View Full Version : 1989 735iL Questions/Problems

10-16-2005, 01:00 PM
Hey all, so I finally picked up my new ride, couple of minor things I just need to get fixed quickly so they will stop bugging me.

Sixth, when I am stopping or turning a corner, I hear what seems to be a pump, and grinding of the brakes, although sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Is the suspension leveling system on all 4 corners or just the rears? Would I be hearing the pump go on when I turn corners going down hills or up hills trying to level the car or am I hearing something else?

Seventh, when I am driving, sometimes my AntiLock braking light comes on, sometimes not, is it just telling me that it is activiating it or does this mean there is a problem with the whole system? It flashes once, then goes on, sometimes the whole trip, sometimes just for 30 seconds.

FIXED First, Brake Lining sensor in the front was gone, new one put on for 9.20 and bingo, all is well.
FIXED Second, Mustard Relay seemed to be the issue. Thanks shogun.
FIXED Third, God damn it ate over 8 litres of bug wash!!!!!!
FIXED Fourth, Just topped up the coolant. Its the green stuff though :(, might do a whole flush next spring and put the blue stuff back in.
FIXED Fifth, Adjusted that leveling device and put 3 buddies in the back seat and me on the trunk, didn't get the warning so it looks good, also looks like its sitting higher now so looking good so far.

10-16-2005, 08:42 PM
1. change sensors now. If you do not, you do not know if you just brake on the iron to iron and no brake material is left. For your own safety.

2. Common problem. Do a search for LKM resoldering, CCM resoldering, mustard relay resoldering. A lot of info. For example on my website under e32fixes.com.
Brake light: also check the brake switch under the brake pedal. Repair info on Gale's page on my website.

3. Open the lid and use a flashlight to see inside the level switch. The lower part of the level switch should float and have contact. If it hands down, there is water in the float and you have to replace it. That is the usual prob. Or the wires are broken. But that you can easily check: just bridge the 2 connectors for the sensor and the alarm should go away.
For suppliers search for BMW online vendor list on search on top of this page.

4. either coolant level too low or see item 3. Sensor.
Do a search here for online spare parts catalog or online ETK. There input your VIN and you will find where the sensor is located.
Bookmark that page.

5. See my website under EDC/Niveauregulierung and thereunder adjustment of ride level. Maybe just the ride height has to be adjusted.

6.LAD is only at the rear. The pump works always, as it is a dual pump which also works for the power steering. You will hear nothing on the LAD function and adjustment.
Check all sus parts and the brake pads. See un my page under Bruno's page, section suspension.

7. Check the sensors if they are clean on the wheels. What is the battery voltage and the charging voltage? If that goes for 90 seconds under 11.6V, you will get such fault warning.
Take you time and read thru my website. The mainpage is German, but most of the links are English language.

10-16-2005, 11:07 PM
Ok thanks, looking up that info right now.

One question, is BMW coolant special compared to the normal green **** I buy? Or are they the same stuff?

For 6 we were thinking wheel bearings possibly so when I take the wheels off for those sensors I will check the bearings.

For 7, the AntiLock sensors, Brake lining sensors, I can change those when I do my new brake setup this winter right? Thats if the Antilock one is dirty?

I plan on doing Brembo Slotted/Drilled Discs *more for look but performance aswell*, Harder pads then whateevr I have now so they don't dust up my new wheels in the spring, new brake fluid, stainless steel lines if not already, and possibly new calipers, stoptech or something new, not rebuilt. I will be doing the brake pad lining sensors then and maybe those antilock sensors aswell. Would that work?

10-17-2005, 12:20 AM
Sweet the Mustard relay seemed to be the problem, alot of the tents and caps were cracked so I soldered them back up and threw it in and tried it out, no problems so far, will know tomorrow when i drive it around some more.

One down, bunch more to go.

10-17-2005, 03:51 AM
BMW Coolant is NAP (nitrate, ammonia, phosphate)-free.

I just copy for you some old posts on coolant:

