Phone the ****er and let him know it's fixed on the cheap.Hopefully you will have the last laugh.

632 Regal
12-02-2006, 12:16 PM
I'm not too worried about it, winters close and that will give me plenty of time to go through it. The car is still worth the price even if it didn't run...lol




Hope it's a-okay now. This is why ebay scares the crap out of me.
Phone the ****er and let him know it's fixed on the cheap.Hopefully you will have the last laugh.

632 Regal
12-02-2006, 12:20 PM
I was thinking M1 0w40. Reading at e31club some have tried thick stuff and it made lifter click worse (mine dont click). I am going to tap the sending unit and see what the pressure is actually at. I'm going to most likely check out the upper end and loctite the banjo's while I'm at it too.

Cant wait to see how clean that area is :(


Wow, talk about sludge. As far as oil goes, the banjo bolts are a very good idea to check and you will have to change the intake manifold gaskets which are prone to leaks. So, that is a plus.

Then check the front chain tensioner as this is a common area for small leaks. Of course valve cover gaskets also leak. Otherwise, use good oil and nothing too thin. Remember it is a M20 based engine. Do you have any performance chips in it yet? They make very good power improvements in the M70.

Okay, I am done with oil.

ryan roopnarine
12-03-2006, 06:40 AM
seriously clown,

when you mean "rebuild", do you mean clean the thing out, or was there a replacement parts kit for your oil pump. i have to do a oil pan gasket soon and would like to rebuild mine rather than buying a new one, if possible.

Spasso
12-04-2006, 01:24 AM
I was thinking M1 0w40. Reading at e31club some have tried thick stuff and it made lifter click worse (mine dont click). I am going to tap the sending unit and see what the pressure is actually at. I'm going to most likely check out the upper end and loctite the banjo's while I'm at it too.

Cant wait to see how clean that area is :(

When choosing oil, use the smallest "low number" you want but NEVER lower the upper number. I have an engine that requires 10w50. Someone suggetsted 10w30, a very common/popular weight. No way. My engine is not designed for that.

The engineering, internal clearances, parts expansion and circulation were set up to REQUIRE a certain weight oil over a certain range of tempuratures. I have to use 20w50 in lieu of 10w50 because I can't get 10w50 anywhere. On cold days I block the oil cooler inlet and watch the oil temp to make sure it's where it should be..

If your manual calls out a lower weight oil like 10w40 great, use 0w40 if you want, it's good for cold weather circulation but you NEED that 40 weight for high temp areas around the valve stems.

632 Regal
12-04-2006, 01:31 PM
I didnt take any pics, didnt think it would be that crusty at the relief valve. The internal parts actually looked like new, no gaskets to replace either. Disassemble, scrape, brush, reassemble with loctite, done.


no pics? they have a parts kit to rebuild the oil pump in your car?

grave77
12-11-2006, 11:24 PM
you got me the creeps !! mine sound ticking and I wonder if I got the same mess down there, but wouldn't a high pressure engine flush fix some of this problem? I did that when I swapped the engine, the machine pumps cleaninig fluid from the oil filter while the engine is off and sucks it out from the pan and filter the mess in an external filter. I guess it does that in 2 directions. if that was true it should help fixing this mess.

632 Regal
12-12-2006, 05:53 AM
ticking could be mechanical, incorrect oil or a pressure leak from the pump or banjo bolts. once I wake up Ill follow your other posts

grave77
12-12-2006, 06:35 AM
oh I wasn't wrong then, your still asleep ... I wish I would dream like that :P ... have you installed the chips yet?

632 Regal
12-12-2006, 10:46 AM
yes, the chips were the first thing I did on the car. Once I have a little time I'll put the new front end on...I hate clunks.

grave77
12-12-2006, 08:47 PM
cool ... how was the chips at low RPM? any difference you can tell here? I'm anxious to know.

632 Regal
12-13-2006, 03:58 AM
you got the supposed bogus chips from that dude that copied the ones I got. Did you get the 3rd chip for the top end limiter too?

at first the idle was all fukt up, I had to sync the steppers and then the idle is much better, cant balance a coin on the engine yet but havent got to that part. Havent even put the oil pan back on to see what real oil runs like in there.


cool ... how was the chips at low RPM? any difference you can tell here? I'm anxious to know.

grave77
12-13-2006, 02:24 PM
until now I haven't bought anything ... I just want to decide which chip to get, as we were chatting on line, I still need to identify my engine's ID ( compression ratio ) maybe I will need M experts to hint me some tips to know how.

I was wondering what RON your filling in ur car? maybe that affects the idle.

I get rough idle ( hiccuped idle ) when I drive in the traffic jams ... feels like HT wires are leaking or maybe something else. but usually it idles really smooth. a coin wont move.

632 Regal
12-13-2006, 03:46 PM
[qsince the car came with a full tank I would assume its the lowest octane available. Once it runs out Ill put in the best and see from there. Probably spring time.

grave77
12-13-2006, 09:10 PM
seems that you only drove few miles around ... dude you gotta enjoy it by driving it more ... it wont harm her, I guess 8 series hates to stay in the garage and it's one of the reasons of maintenance for most of them cuz they've been stopping for long.

632 Regal
12-13-2006, 09:52 PM
I have a battery tender keeping her warm, I will not take it out on muddy roads. the suspension is first on the list after replacing the oilpan.

grave77
12-13-2006, 10:49 PM
suspension is what am suffering from !! ... the front wheels design with all BMW cars is a headache !!

632 Regal
12-16-2006, 11:52 PM
I fear the entire engine is as un cared for as the oil. added oil into a dirty world, its caked with dino sludge sediments...not happy.

goint to open it up and do valve seals for the hell of it and hopefully clean what I can up there.