Do NOT run the Orange extended life Dexcool tradename or facsimile coolant in your BMW. Unless you purge all the existing Ethelyne Glycol based coolant from your system which isn't easy to do....the Orange based extended life coolant with chemically react and sludge over time and ruin your cooling system. The closest Ethelyne Glycol based low phosphate low silicate coolant out there is Zerox G-05...what I run. The BMW coolant which is preferred but pricey is really Zerox G-48 and only available outside BMW distributors in bulk. Either go with the Zerox G-05 or stick with the BMW blue coolant.
use ZEREX long life (VAVOLINE Max Life) in my 1988 750. ZEREX G35 is the BMW european coolant.
On the coolant issue I would run only the bmw
coolant if I were you. Its a small price to pay for as long as it lasts... And the bmw coolant does contain silicates, evidently they feel that the silicates are necessary to preven erosion of the aluminum surfaces and I would imagine head gaskets as well. The prestone extended life contains no silicates . I have been putting the prestone extended life in various customers cars for about the last 5 years. I'm not terribly impressed with it. It seems to find leaks that didn't exist before.
the BMW blue is theoretically spec'ed by BMW to be compatible with cylinder head and/or block aluminum alloys and chosen composite gasket material in terms of silicates,
phosphate content etc. For the best insurance, use the BMW coolant...maximizes head gasket life..no pitting or corrosion to the
cylinder head etc. Me..though not precisely the same chemistry as
BMW blue.which is Zerex G-48 coolant only available in bulk outside BMW dealerships, I use Zerex G-05 which is close in specification to G-48 and approved for Mercedes..but not for BMW.
The critical issue is dump your coolant every two years and replenish with fresh fluid to liberate acidity/contaminants.
I strongly advise against using Dexcool in a BMW.
Part Number Description
82 14 1 467 704 Antifreeze - 1 Gallon - Genuine BMW

For 7: probably you can wait till you change and then you can check again.

I use the original coolant from/for BMW only. Some more info here


10-17-2005, 08:05 AM
Cool thanks.

10-18-2005, 12:28 PM
What does the AntiLock sensor look like? I think it might be the sensor thats making all my problems come up besdies the brake linings light, Hopefully notthough.

10-18-2005, 07:26 PM
Remove the left wheel and see for the cables of the ABS system and follow the lines, then you will find it and the counterpart.
It could also be that the wires are broken and therefore making trouble.
Do you have a Bentley Repair Manual? That is a must have item if you want to DIY.
All is mentioned there. Has about 1000 pages with detailed drawings and wiring diagrams. Will cost around 80 $ but worth every cent.
I have used the search on roadfly and typed in ABS sensor, please read all the postings
Use the search here and on roadfly by typing in catch words, and you will find very good info.
Almost all problems have been covered.
Also see on my website close to the bottom under ABS faults the link.

10-18-2005, 07:28 PM
Thanks again master :)

Getting all these problems solved is making for a much more peaceful non-dinging ride :)

10-18-2005, 07:34 PM
Oh about the Bently Manual, I plan on getting one but just blew a bunch of money on the car, workout stuff, insurance, gas, paying bills off. So depending on the next couple of days, I may be without a Manual for awhile, I need to get a job again.

10-18-2005, 10:17 PM
Understand the situation about the money. Hope you get a job soon.
Maybe one possibility is here in the link, there were some downloads for the E34 manual. E34 is close to the E32 and many parts are identical and interchangeable. Try if one of the links is still working and download on a CD

Also use the search engine again with "Bentley Repair Manual" if you need more info.
Anyway, on my page there is a lot, wiring diagrams, and also the electric trouble shooting manual with some hundred pages.

Good Luck

10-18-2005, 10:18 PM
Thanks :)

10-19-2005, 12:52 PM
One question, how do I check which brake sensors need to be changed? Or Do I replace them w/ the pads, so if all pads replaced then all brake lining sensors replaced?


10-19-2005, 08:40 PM
Basic rule: if you get the brake pad warning, the sensors have reacted = damaged.
I would replace them all to avoid this problem. They cost at Autohaus Arizona
only 3.65 $/piece.

10-20-2005, 08:03 PM
Well ordered my new brake lining sensors today, $9.20 or something a piece, I got $25 store credit too so it won't be too bad :)

Now I need to figure out how to install them and I'll check my bearings tomorrow and hopefully find whatever that noise is.

10-22-2005, 09:17 PM
Damn the brake sensors where easy, but in the process we found a small coolant leak :(

Is there a common leak on 3.5l's that I should be checking first? It doesn't seem to be alot as not alot of fluid or spraying but its still a good enough level to throw the coolant warning lights on so I got to get that fixed once I find it.

10-23-2005, 01:36 AM
Main places: left side at the radiator the plastic hose breaks, under the water pump, remove the plastic cover from the heater valves, look at the connections there, then the aux water pump under the heater valves. If it breaks, ussually it cracks at the bottom where the motor is inside.
Use a small mirror (the cheap one you can buy in a drug store for dental care and attach a long wire to see inside), a good one for car repairs is one with telescope handle for about 2-3 ". I have one with flex wire arm which I can bend and have attached a small LED light which is very handy. Any car accessory shop has it. When you are in there buy also a small magent with telescope arm, comes handy when you loose screws in engine room and cannot reach them.

If you have in your car the standard BMW coolant, you can easily see in the engine room where it spills. Look for green or blue marks there. If it is under the hood, then it comes from the water pump and the fan spills it around.
Have a look here for the typical probs, I showed on another board

10-23-2005, 12:58 PM
Yah I got an extendable magnet, not a mirror though.

I really hope it isn't a waterpump, don't have the money or time to fix it right now :(

10-23-2005, 08:37 PM
If it is the water pump or the heater valves which are leaking:
Due to your present financial stress you can make a cheap solution.
Buy in the next hardware store the cheapest garden water valves of a similar size and install them instead of the electric heater valves. You just have to fix the valves manually depending on the outside temperatures.
The aux water pump you can eliminate completely with a hose connection.
It is just to ensure always that hot water runs thru the heating system, no matter if car is on idle. You just will feel the difference in heat coming from the heater when driving at high revs or when car at idle. = water pump at idle=low how water circulation=less in the cabon.
I know some people who drive with manual water valves for some years already.

10-23-2005, 08:40 PM
Well for my bday I got some nice work gloves cause I ruined my last set so I can grab my cold metal and hopefully figure out what is wrong tomorrow or so. Thanks for the help shogun.

10-24-2005, 02:12 PM
Well I was topping it up and sqeezing the top hose to get the air out of the system and I heard it dripping so I decided to look. Its dripping off the front right sway bar bushing it looks like. Coming off the frame somewhere.

What kind of coolant hoses/pumps are back in that part of the engine. The car is on a slight stance so it may be on the middle right side aswell.

I'm goign to jack up to see if I can see anymore but I don't think my jacks will go high enough for me to get a good view of it, will have to wait for a hoist.

10-24-2005, 09:38 PM

To look in every corner, take a small mirror with extension. Tape one on a flexible plastic pin or iron wire. That helps.
To look what parts are in that area, use the online parts catalog with explosion views when you click on the drawings
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?PHPSESSID=2f576ced29477680ec938848d4d39e a1
Type in your VIN and then you have exactly your car configuration.

An old trick is also: use some white flower meal and 'dust' it on the hoses and connections after you dried/cleaned everything up. After some time you can see easily where the leakage is.

10-25-2005, 01:18 AM
You asked on E32underground for steering adjustment info. Here it is

10-25-2005, 01:39 AM
Thanks buddy :), Your mr info center, you should put all the links you have on one site.

10-25-2005, 03:32 AM
All the links on one site:

look at my website below and you find them all.

10-25-2005, 10:20 AM
I looked and couldn't find the steering one, unless the titles in german then i would be lost.

10-25-2005, 10:32 AM
The steering one is further above the link. If you need a fix of the steering box, that is further explained on the website from Bruno, link on my page.
Just take you time and look thru all my links. There is a lot.
And you will get familiar with the links and know in future where to find what.
Even look at the German language links. No need to understand the language, the pics are important. And if you need a translation, use altavista.babelfish program online.

10-25-2005, 12:19 PM
Ture, thanks again :)

10-25-2005, 11:50 PM
Ok not good, sometimes the engine coolant literally pours out of the car, there is a streak of coolant in my block from my driveway to the exit, and at my buddies house up his block aswell.

What normally goes on these things that pours that much coolant out?

I'm hoping to get it up on the hoist tomorrow to get a look at it, hopefully I don't run ou tof distilled water by then and it will be an easy fix, hopefully.

10-26-2005, 03:24 PM
OK looks like it is comign from behind the belts and pullys, and dripping all over the place when I drive I guess. I am going to assume its the waterpump in there? How long/much $ is this going to cost to replace myself or service place?

10-27-2005, 08:36 AM
They'll do that when they go bad, and the source of your leak is where the pump is located. I think on your motor (I've got the V12) you won't have to pull rad to r&r the water pump, but you will have to get the fan and all belts out of the way. Good time to check belts and pully tensioners - you'll know what they are when you see 'em. Check eBay, Vines Auto, or other searches for used parts. If you can, get new, but they aren't cheap, your biggest savings comes from doing your own wrenching. Good Luck!

10-27-2005, 08:53 AM
Yah I know about belts and tensioners and domestic water pumps, I'm still trying to figure ou twhere exactly this basterd is leaking from so I can get the parts on order today or tomorrow so my weekend project is actually useful.

10-27-2005, 09:16 AM
Here, link from my website

10-27-2005, 09:26 AM
Sounds like the symptoms, going to double check today hopefully.

10-27-2005, 12:03 PM
Gee, Shogun, wish ours were that easy! Well, off to get some Hylomar (you know what I'm about to do - I'll let you know if my very slightly rough idle improves)